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[mbcvo]

I got a 2008 Softail Springer CVO summer last year with 2800 miles on it.  Changed the oil and filter and road for about 1000 miles, checking the oil level frequently. No change in level during the 1000 miles.  Recently getting ready to ride again (I live in snow country) so I was going to start the engine to warm the oil before changing it again.  When I checked the level before starting the tank was almost empty! 
I was pretty sure the oil was in the engine but I was concerned about starting it with no oil in the tank.  I added 1 quart and started the engine anticipating that the tank would fill up. It did start to fill and so I removed a quart.  After that the oil level stabilized at near full.

I am new to the SE 110 engine but I have been wrenching Harley since my first new one, a 1978 FXS Low Rider which I still have.
I see my issue described as "sumping" in the posts I have searched. 
My question is, is there something wrong with my bike or is it "normal" for sumping to occur after an extended period of no use?
Thanks,
Mike

[grc]

Unfortunately this has been a common problem with any of the models that have an oil tank mounted above the engine, as opposed to the Dyna/Touring system with an oil pan below the engine.  The pre-Twin Cam bikes had a check valve at the oil pump that was supposed to fix the problem, but they often stuck open or just leaked.  The Twin Cam engines don't even have that check valve, so depending on how well the parts in the oil pump fit those will also gravity feed oil into the cam chest and crankcase, some quicker than others.

When this happens again, resist the temptation to add oil.  If the oil level was good the last time you rode the bike, and there isn't a puddle of oil on the floor under the bike from a leak, just start the engine and let it idle for a minute or two to let the oil pump scavenge the excess oil and send it back to the tank. 

Jerry

[mbcvo]

Thanks much for the confirmation that I don't have an engine problem.  I will resist.
Mike

[grc]

It's a shame the MoCo never came up with an effective fix for this.  For folks who prefer to check oil levels cold, like me, it creates a problem.  I imagine people have been overfilling the models with oil tanks for decades due to this issue.

Jerry

[mbcvo]

I was concerned about starting the engine with no oil at the pressure pump inlet, but with the bottom end flooded I guess the bearings had plenty of oil!
The oil did started to return to the tank immediately upon the engine firing.
Even my shovelhead's oil tank did not drain into the engine after no-use, it just blew oil out the breather when it fired for the first time!

While I am on issues related to no-use it seems that the clutch is not fully disengaging now.  With the clutch disengaged and transmission in gear the bike will not roll.  No problem rolling in neutral.  It worked fine the last time I used it, so it seems the clutch plates are stuck together.
Is this a common issue as well?
Mike

[deuxroues]

There is a drain plug on the engine itself on the right hand side... Personally I probably would have dumped the oil if there was zero in the tank. But if all went fine when you started it up then it is probably fine.
On the clutch, the plates can stick together if it has been sitting for a while... Common sense is probably to pull it to bits and unstick the plates. One thing you can do is warm up the engine nice and hot so that the primary oil gets a bit of heat in it as well as splashing plenty of oil around on the clutch... Then put the front wheel against a solid wall and force stall it a couple of times. Not ideal but it works. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mbcvo]

I will give the forced stall a try once I get the bike back together.  My shovelhead did the same thing with the plates sticking.
Doing a few modifications now, like an oil cooler (the 110 definitely runs hot), PC5 and an air cleaner. 
The original HD Big Breather air cleaner I am sure flows well but I don't like the way it looks, too racer boy for me and it blocks the view of the front cylinder.
Thanks for the help.

[mbcvo]

Finally got back on the road a few weeks ago, unfortunately other priorities were in control.

Updating about my clutch sticking problem for the benefit of others.  When I purchased the bike it had been sitting unused in a Florida garage for several years.  What I found the problem to be was the clutch fluid was so old it had begun to solidify into gobs of gel in the master cylinder.  The gel was blocking the flow of fluid to the clutch operating cylinder.  Once I thoroughly flushed the  system the clutch returned to normal operation.

The HD oil cooler I installed was very effective and dropped the operating temperature by 20 degrees, it now does not exceed 200 degrees even a 90 degree day in traffic.

Thanks to all for the advice.

[Unbalanced]

I will give the forced stall a try once I get the bike back together.  My shovelhead did the same thing with the plates sticking.
Doing a few modifications now, like an oil cooler (the 110 definitely runs hot), PC5 and an air cleaner. 
The original HD Big Breather air cleaner I am sure flows well but I don't like the way it looks, too racer boy for me and it blocks the view of the front cylinder.
Thanks for the help.

What's the front cylinder looking at 

[Para Bellum]

What's the front cylinder looking at 

The air cleaner.   

[Unbalanced]

Must have one of them neked filters

[Para Bellum]

Must have one of them neked filters

Baby baby!