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[Masterblaster]

How much would it cost to get the crank trued and welded, all in, removal, sending to DH and reinstalled with the 117 jug and piston kit?

[Fired00d]

Labor costs vary around the country, best to find out what that cost would be for you is to check locally. As it regards the tru/weld from DH you could contact them directly regarding that cost.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[laylonlor]

hate to say but do it don t worry about  the crank, until it f**ks up, i got a 110 with hp , with 120 plus, it all depends how you abues it ,...

[JKM]

i think it depends on the amount of play, which you can only measure once you have it open.  I would ignore the HD spec of "0.12 - which is totally crazy.  most builders would probably say may should be 0.005-0.006".  Personally, if it was more than "0.003 then I would do it while you have the motor apart.  I would budget for it and make the call when you're into it.  If you can't afford it, then I would put it off until you can afford it.

Have you thought about 113"?  You would re-use your current jugs.  What you save could be put towards the crank.

[Unbalanced]

Do the runout checks on both sides of the crank then make a decision based on information on your specific situation, vs. I don't/didn't have any issues so I say you march forward.    The cam side is a rolling number because you can roll the motor and get a depiction.   The primary side is a 4 pt static avg where you start at 12, then 3, then 6, then 9 and take the numbers.   If you happen to see a high number then you stop and investigate at that point.    The primary side the shaft has splines so you have to get the indicator on one of the splines to take your measurement.

I'd do a little checking before just jumping in unless you have a 3-4 year warranty still in place.  No sense upgrading, tuning and riding for X miles and then figuring out you have to completely rebuild.

my 2 coppers worth. 

[Rooster]

From what I have learned most motor builders wouldn't be happy delivering a motor with more than 2 thou pinion runnout. The MOCO after replacing many motors changed the number to 12 thou as my shop manual I bought with my 07 says maximum 3thou.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

How many miles do you ride, how hard do you push the engine on a normal basis. Have many a big build on a stock crank.. Sure cranks fail , SE cranks in my opinion are worse than the stock one you have to start with .. But myself would not really get that upset over it.. As you cannot truly check the run-out accurately with the crank in the engine  It needs to be checked on the bearing surface.. Hence the wild amount of numbers you see floating around in cyber space. 

Next it will be that you MUST have a timken as well , It is all point of view.. I have seen stock cranks take a beating for many years and then a box stock have a failure.. 

On the other hand if you want to spend ohh 8-10 grand then sure add the S&S crank 3 stage pump billet plate, upgraded bearings,  etc etc etc

Then you are going to get the next crowd that says why not 124 now ?? I mean you have it apart so go bigger.  Where does it stop .. 

On the car side its the same way buy this crank and the next is better and then the next is better than that.. I built my little SBC with a low cost crank , makes just over 900 hp been making that for 5 years now . That engine inhales massive amounts of N02 on a regular basis . it gets banged on two guns for 400 hp on top of the engine.. Took it apart last winter flawless .. Based on the guys on the net it should have blown up long ago . It gets approx 6000-9000 miles of street use as well on top of the drag racing..   I plans on going twin turbo and making 1200-1300 . I will upgrade crank at that point.. But after tearing it down I will not go TT until something lets go its running way to good to just throw more money at it for no reason..

[DRAGO B W]

I agree with Steve on the crank issue.  Again We always recommended doing up crank Timken etc.,But Punched out stock cylinders some good head work and cam exhaust 115/125 Hp easy. on CVO 110.
I my self am not a fan of the 117 SE kit have seen some in here blowing oil  pistons slap etc.,

[goop]

I was interested in building the bottom end on my 2010 cvo sg so I called darkhorse and got a rough quote of 2500 new crank bored block and full timkin bearings. the reason for the new crank was that mine had scoring on the end of the crank where the cam plate bearing rides.

[FlaHeatWave]

I was interested in building the bottom end on my 2010 cvo sg so I called darkhorse and got a rough quote of 2500 new crank bored block and full timkin bearings. the reason for the new crank was that mine had scoring on the end of the crank where the cam plate bearing rides.

Doing my (not a drop-in) 117" the S&S Crank, Line Honing the Cases, Installing the Timken, was a lot less$$ Retail... I don't remember the exact $ amount, but it was at least $500-$700 less than this quote... And it's an S&S Crank!

.0005 installed on a Timken... No better set-up out there...

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I do not agree that you need a timken in all builds now that is my opinion and its has to do with the less than accurate case center line on the case .. However I feel that a S&S crank on the HD black SE bearing is by far the best way to go.. Again my opinion , as well I would not waste my money prepping a stock crank. The tq on the comp nut holds it and I have to laugh about guys that think it will not work.. Check the end play on a dozen stock engines you would be surprised at how little there really is . We rarely  do the timken conversion today as the roller bearings work just fine. Less money out of your pocket.  For a full blown street strip bike if the customer wants it great.  For the avg build just dont see the reason..

and the spec of .0005  you sure that is correct  5 tenths   that is too tight in my opinion I set them at .0025-.003  spec is 1-5 thou .. 5 tenths will change with air temp ..

[FlaHeatWave]

I do not agree that you need a timken in all builds now that is my opinion and its has to do with the less than accurate case center line on the case .. However I feel that a S&S crank on the HD black SE bearing is by far the best way to go.. Again my opinion , as well I would not waste my money prepping a stock crank. The tq on the comp nut holds it and I have to laugh about guys that think it will not work.. Check the end play on a dozen stock engines you would be surprised at how little there really is . We rarely  do the timken conversion today as the roller bearings work just fine. Less money out of your pocket.  For a full blown street strip bike if the customer wants it great.  For the avg build just dont see the reason..

and the spec of .0005  you sure that is correct  5 tenths   that is too tight in my opinion I set them at .0025-.003  spec is 1-5 thou .. 5 tenths will change with air temp ..

I thought that was the purpose of Line Honing the Cases... to true the Crank Centerline ??

Yea, installing the Timken in the 117 may have been a little "While we're in there.." "We were trying to use the best Components / Practices available at the time (late '13) with longevity being the primary goal"...

Run-out, not End Play...

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

You cannot per say line hone that case. If you hone the two bores you are going to have an issue with the right side bearing not having the proper press fit. Now you can work off the right side bore and do what ever you want to the sprocket side however that does require a custom made insert at that point. 

Line hone/ line bore is more of a car item  its done to true up the caps .

Tman has done some custom work like this .. it requires a lot of work and time on set up and most use a CMM machine and a CNC

Run out is based on the crank and even with a timken the right side is still not supported .. R&R has a custom engine case that does in fact run two timkens and a roller bearing.. That is a extremely trick engine .

I am not saying its a bad thing but the vast amount of inserts are just the Jims unit that is pressed in so what ever you have is what you have. The entire reason for the roller bearings is to lower time on the production line and allow a more room for error so to speak

[FlaHeatWave]

You cannot per say line hone that case. If you hone the two bores you are going to have an issue with the right side bearing not having the proper press fit. Now you can work off the right side bore and do what ever you want to the sprocket side however that does require a custom made insert at that point. 

Line hone/ line bore is more of a car item  its done to true up the caps .

Tman has done some custom work like this .. it requires a lot of work and time on set up and most use a CMM machine and a CNC

Run out is based on the crank and even with a timken the right side is still not supported .. R&R has a custom engine case that does in fact run two timkens and a roller bearing.. That is a extremely trick engine .

I am not saying its a bad thing but the vast amount of inserts are just the Jims unit that is pressed in so what ever you have is what you have. The entire reason for the roller bearings is to lower time on the production line and allow a more room for error so to speak

Yep, that's how it was done, along with a "Hefty Lefty" in the Right Case...

Trying to get all the "straightest support" we could from the late model OE Cases