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[Fullsac Performance]

Seems everybody with the M8 shares a common complaint about the late clutch engagement. I tore into mine today to find this cute little plunger begging to be shortened. I started at .025 and ended at .040 shorter overall length than stock through a little trial and error. I removed material from the larger lever end of the plunger with a stationary belt sander. Then spinning it with a cordless drill, I used a file and then emery cloth to restore the radius. Clutch engagement is now about a 1/4" closer to the bar, noticable but not drastic. I havn't ridden it yet, and I may take a little more off after I get a few miles on it?

Proceed with caution!

Steve@fullsac.com

[pvanwagner]

Interesting.

[grc]

Did you notice any free play in the lever after making this modification Steve, or does the lever still go all the way out to the stop and stay there? 

For anyone not totally sure which part is being modified, see the attached drawing.  If you try this and don't like the result, you can get a replacement (included in the master cylinder rebuild kit, $36.75 MSRP).  So it is a relatively inexpensive experiment for those interested, much cheaper than Oberon levers or trying to bend the stock lever.

Jerry

[Fullsac Performance]

Did you notice any free play in the lever after making this modification Steve, or does the lever still go all the way out to the stop and stay there? 

For anyone not totally sure which part is being modified, see the attached drawing.  If you try this and don't like the result, you can get a replacement (included in the master cylinder rebuild kit, $36.75 MSRP).  So it is a relatively inexpensive experiment for those interested, much cheaper than Oberon levers or trying to bend the stock lever.

Jerry

Yes. Free play at the tip is about 3/8 ". It was zero before.

Steve@fullsac.com

[mike jesse]

Speaking of the Oberon levers, I just installed the front brake lever on my 14 CVO RK.

Due to nerve damage in my right fingers I am unable at this point in time to straighten my fingers

to grab the lever. With the Oberon adjustable lever I now can ride with 2 fingers resting on the blade.

Sorry for the hijack, but this my help someone else out.

[grc]

If I had one of the affected bikes, and could get my hands on a replacement master cylinder for a reasonable price, I think I'd try moving the bleed hole in the casting about .030 - .040".  That would also leave more free play in the lever before actually disengaging the clutch (no actuator and clutch release rod movement takes place until the bleed hole is blocked by the movement of the piston), but wouldn't stop the lever from returning completely to the stop.  Alas, I don't have a late model bike with this problem and don't really have plans to buy one.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

Out of everything discussed in this thread the thing I am most surprised by is that Mother Harley actually offers an inexpensive rebuild kit rather than forcing purchase of a new unit.

[grc]

Out of everything discussed in this thread the thing I am most surprised by is that Mother Harley actually offers an inexpensive rebuild kit rather than forcing purchase of a new unit.

    I was equally amazed when I found that information.  I seem to remember not all that long ago when they stopped making rebuild kits available.  It's nice to see the rectified that mistake.

Jerry