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[bbsiding]

Does anyone use Type F atf in the primary?  Back in my dirt bike days that was the hot set up for long clutch life.  I am sure the clutch will like it but what about the 2011 compensator  on my 11 SEUC?

[RGlideKid]

I've been using AMSOil Primary synthetic V-Twin oil on mine and like it.  A lot of folks use it or something comparable like Redline, Lucas, or Royal Purple.  Have not tried Type F in the primary as a result.

[FlaHeatWave]

A lot of the aftermarket clutch manufacturers recommend ATF to reduce clutch drag (especially with the "+1" Plate Kits, aftermarket Hubs & Baskets) due to lack of adjustability of the Hydraulic Clutches.

imo the aftermarket does not have the tolerances / stack height quite right??

From what i see on the forums, Compensator life seems to be reduced using ATF...

fwiw, I'm a fan of the HD Formula+

[Rooster]

One of my old school wrench friends says the ATF was eating seals in older motors so don't know if that is a problem with the newer motors. Rivera recommends using ATF and quite a bit less than a quart. I tried it at first but seemed noisier and changed back. So far everyone I have talked to using a Rivera clutch including me can't hit Neutral once the motor is running and it still creeps with the clutch pulled in.

[grc]

I've been running Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for quite a few years, and I posted about it a few times over those years.  Clutch drag is almost non-existent even on a cold start, where I can start the engine, pull the clutch lever, wait a few seconds, and shift to first with no noise.  Finding neutral is never an issue.  ATF is specifically made to work with wet clutches in an automatic transmission, so it make sense that it should be good for a wet clutch in a Harley.  As for the concerns about wear, ATF has been used for a long time in some automotive manual transmissions and all wheel drive transfer cases.  I can't speak to the late model compensator, but since it doesn't exactly last long even with gear oil like Formula +, why not try it and see?  As long as the bike has the latest version with the tray to direct oil directly to the comp (or the built in ribs in the outer primary cover), I wouldn't be surprised to see it works just as well as Harley's motor oil.

Jerry

[Rooster]

I never had an issue with N with the stock clutch, just the Rivera Pro Clutch and it didn't seem to be any different what fluid I used. I need to do more research. I can catch it just right most of the time rolling up to a traffic light or shut off motor and it slips right in. I'm not sure what motor my friend was referring to Evo or older for sure. He wreched in a HD dealer during the 80's and since out of his garage.

[JC]

Jerry,
  Mobil 1 synthetic ATF
Put in a new Rivera pro clutch and used the dextron III like they recommend, couldn't hit neutral, and major clutch slippage. After reading one of your other posts I switched to a quart of the Mobil and both of those problems are non existent now. 1st to second shift at 4000 and it will pack the front wheel a foot off the pavement. Thanks for the great info.

[skratch]

I've been running Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for quite a few years...........

so quick question, do you just 1 qt, or do you use the spec'ed 38oz, or something in between?

[grc]

so quick question, do you just 1 qt, or do you use the spec'ed 38oz, or something in between?

One quart comes out almost perfectly on my older 5-speed bike, oil level just touching the bottom of the diaphragm spring.  The old primaries drained more completely and consistently compared to what I hear about the late models, so mine has always taken one quart.  If you have a Cruise Drive bike without the A&S clutch I recommend following that same instruction, fill to the bottom edge of the spring.  With an A&S clutch that doesn't apply of course, since it doesn't have a diaphragm spring, but the idea is the same.

Jerry

[Rooster]

If Mobil ATF will make N easy I'll try. I have been using Redline.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Over the many years of car problems, hopped up transmissions and then my Willys auto with the 654 hp, I ran Ford ATF.  The type F has always has something in it that made clutches grab a bit better than the others allow it to do.  I've never had a lube issue with F ATF fluid.

But a good point was brought up about the compensator and if ATF would be good for it.  Apparently it is okay as some have been doing this for years.

I personally have Redline Primary lube in mine.  I have no issues with neutral, but as always I still have the clunk when shifting into gear.

[Trapperdog]

After spinning my oem clutch hub I too went with Rivera pro. At the time I was using the bike for cone courses and was frying the center clutch disks and Rivera said to use atf. After frying a second set they said their pro clutch wouldn't handle that type of abuse. The aft made no difference in locating neutral while stopped. Using the heal shifter gives a 50/50 chance though.

[Rooster]

Thanks Roger, maybe I will reinstall my rear shifter see if that helps. What did Rivera recommend if not their own clutch. Sounds like it wasn't an upgrade after all to install the Rivera.

[Trapperdog]

Thanks Roger, maybe I will reinstall my rear shifter see if that helps. What did Rivera recommend if not their own clutch. Sounds like it wasn't an upgrade after all to install the Rivera.

Hey Terry, personally that's the only time I use the heel shifter. Rivera really didn't say what to use, only that their clutches were not designed for consistently being in the friction zone. My original purchase was based on Riveras stronger hub after striping the oem out. My friends in Motors use non oem plates and steels in their comp bikes, but retain the oem basket. They are producing much lower numbers at the rear wheel though.  I do hate that finding neutral is so difficult. I don't recall the atf helping or hindering anything, but that was a few years ago that I used it.

[Rooster]

Thanks Roger, I will report back when I try it out.