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[drjohn]

I purchased my 2014 Ultra CVO new and upgraded the exhaust to V&H Monster Squares, V&H XPipe, V&H FP3, SE 585 Cams, High Flow Fuel Injectors, SE .58 ml Throttle body.  Now after discussing the M8 and why the move away from the TC, my Harley Tech tells me that I should have the SE billeted Cam Plate with High Output Oil Pump, SE Rocker arms, SE Tappets, and a High Capacity Oil Pan to take care of the issues that result in the 110 having a catastrophic failure, but mainly to provide a longer life to the engine.   Is this all necessary?  Are there certain parts on this list you would recommend I have installed?  There are so many other things than go wrong to cause failure, like the cam chain tensioner.  What are your thoughts?

[FLSTFI Dave]

You should upgrade the lifters.  I would not use HD lifters, not even SE.  S&S lifters or Woods Directional lifters is what I would use.

The weakest link in the 110 is the lifters.

I would also go to an AV&V Beehive valve spring.

[drjohn]

Thanks Dave!  So you wouldn't suggest I have the cam plate and oil pan replaced?  I have seen some discussion threads where riders are changing the lifters every 10k miles.  That's pretty crazy on a premium bike.  I am just looking for any parts that will provide me with the durability that apparently this TC engine lacks.  I'm taking your suggestion on the S&S lifters, and will do more research on the beehive valve springs.

[bakon]

Good post. At 18k on 110 with pipes I wonder about my lifters after reading in here.
As for all the extras you list, doubt an oil pan means much if you change oil as needed. The other parts I have used but on older 2006 bike that was made before the latest parts on your 2014, like improved oil pump

[Scott7d]

I've read the high capacity oil pan just makes it where the oil takes a little longer to heat up, and doesn't actually make the bike run any cooler.

If you haven't had the bike tuned (not just flashed with FP3 after upgrades) that is your next best investment aside from the lifters. I wouldn't do all that work then cut a corner when it comes to making it run right  Overall sounds like it should be a great running bike!

[Para Bellum]

Definitely replace the lifters; those are one of the weakest parts, and have caused many complete engine wipe-outs.  Beehive springs are a good mod, as they relieve some of the stress on the lifters, but still need to do lifters first.  Cam plate can be checked when doing lifters, and replaced if there's excessive wear.  Oil pan doesn't need to be replaced; no real benefit to it.

[CHH_Badkarma]

I will echo what others here have said. Replace the lifters if you are going into the motor.
Also will say that the new oil pan will not do much other than take longer to "normalize" the oil temp (reach operating temperature) Get a good oil cooler. That will make a real diffrence. Oil bud is highly rated on the forum here.
As I have done little with my ride as she is new to me, my first upgrade was a dyno tune and that had a very noticeable impact on felt heat while riding the bike. Benefits of getting rid of a canned map or lean EPA tune to cannot be reinforced enough.

[drjohn]

You guys have been really helpful!  I noticed a couple of you mentioned tuning.  I had the SE Pro Tuner, but went to the V&H FP3 because the HD Dyno seemed to make my bike run rough and rich after the cams were installed (I hated flushing $345 down the toilet).  I am having the work done this time by an Indy shop and they do Power Commanders on the Dyno.  Do you think I would get a better tune with the PC over the FP3? 

[HD Street Performance]

Do you think I would get a better tune with the PC over the FP3?

No I think you would be best to find a tuner that understands the SEPT and use that.
Plus keep your eye on the ball, the cam plate and tensioners are fine, as others have said the lifters need periodic changing regardless of the brand.
I assume you already have adjustable pushrods so this is an easy change.

[trippy]

If your serious about getting the motor bullet proof, then you need to check for run-out of the Crank,  As said by others Lifters (S&S) and beehive valve springs to lesson the load on the valve train are a must also inner cam bearings upgrade,   but at very least get the crank run-out checked,  I know its big expense to get the cases out and the crank sorted including a Timken conversion done, BUT if you add up the cost of the other parts that HD salesman was trying to fob you off with then its not so bad.

Good luck.

[HD Street Performance]

I respectfully disagree.
We have been running with more runout than I am comfortable with for 10 years now and they are usually fine if under ~.006". The motors run and don't fail there unless the press fit is bad and the runout is growing. As far as a Timken don't see the need for that either on most builds. The latest revision of roller bearings are reliable in most applications. Then there is the spring discussion. At the risk of trying to stop a freight train the stock springs are not that stout. The beehives most run have more seat pressure and a little less pressure over the nose when installed at stock spring pack height. Personally I am making a transition away from the beehives and moving to conicals.
Another area of the 110 that doesn't seem to get a lot of air play are the cylinders and how round and straight they are. This is a problem area on some that have been run hot for extended time. And the camshaft. Anyone that thinks the SE255 stocker is mild, think again as the timing is short but the lift rates are fast, hard on any lifter. Especially bad when the springs are not able to control the large heavy valves. That is the noise we hear, lash.

[drjohn]

I respectfully disagree.
We have been running with more runout than I am comfortable with for 10 years now and they are usually fine if under ~.006". The motors run and don't fail there unless the press fit is bad and the runout is growing. As far as a Timken don't see the need for that either on most builds. The latest revision of roller bearings are reliable in most applications. Then there is the spring discussion. At the risk of trying to stop a freight train the stock springs are not that stout. The beehives most run have more seat pressure and a little less pressure over the nose when installed at stock spring pack height. Personally I am making a transition away from the beehives and moving to conicals.
Another area of the 110 that doesn't seem to get a lot of air play are the cylinders and how round and straight they are. This is a problem area on some that have been run hot for extended time. And the camshaft. Anyone that thinks the SE255 stocker is mild, think again as the timing is short but the lift rates are fast, hard on any lifter. Especially bad when the springs are not able to control the large heavy valves. That is the noise we hear, lash.

Thanks for the input HD Street Performance.  I spoke with a tech at Revzilla and he said that the CVO springs are sufficient for the build.  Will the Roller Rocker Arms and SE Pistons take care of some of the issues (awkward 45 degree angle of TC) that creates the violence in the top end of the engine? 

[trippy]

Hi Don,

I agree with your view on .006 thou run-out that's why I said to "check" of course mine being 2007 I had .013 thou so it needed to be done ( just in time to save the oil pump etc ), and while the cases were split I think I did the right thing with the Timken, by the way the 4.065 pistons and the behives work just great.

Sorry am a bit bias regarding the 2007/8 110, in my opinion it was not fit to be on the market, let alone by a "so called" premium manufacturer. 

[HD Street Performance]

Thanks for the input HD Street Performance.  I spoke with a tech at Revzilla and he said that the CVO springs are sufficient for the build.  Will the Roller Rocker Arms and SE Pistons take care of some of the issues (awkward 45 degree angle of TC) that creates the violence in the top end of the engine?

Roller rocker's are not needed unless lift is .625" plus but can't hurt anything.
The stock pistons are fine as are the cylinders but once overheated they distort. I use Mahle and CP pistons and the stock or S&S cylinders. All fine when properly bored and honed, tuned, and broken in.
General state mentioned
Lots of times parts or combinations of parts, assemblies,  "work" but may not be optimum.  That said there is plenty of room at the top for multiple bests.

[Rooster]

I respectfully disagree.
We have been running with more runout than I am comfortable with for 10 years now and they are usually fine if under ~.006". The motors run and don't fail there unless the press fit is bad and the runout is growing. As far as a Timken don't see the need for that either on most builds. The latest revision of roller bearings are reliable in most applications. Then there is the spring discussion. At the risk of trying to stop a freight train the stock springs are not that stout. The beehives most run have more seat pressure and a little less pressure over the nose when installed at stock spring pack height. Personally I am making a transition away from the beehives and moving to conicals.
Another area of the 110 that doesn't seem to get a lot of air play are the cylinders and how round and straight they are. This is a problem area on some that have been run hot for extended time. And the camshaft. Anyone that thinks the SE255 stocker is mild, think again as the timing is short but the lift rates are fast, hard on any lifter. Especially bad when the springs are not able to control the large heavy valves. That is the noise we hear, lash.

Mr HD, are the guides and seals still inferior as they once were or ok now?