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Author Topic: Clutch/Friction Disc question  (Read 998 times)

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North Star

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Clutch/Friction Disc question
« on: May 27, 2016, 04:34:53 PM »

My 2009 SERG is at 52,000 miles on the original clutch. I will be going into the primary to do the Baker compensator, Baker chain adjuster, and AIM VPC, so I figure I may as well do something with the clutch while I'm in there.

I have no clutch issues, but I do have some new found power with a 113 build, plus I want to freshen up what I can while I'm in there, based on the higher mileage on my bike.

So, I definitely want to replace the friction discs, but should I also order the metal plates as well?

Also, I'm supposed to have the 365 lb (pink) spring already, so I wasn't planning on replacing it unless it is a wear item.

So my questions are, are the metal plates and the OEM clutch spring wear items, or should I only replace them if something is horribly wrong with them?

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2009 Screamin' Eagle Road Glide- Electric Orange/Vivid Black
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grc

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Re: Clutch/Friction Disc question
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2016, 05:16:20 PM »


The "steels", or metal plates, are usually replaced only as required after an inspection.  If they aren't scored, blued/burnt, damaged, or out-of-flat, there is no need to replace them.  They are sold by the piece, not in a kit like the friction disks, and run about $14 apiece.  The flatness spec is .006" maximum, measured on a surface plate.  If you decide to just replace all of them rather than go through an inspection process, you still need to check the new ones to make sure they are flat.  Over the years more than a few have been found to be out of spec right out of the box.

Jerry
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Jerry - 2005 Cherry SEEG  -  Member # 1155

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North Star

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Re: Clutch/Friction Disc question
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2016, 11:30:16 PM »

Thanks Jerry. Since I order my parts from a 20% off dealer in the US, I'm just trying to figure out if I should just order them in advance with the discs, but at $14 x 8 or 9 (?), maybe I'll just order the discs, and if I need plates, I'll grab them at the local HD shop.

What about the clutch spring? Does it lose "springiness", or should I stop being a cheapo and spring the $30 for an OEM replacement and change it while we're in there?

Any other PM type replacement parts I should consider?
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2009 Screamin' Eagle Road Glide- Electric Orange/Vivid Black
GMR 113", GMR 600 cams, Fullac DX & Kuryakyn Crushers, SE Heavy Breather, tuned by "Dyno Dave" Stoddart
Jagg 10 row fan assisted oil cooler
Axeo Legends/Ohlins 3-3/True Track front and rear
C&C Fastback seat w/orange flame stitching & a Le Pera Maverick
PYO Monkey Bars- 10"
Freedom Shields 12" light grey
Hawg Wired "six pack"amp/speakers, Iron Cross ipod interface
HD Daymaker headlights
Detachable King Tour Pak in Electric Orange

grc

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Re: Clutch/Friction Disc question
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2016, 08:41:21 AM »


Clutch springs will tend to weaken over time, but I can't say how much.  Since you're adding an AIM VPC, that increases the clamp load on the clutch pack as rpm's increase.  Many people who install such devices use a lighter spring anyway, to reduce clutch lever effort at low rpm's.  Since you haven't been having any issues with the spring up to this point, I don't really see a need to replace it.  However, it's a relatively cheap part so if it would bother you knowing you didn't change it when you were in there, go for it.  Fortunately it's easy to change later if necessary, without tearing the primary apart.

JMHO - Jerry
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Jerry - 2005 Cherry SEEG  -  Member # 1155

H-D and me  -  a classic love / hate relationship.  Current score:  love 40, hate 50, bewildered 10.
 

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