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[trippy]

Hi Guys,
Have just had an engine rebuild due to crank run-out, also gone from 110 to 113 due to piston slap, engine back in frame, but have forgotten to flush out the old oil from the sump, is there a way to flush out the old contaminated oil with out it going through the engine first, will be changing oil after first 50 miles, but would prefer not allow the old oil through the newly refurbed engine.
Ride safe.

[grc]

You can drain much of the oil left in the sump by removing the plug on the bottom of the engine (the one that is not normally removed).  But I'm not sure how you can easily run additional clean oil through the sump.  There's bound to be a way, I just can't think of it at the moment.

Btw, did you flush the oil pan/tank, oil cooler, and oil lines?  They should all be flushed.

Jerry

[trippy]

Hi Jerry
Thanks for that, yes have flushed the oil lines and cooler, as you say there must be a way to do it, I do have the oil scavenger oil change system, so I think I will contact them to see if that will do the job.
Many thanks, Ride Safe.

[johnsachs]

You can drain much of the oil left in the sump by removing the plug on the bottom of the engine (the one that is not normally removed).  But I'm not sure how you can easily run additional clean oil through the sump.  There's bound to be a way, I just can't think of it at the moment.

Btw, did you flush the oil pan/tank, oil cooler, and oil lines?  They should all be flushed.

Jerry

A word of caution here.
If that plug, that Jerry mentions, has never been removed before, don't try to force it (you can break the boss off the case).  You need heat in that area most times to get it loose.
John

[trippy]

Thanks John, will bear that in mind.

[Ridgerunr]

I use a little heat, then a dab of anti-seize when replacing the plug.

[jpb]

When you say engine is back in frame, I assume you split the cases to replace the crank.  How would there be any old oil in the sump?  Unless you are meaning the oil pan, and if that's the case you should pull it and clean it.  I don't know of anyway to effectively clean it otherwise. 

[DCFIREMANN]

When you say engine is back in frame, I assume you split the cases to replace the crank.  How would there be any old oil in the sump?  Unless you are meaning the oil pan, and if that's the case you should pull it and clean it.  I don't know of anyway to effectively clean it otherwise. 

EXACTLY!!!!! If the cases have been split then their should be no dirty oil in the sump.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[trippy]

Correct I do mean the "oil pan".

[hrdtail78]

That's great news.  Pull the rear tire and pan, and clean it out.  I see no way of flushing the sump.  The pick up is raised in the case and the hole is small.

[trippy]

Thanks all, I figured it was a case of removing the pan.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

If you had no engine failure ( chunks in the engine ) change it( oil) a few times.. Pulling the pan is the best way. But it may not been needed for what you are doing.  The oil in a new engine will get dirty fast as you are breaking in new parts. So metal in the oil is a normal thing. Hence the filters job to remove it and get it tuned correctly to prevent over heating or excessive fuel in the oil .

[trippy]

Hi guys
Thanks for that advice, was hoping someone would suggest that, I had 8 thou runout on the crank, oil pressure  was good before the strip down, was using fueling cam plate and oil pump, had some scoring on crank pinon shaft where it goes through the camplate (visible only could not feel it with a finger nail) and had scoring on camplate and on mating surface of oil pump, will be checking for oil pressure (plugs out and spinning the engine over) light, if good will start engine and check pressure gauge.
If all OK was going to do oil changes at 50/300 and at 1000 go over to my usual synthetic (Not syn3).
Thanks for the tip.
Ride safe.

[harley2001]

Hi guys
Thanks for that advice, was hoping someone would suggest that, I had 8 thou runout on the crank, oil pressure  was good before the strip down, was using fueling cam plate and oil pump, had some scoring on crank pinon shaft where it goes through the camplate (visible only could not feel it with a finger nail) and had scoring on camplate and on mating surface of oil pump, will be checking for oil pressure (plugs out and spinning the engine over) light, if good will start engine and check pressure gauge.
If all OK was going to do oil changes at 50/300 and at 1000 go over to my usual synthetic (Not syn3).
Thanks for the tip.
Ride safe.

I have been running one of those magnetic drain plugs on my sump.