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[RoadDawg]

I love the low end torque my 255 cams produce. I want more low end torque, but I also want more horse power along with it. Wood 777 cams seem like the right choice. Have had Wood cams before and really liked them. If I go with the 777 cams, what other engine modifications would be required? Compression? Lifters, pistons, push rods, etc.? I am a dummy when it comes to this stuff.

[HD Street Performance]

You will be hard pressed to produce more torque off idle to 2500 or so with any other grind other than the stock cam. The TTS 100 may be equal in that range but will pull a little harder on top, not much. After that you open your checkbook and go for it with all the items you described. There are some other bolt-in cams that will provide quite a bit more power such as the 777 but at the expense of a loss of low end torque with an otherwise stock motor. Compression is what needs to be increased to recapture some of the low end. If you ride aggressively and keep the Rs up it should not be much of an issue. Keep in mind the top end rocker covers and supports need to be disassembled to change any cam unless the pushrods are cut out and adjustable pushrods, easy install variety such as Screaming Eagle 18404-08 tapers, are used. Some cams due to a reduced base circle are not "bolt-in" and can't use the stock length pushrods anyway so adjustables are the prefered part there too. I would use adjustables on any cam swap to be able to properly set the lifter preload.

[RoadDawg]

You will be hard pressed to produce more torque off idle to 2500 or so with any other grind other than the stock cam. The TTS 100 may be equal in that range but will pull a little harder on top, not much. After that you open your checkbook and go for it with all the items you described. There are some other bolt-in cams that will provide quite a bit more power such as the 777 but at the expense of a loss of low end torque with an otherwise stock motor. Compression is what needs to be increased to recapture some of the low end. If you ride aggressively and keep the Rs up it should not be much of an issue. Keep in mind the top end rocker covers and supports need to be disassembled to change any cam unless the pushrods are cut out and adjustable pushrods, easy install variety such as Screaming Eagle 18404-08 tapers, are used. Some cams due to a reduced base circle are not "bolt-in" and can't use the stock length pushrods anyway so adjustables are the preferred part there too. I would use adjustables on any cam swap to be able to properly set the lifter preload.

Thanks for the explanation. If I go with all the engine mods that are needed for a more aggressive cam setup (compression boost, etc.,) will engine longevity be an issue? I don't want to race anyone, just enjoy the power, especially down low.

[HD Street Performance]

I think you would be best served to get a good pipe and a proper tune and call it quits if low end is your primary goal. We usually ride between 2-3K rpm and in that range it is hard to beat the stock cam. By the way I assume you have found like all of us that the CVO 110 has a noisy valve train. The SE255 is a contributor but not the sole source.

[GRam]

I was recommended the S&S 583 for stock piston/head etc drop in cam.
Bought a set, had ago unrelated failure, and went a different direction, so have a set of new in box cams if you wanted
to research them. If you think they might be for you, I'd make you a good deal.
G.

[RoadDawg]

I think you would be best served to get a good pipe and a proper tune and call it quits if low end is your primary goal. We usually ride between 2-3K rpm and in that range it is hard to beat the stock cam. By the way I assume you have found like all of us that the CVO 110 has a noisy valve train. The SE255 is a contributor but not the sole source.

I think I'll take your advice and save myself some money. Thank you. I have had a dyno tune and have Bassani pipes. Torque is 107