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[jc15025]

Has anyone tried these? Lowering blocks for all coil over shocks on touring bikes included the 2017's Thank you.  The other JC.

ttps://www.lachoppers.com/catalog/display/4935/index.html

LA-7590-06B - LOWRNG KIT C/SHCK BLK FL

[Grizzly]

O M G !  You mean there's two of you! 

The other JC is a great guy, so glad to hear there's another.


I have not used the lowering blocks as it changes the angle in which the shock sits and therefore not great for operation, so I've been informed.

I do have a lowering kit front & rear on my touring bike, but went with the H-D shorter shocks.

[grc]

The CVO Street Glide is already lowered one inch in the rear from the factory.  A standard height Electra Glide runs 13" shocks.  Your bike runs 12" shocks.  Why would you want to lower it further?  Altering the ride height, ground clearance, and lean angle even more isn't a great idea.

Jerry

[J.D.]

Lowering blocks, generally speaking, are a bad idea, as the wheel is now closer to the fender but the shock will allow the same amount of travel.  Consider the potential for disaster when on the highway and hitting a dip or pothole big enough to bottom out those rear shocks...

[Toofast_28]

A buddy put lowering blocks on his non-Cvo bike (not these specific blocks) and when his lady was on the back and he hit a bad bump either the tire or swing arm crushed all the rear wiring.  Nice mess.  Id advise against it.

[hd-dude]

Stay away from them, all of the above posts good advice!

[King Glide]

And, if you don't buy ones of good quality, they have been known to be drilled in different places leading to the bike being out of alignment, and causing handling issues.

[Harleyman CVO]

you have to watch the Rushmore bikes with lowering blocks have been known to rub the inside of the right side bag if you want to lower your bike the proper way I highly recommend pro action 11  shocks 

[moscooter]

 
The ONLY reason for considering lowering blocks or shorter shocks, etc. is to present a "cooler" look/image.  Has nothing what so ever to do with increasing handling, etc.

So, given the whole deal is strictly for "looks",  why not pony up for a compressor assisted air shock package.  That way,  you could ride the bike normally with full suspension travel and better handling,  then when you're stopped and want to (show boat),  you just hit your remote switch and lower the bike part way or all the way down where you want it.  

[jc15025]

I might go with the 12" Pro-Action Shocks which I hear from them are 1/2-3/4" lower.  Thank you all. The other JC.

you have to watch the Rushmore bikes with lowering blocks have been known to rub the inside of the right side bag if you want to lower your bike the proper way I highly recommend pro action 11  shocks

[Road Dad]

Don't ever lower a HD. You do not need two feet flat on the street. Use your left foot and keep the right foot on the running board & brake.

[grc]

I might go with the 12" Pro-Action Shocks which I hear from them are 1/2-3/4" lower.  Thank you all. The other JC.

I'm not sure how they figure their 12" shock will lower the bike significantly compared to your stock 12" shocks.  Or did you mean their 11" shocks.

I'd still like to know why you want to lower a bike that is already lowered.  If it's just to look cool, I guess everyone has to make their own mistakes.  If it's because you can't get your feet flat on the ground, I'd suggest other options including riding boots with thicker heels and soles, or a seat with a lower and narrower rider section.  Screwing up the safety and handling of a bike for either reason is a bad idea.

JMHO - Jerry

[jc15025]

That 1/2-3/4" is straight from the people at pro-action with the 12" shock.

I'm not sure how they figure their 12" shock will lower the bike significantly compared to your stock 12" shocks.  Or did you mean their 11" shocks.

I'd still like to know why you want to lower a bike that is already lowered.  If it's just to look cool, I guess everyone has to make their own mistakes.  If it's because you can't get your feet flat on the ground, I'd suggest other options including riding boots with thicker heels and soles, or a seat with a lower and narrower rider section.  Screwing up the safety and handling of a bike for either reason is a bad idea.

JMHO - Jerry

[hd-dude]

That 1/2-3/4" is straight from the people at pro-action with the 12" shock.

Like Jerry said, a 12" shock is a 12" shock. They may not know that you already have 12" shocks on your bike.

[moscooter]

I'm not sure how they figure their 12" shock will lower the bike significantly compared to your stock 12" shocks.  Or did you mean their 11" shocks.

I'd still like to know why you want to lower a bike that is already lowered.  If it's just to look cool, I guess everyone has to make their own mistakes.  If it's because you can't get your feet flat on the ground, I'd suggest other options including riding boots with thicker heels and soles, or a seat with a lower and narrower rider section.  Screwing up the safety and handling of a bike for either reason is a bad idea.

JMHO - Jerry

Jerry,

You are likely not quite as "aged" as am I,  but still old enough to recall doing similar sh** to our cars............way back in the 'ol days.

This whole thread reminds me of my first car,  a Corvair coupe.  I finally got the "look" for the front end like I wanted it, via "j" hooks which are like "u" bolts with one leg cut off.  You drilled two holes in the bottom A-Arm and then hooked the j bolt over a coil spring near the top end and with the threaded end thru the hole in bottom,  you tighened up the nuts and thus lowered the front end.
But prior to doing that,  I loaded the trunk (in front end) with large boulders........this weighted down the front end and acheived the "look" also, but it made my steering like a dump truck without pwr steering.  

Hey.............I was a teenager at the time