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[Ironhorse]

I will be getting a new rear tire in the next few weeks and will change out my rear pads as well. I may need to change out the rear rotor as it has some dark spots on it. Not sure if this is normal wear or of the rotor got cooked from heat.

The bike is an '06 CVO Ultra with the HD floating rotors. My question is, if I do need a new rotor, do I have to go with the HD floating one, or can I go with an OEM solid rotor? Are there any after market rotors or pads on Amazon that work just as well or better that I should be looking at?

Thanks.

Mark

[efrbc1]

I replaced my rear rotor (05 SEEG) with an HD floating rotor.  I have the Thunderstar wheels and rotors but just went with the "plain" design to save some $$ as you can't even see it.  Mine was worn past specs (thickness) and that was the only reason for the change.  Unless yours is grooved or warped a little discoloration is no reason to change it.  As far as stock HD vs. aftermarket, I use Lyndall Z+ pads and have been happy with that pad on stock rotors.

Chris

[CVODON]

Why are you changing the pads? Have you already checked them and found them worn-out? We all have opinions but I like the Lyndall pads better than HD. Unless your rotor is warped or worn below min spec not sure why anyone would ever replace a rear one. It is pretty hard to warp a floating rotor, I mean it floats to allow more correct alignment and a certain amount of "Flex" and movement during heat cycles. Also rear brake for normal riding is not used much as front. Anothe reason I ask why you are changing them is, I personally have never to my knowledge replaced a set of rear pads, Had a couple of bikes that I rode over 50K before I traded, which is not a lot, but the rear pads which are not used very much didn't need replacing then anyway. Front pads now are a different thing.

[Trapperdog]

Why are you changing the pads? Have you already checked them and found them worn-out? We all have opinions but I like the Lyndall pads better than HD. Unless your rotor is warped or worn below min spec not sure why anyone would ever replace a rear one. It is pretty hard to warp a floating rotor, I mean it floats to allow more correct alignment and a certain amount of "Flex" and movement during heat cycles. Also rear brake for normal riding is not used much as front. Anothe reason I ask why you are changing them is, I personally have never to my knowledge replaced a set of rear pads, Had a couple of bikes that I rode over 50K before I traded, which is not a lot, but the rear pads which are not used very much didn't need replacing then anyway. Front pads now are a different thing.

Lol, I can see you don't know what what Ironhorse Mark does with his bike. I'll let him fill you in.
Similarly, myself at almost 100K, am on at least my third set, if not fourth.  And I also tow a trailer part time aside from riding in circles.   My rear rotor was also at minimum spec last pad change and probably past spec at this point.

[ultrafxr]

Why are you changing the pads? Have you already checked them and found them worn-out? We all have opinions but I like the Lyndall pads better than HD. Unless your rotor is warped or worn below min spec not sure why anyone would ever replace a rear one. It is pretty hard to warp a floating rotor, I mean it floats to allow more correct alignment and a certain amount of "Flex" and movement during heat cycles. Also rear brake for normal riding is not used much as front. Anothe reason I ask why you are changing them is, I personally have never to my knowledge replaced a set of rear pads, Had a couple of bikes that I rode over 50K before I traded, which is not a lot, but the rear pads which are not used very much didn't need replacing then anyway. Front pads now are a different thing.

We all have different experiences with brakes and tires depending on how we ride.  My rear brake pads typically wear out faster than the front - and it is NOT because I do not use the front.  I always apply both front and rear brakes when stopping and slowing.  Only time I use rear only is at parking lot speed tight turns and possibly a little trail braking in the twisties.  I guess having two brakes up front may also add to the longevity of the pads as braking may be more efficient - don't know.  But I've never had to replace rotors.  On my last extended road trip I thought for sure the rear rotor was warped because after several days of mountain road riding I was definitely getting a shudder from the rear.  But over time it seems to have self corrected.

[CVODON]

Can't see how you all wear out the rear pads unless you are towing a trailer or something. Strange, I also use the rear brake, but apparently most of you use it without the use of the front brake. Probably like my neighbor, Says he never used a front brake because he didn't want to go over the handlebars.

[Ironhorse]

Can't see how you all wear out the rear pads unless you are towing a trailer or something. Strange, I also use the rear brake, but apparently most of you use it without the use of the front brake. Probably like my neighbor, Says he never used a front brake because he didn't want to go over the handlebars.

Don,

I use rear brake for slow speed control. In my classes I teach riders to use the rear brake combined with the friction zone and throttle control. This allows for fine control in full lock Figure 8s with a good lean, and the full lock u-turn from a stop with a good lean. It's basic LEO slow speed riding and cone work. Sometimes i'll spend half an hour or more just working on skill drills in a parking lot full of cones. That may not be appealing to some and I get that. But it's what I like to do.

Of course for good straight line stopping I use threshold combination braking, both front and rear.

Pads are fairly inexpensive, so I always install a new set with each rear tire. They may not be completely worn down, but for me it's good insurance.

Mark