very good info! Thanks! I may give this a try. I have a couple questions. First, is there a fitment issue if you only use the water\oil cooler without the adapter plate? and where did you tie the cooler in with the radiators?
Yes, the adapter plate was need to offset the (filter + cooler) assembly. Without the offset the filter cannot be installed because the crank sensor get's in the way.
The oil cooler is on the Cooled Water supply line in the water pump discharge going to the heads. The solid tubing (normal supply line) had to be removed to make room for the preformed hoses. I elected to cut the center bracket on the OEM Supply & Return lines so that I could continue to use the OEM return line from the heads going back toward the thermostat.
This conversion is not for the faint of heart. And you need to be willing to tweak things to get it to fit. Since I've installed it I've not had one issue or leak but the assembly is a tight fit. The oil filter is easily accessible still so that is a good thing.
I did all this before running any of the tests...
After testing my recommendation would be to remove the thermostat and forget about the Oil Cooler all together. Or consider adding a conventional air cooled oil cooler. This way you do not need to mess with the supply and return water lines or the plumbing (preformed hoses) needed to incorporate the water oil cooler assembly.
I'll leave my assembly in place because it does work and I have bragging rights

but after collecting test data it was clear to me that the removal of the thermostat was the largest contributor to the cooling gains I saw.
Hope this helps..
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