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[harlez4me]

Well guys, like I mentioned in an earlier thread, I was going to attempt to make my power locks operate by a remote as well as the regular ignition switch on method. I just got back at it tonight and finish it off. I just have to tidy up the wire loom and put the outer fairing back on. It works real nice.

It was a fair bit of screwing around. I had to add 4 relays to run the system by remote. Two to switch the stock lock/unlock relays and two to switch 12 volts to the feed circuit as it is dead with the key off. If you have the SE supplement shop service manual, you will see what I mean if you look at how they wire this circuit.

The remote system is made by Autoloc (KL400). It has 4 channels, 2 to lock/unlock and 2 spares to run whatever you want. The lock/unlock send a one pulse ground signal when you hit the button. The other two buttons run a ground signal as long as you hold them. I made them trigger another pair of relays to run my Legend Air Suspension. It has amazing range. My work shop is a 100% steel structure with steel inner walls and doors. I can go about 20ft outside my shop and it still will operate the shocks/locks.
I look forwad to messing with peoples heads when it is parked at a bar/patio and I raise and lower it while passers by are checkin it out. . It doesn't take much to amuse me

JD

[hd-dude]

That's too cool JD, so when does the remote start unit go on? (I actually saw a bike with one on it a while bike)

[Eqcons]

Well guys, like I mentioned in an earlier thread, I was going to attempt to make my power locks operate by a remote as well as the regular ignition switch on method. I just got back at it tonight and finish it off. I just have to tidy up the wire loom and put the outer fairing back on. It works real nice.

It was a fair bit of screwing around. I had to add 4 relays to run the system by remote. Two to switch the stock lock/unlock relays and two to switch 12 volts to the feed circuit as it is dead with the key off. If you have the SE supplement shop service manual, you will see what I mean if you look at how they wire this circuit.

The remote system is made by Autoloc (KL400). It has 4 channels, 2 to lock/unlock and 2 spares to run whatever you want. The lock/unlock send a one pulse ground signal when you hit the button. The other two buttons run a ground signal as long as you hold them. I made them trigger another pair of relays to run my Legend Air Suspension. It has amazing range. My work shop is a 100% steel structure with steel inner walls and doors. I can go about 20ft outside my shop and it still will operate the shocks/locks.
I look forwad to messing with peoples heads when it is parked at a bar/patio and I raise and lower it while passers by are checkin it out. . It doesn't take much to amuse me

JD

What was the cost of the parts, JD?

Jim

[harlez4me]

That's too cool JD, so when does the remote start unit go on? (I actually saw a bike with one on it a while bike)

Hey dood, it wouldn't take much if ya left that efin H-D fob in your tour pack. 

My buddy calls my bike "Kitt" now after "Nightrider".

JD

[harlez4me]

What was the cost of the parts, JD?

Jim

Hey Jim, the Autoloc system (fob and module) is about $100. The relays I used were all automotive application. The ones for the shocks were from a junk car....nice pair mounted on a bracket on the firewall. The 4 I used for the locks were new but free. A buddy of mine works at a car plant and they were scraping a wack of fuse/relay centers, so he pulled out an assortment of them and gave them to me. They are very small with small spade terminals....nice and compact. I then used 2 sided tape and mounted them to existing brackets (GPS). They look very nice. I just need to fine tune my wire routing.
I thought for sure I was setting myself up for a   

I will take some when I am ALL done.
JD

[Eqcons]

Hey Jim, the Autoloc system (fob and module) is about $100. The relays I used were all automotive application. The ones for the shocks were from a junk car....nice pair mounted on a bracket on the firewall. The 4 I used for the locks were new but free. A buddy of mine works at a car plant and they were scraping a wack of fuse/relay centers, so he pulled out an assortment of them and gave them to me. They are very small with small spade terminals....nice and compact. I then used 2 sided tape and mounted them to existing brackets (GPS). They look very nice. I just need to fine tune my wire routing.
I thought for sure I was setting myself up for a   

I will take some when I am ALL done.
JD

Pretty good price wise, JD!  Little automotive relays are cheap, so it sound like a Good® Thing™© <As the MoFoMoCo might say!>  to do.....

[bisounours]

Thanks for this good news, harlez4me !

Jacques

[harlez4me]

Well, I don't often admit to mistakes, but I will share one with you on this little project so that it might prevent repeating itself for someone else..

I do all my work on a bike lift bench with a wheel vice on the front. WELL, when I ran the 2 wires from the remote module in the fairing, down and out and under the fuel tank to the air compressor relays, I didn't allow enough wire in the steering head for a left turn. I put my fairing all back together, backed it off the lift and let the steering go to the left and jumped off. I stood back and proceeded to play with my new toy...nothing happened. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
I then pulled the fairing back off to see the the wiring had pulled the plug out of the remote receiver/module. Lucky for me I had enough slack wire at the compressor to pull more through (after lifting the tank again).
 All is well now and working good.

JD

[hd-dude]

Well, I don't often admit to mistakes, but I will share one with you on this little project so that it might prevent repeating itself for someone else..

I do all my work on a bike lift bench with a wheel vice on the front. WELL, when I ran the 2 wires from the remote module in the fairing, down and out and under the fuel tank to the air compressor relays, I didn't allow enough wire in the steering head for a left turn. I put my fairing all back together, backed it off the lift and let the steering go to the left and jumped off. I stood back and proceeded to play with my new toy...nothing happened. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
I then pulled the fairing back off to see the the wiring had pulled the plug out of the remote receiver/module. Lucky for me I had enough slack wire at the compressor to pull more through (after lifting the tank again).
 All is well now and working good.

JD

That is great advise JD!, Anything installed with wiring running from the front to the back will fall into this category.

[harlez4me]

That is great advise JD!, Anything installed with wiring running from the front to the back will fall into this category.

Yes J, another lesson learned and not soon to be forgot.
JD

[harlez4me]

Hey Jim, the Autoloc system (fob and module) is about $100. The relays I used were all automotive application. The ones for the shocks were from a junk car....nice pair mounted on a bracket on the firewall. The 4 I used for the locks were new but free. A buddy of mine works at a car plant and they were scraping a wack of fuse/relay centers, so he pulled out an assortment of them and gave them to me. They are very small with small spade terminals....nice and compact. I then used 2 sided tape and mounted them to existing brackets (GPS). They look very nice. I just need to fine tune my wire routing.
I thought for sure I was setting myself up for a   

I will take some when I am ALL done.
JD

I knew sooner or later H-D would get with the program. Now maybe they could throw in a digital antenna?

JD

[grc]

If I'm reading the info from H-D correctly, the new "remote power lock" feature for '08 comes with it's own separate key fob.  Now you will have a security key fob (no button) plus a power lock key fob (with a button) along with your key.  Is it just me, or does that seem like one of the dumber friggin' ideas they've come up with lately?  Somehow the automotive folks have had this whole thing figured out for decades, without making us carry around a pocketful of extra fobs.

Jerry

[Chief]

If I'm reading the info from H-D correctly, the new "remote power lock" feature for '08 comes with it's own separate key fob.  Now you will have a security key fob (no button) plus a power lock key fob (with a button) along with your key.  Is it just me, or does that seem like one of the dumber friggin' ideas they've come up with lately?  Somehow the automotive folks have had this whole thing figured out for decades, without making us carry around a pocketful of extra fobs.

Jerry

Jerry,

I believe the remote for the locks is built into a fob on the key, like Lexus had several years back. I guess that means the key will be bigger and fatter, but no extra fob.

The Screamin’ Eagle Ultra also features a power locking system with a new remote/barrel key fob, spun aluminum metal gauge face, color matched derby covers and CVO logo ignition switch decal.

[grc]

Jerry,

I believe the remote for the locks is built into a fob on the key, like Lexus had several years back. I guess that means the key will be bigger and fatter, but no extra fob.

Chief,

This is what I was looking at, in the '08 Tech Forum files:

"FLHTCSE3 now features an electric lock push button key fob along with the dash panel lock button
• Key fob is separate from the security fob"

If it is one of those fat keys with a built-in pushbutton fob, I'm still thinking that key plus the security fob is too big a wad to carry around in my pocket.  No reason in the world why they couldn't combine the security and power lock functions in one small fob.

Jerry

[Chief]

Chief,

This is what I was looking at, in the '08 Tech Forum files:

"FLHTCSE3 now features an electric lock push button key fob along with the dash panel lock button
• Key fob is separate from the security fob"

If it is one of those fat keys with a built-in pushbutton fob, I'm still thinking that key plus the security fob is too big a wad to carry around in my pocket.  No reason in the world why they couldn't combine the security and power lock functions in one small fob.

Jerry

Jerry, I totally agree. I wanted to get the new fob thinking I could replace my current security fob, but that doesn't look like thats the way it works. I guess since the power locks are still a CVO Ultra only thing, they haven't done any integration into the mainstream hardware yet. I guess another way to look at it is there are now two fobs, one of them has a built-in key. I sure hope the fob/key combo is smaller than the security hockey puck.