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[Dan_Lockwood]

Okay, I've hauled my bikes in trailers that I could easily bolt down through the floor into the bracing to put in front wheel chocks.

BUT...

What do you do in a toy hauler that you do NOT want to drill and bolt through the floor?

I have a roll over floor chock that I may be able to make up outriggers to add side to side stabilization and tie down front to rear.

But without any way to screw 2"x4" on each side of the rear tire to keep it from sliding, I guess you can wrap straps around the wheels, but not really impressed with that option.

So what does everyone do without bolting a permanent front wheel chock in the floor?

Thanks in advance.

[rayson56]

These T nuts work really well for me although initially you do have to drill a hole for them. You tap them in from the bottom and either use an adhesive or in my case a couple small screws on the shoulder of each one to keep them in place when not in use. That way you can remove your chocks to get them out of your way when not in use.

https://www.grainger.com/product/1XGH6?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Products_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS

[JCZ]

You don't need a front wheel chock or straps.  For Harleys it's the B&W Biker Bar.

I and many, many other full time RVers have been all over the nation with it......quick, fast, easy and more secure than anything else out there.  Use the search feature on this forum or google it.

https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=79634.15

[JCZ]

Just this quick and this simple.....

[CVODON]

I feel you do need a stop in any kind of towing. The Biker Bar is a scary unit when only bolted to the plywood floor of a camping trailer.

[JCZ]

I feel you do need a stop in any kind of towing. The Biker Bar is a scary unit when only bolted to the plywood floor of a camping trailer.

I would be leery in a camping trailer......hell, initially I was leery putting it in my toyhauler.  If your floor will support an 800 lb + motorcycle, it'll support the Biker Bar and the biker bar is much more stable than straps.  You could also bolt to the cross frame under the garage area.  But I've been to a number of RV rallies in the past couple of years (at one here in Red Bluff, California right now) and have seen this Biker Bar in many, many toyhaulers....large and small and in weekenders and full timers.  I've still not read or heard a negative comment. 

[Dan_Lockwood]

I would be leery in a camping trailer......hell, initially I was leery putting it in my toyhauler.  If your floor will support an 800 lb + motorcycle, it'll support the Biker Bar and the biker bar is much more stable than straps.  You could also bolt to the cross frame under the garage area.  But I've been to a number of RV rallies in the past couple of years (at one here in Red Bluff, California right now) and have seen this Biker Bar in many, many toyhaulers....large and small and in weekenders and full timers.  I've still not read or heard a negative comment.

I've seen the Biker Bar before and understand that in one case someone had a roll over on their trailer and the bike was still attached to the biker bar, never came loose.

That being said, it's a GREAT option to straps and optional wheel chocks for every load etc, but in our new to us toy hauler, our 12' garage will also be part of our living area.  With the party deck ramp option, we plan on spending some time outside in the evenings.  Having the hitch permanently mounted to the floor could be a big nuisance when walking around in the garage.  In your application I would not hesitate one second on leaving it permanently installed.

I see that it bolts in with just two bolts, is that correct?

If so, I'll roll under the garage tonight and take a look around.  I'm not sure if the garage frame work is open or sealed up with the under-belly membrane like the rest of the RV.  I could see me finding a beam and mounting a tapping plate out of 2"x1" bar stock to the underside of the main frame.  Then I could just drill two holes up through the floor and remove it once I'm parked for an extended time.



Any additional advice on the B&W would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the input on my question.

[Rooster]

JC, I see your Avatar pic ahead and above your bike. 

[acevtwin]

I have a similar set up as you Dan. We have our party patio ramp door down almost all the time and use the bike / golf cart carrying area as living space. You all may hate this but I don't chock my front tire. I put it on the kick stand (with a kick stand pad on a piece of carpet) and then I tie it down. I tie all 4 corners of the bike. I would like to say it can't go anywhere and it can't tip over. I Will say it hasn't moved or tipped over "yet". Seems very solid to me or I wouldn't chance it with my expensive CVO, Toy hauler and Golf cart. And nothing left on the floor to trip over when everything is out.

[JCZ]

I've seen the Biker Bar before and understand that in one case someone had a roll over on their trailer and the bike was still attached to the biker bar, never came loose.

That being said, it's a GREAT option to straps and optional wheel chocks for every load etc, but in our new to us toy hauler, our 12' garage will also be part of our living area.  With the party deck ramp option, we plan on spending some time outside in the evenings.  Having the hitch permanently mounted to the floor could be a big nuisance when walking around in the garage.  In your application I would not hesitate one second on leaving it permanently installed.

I see that it bolts in with just two bolts, is that correct?

If so, I'll roll under the garage tonight and take a look around.  I'm not sure if the garage frame work is open or sealed up with the under-belly membrane like the rest of the RV.  I could see me finding a beam and mounting a tapping plate out of 2"x1" bar stock to the underside of the main frame.  Then I could just drill two holes up through the floor and remove it once I'm parked for an extended time.



Any additional advice on the B&W would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the input on my question.

The Biker Bar has two large plates under the floor that the BB bolts to.  These plates are threaded so that when you drop the bolts down through the biker bar plate and through the floor, the threaded plates are on the underside.  They are secured to the bottom of your trailer.  Remove the two large bolts that you see in this photo and you have a clear, level floor with no obstruction.  Just keep the ratchet and socket handy to reinstall the biker bar when you're ready to roll to the next location.


https://ktperformance.net/i-20984236-bw-trailer-hitches-biker-bar-motorcycle-latch-anchor-plate-pair.html?CATARGETID=120173980000089204&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjwtuLrBRAlEiwAPVcZBib_zD_xaufgaT9v7mhPF7mja3ubjzrwldVVyJ_iwv76l0yiFGdCIBoC35EQAvD_BwE


Many toyhauler owners use the biker bar and then set the garage up as a room or party patio once they are set up in the RV park or campground.

You might want to go on to one of the toyhauler fb groups and ask "who is using the B&W Biker Bar?  What is your experience?".   I've not saw a negative comment about this product yet!

[JCZ]

I feel you do need a stop in any kind of towing. The Biker Bar is a scary unit when only bolted to the plywood floor of a camping trailer.

It's not bolted to a plywood floor.....it's bolted to the 1/4" steel plates that are mounted under the floor (I believe they are 4"x5"x1/4").  The bike is not going anywhere.....it's mounted rigid to the RV so no suspension to loosen when you hit potholes, etc.

[JCZ]

Dan this guy just posted in the Momentum fb group.  He has a little Momentum 25G (a bumper pull toyhauler) that has a slide out.  This pic shows his bike mounted right next to the slide out when it's pulled in to the RV. 

I would suggest when ever you have the room, always mount to the opposite side of the kitchen.  The people that do the individual wheel weighing at these RV Rallies told me that an RV is always heavier on the kitchen side.

A little bumper pull Momentum 25G.....   https://www.granddesignrv.com/showroom/2020/toy-hauler/momentum-g-class-travel-trailer/floorplans/25g

[Dan_Lockwood]

JC, thanks again for the great advice...

I'll do some research this weekend.

[Dan_Lockwood]

I have the RV back to our house right now and will be receiving my Biker Bar tomorrow.

So this weekend I plan on seeing what I have to work with.  I know I have my spare tire under the curb side around the door entry way or just a little behind that.  On the other side of the garage I have two 30 gallon gas tanks, gas station and generator.

I'm also looking for a second one.  I have a '98 Honda Helix CN250 I picked up a bout four years ago and still don't have it at my house...   I'll have it home this coming spring though.  For it I would like to get the second Biker Bar, but will have to modify the clamp bar.  I've contacted B&W and will hear back from them in a day or so.

My thoughts are that if the BB grabs from the outside of the frame rails and hold just fine, why wouldn't it hold just as well if it goes inside the two lower frame tubes and then clamps outward.  I'm guessing from pictures of Helix frames, that the lower parallel tubes are between 8" and 10" wide.

Maybe the one side of the clamp bar is fixed in position and the only moving side is the right side.  So a clockwise turn would then clamp it into the Helix frame without any issues, but I'll wait to see what B&W has to say first.

If anyone has any clamp bar experience that they might care to share, I'm all eyes/ears...

Thanks for all the great input guys!

[Dan_Lockwood]

Okay, yesterday I slid under the garage of my Raptor and found that the factory tie downs are welded into the outer main "I" beams and a heavy center stamped channel.  I knew they were welded from a factory tour video I watched a few months ago.  Those are the only three spots north south that the 1" heavy plywood floor bolts to.

My B&W Biker Bar bolt in retainer plates have an outer east/west bolt pattern of 27.813" with a north/south bolt spacing of 4.5".  The plates are 1/4" thick 4" x 6" and have the usual 5/8" biker bar mounting bolts retainer nut welded to the bottom of the under bed mounting plate.

My outside "I" beams have approximately 1/4" top beam flat metal, same as the biker bar's under deck retainer plates.  The center stamped channel has around a 2" wide lower channel with two outward top flanges of around 1.25" wide full length.  The center channel appears to be around .188" or just a bit less.  The inside to inside of what I can bolt to on both the center channel and the outside "I" beam is 35.75".

There are no east/west cross beams that are in contact with the 1" garage floor.  So anything I put in will have to be heavy gauge.

Here is a mock up I did yesterday of what I have after taking some measurements and deciding on what or how I want to attach my Biker Bar to the garage floor.

I'll be up front that I may be a bit anal about this and it may end up being overkill when completed.... But I'm thinking it can't be too strong, just not strong enough.

So here is what I have.  The center stamped web channel and the outside "I" beam.  The floor they tell me is a one piece 1" thick plywood floor.  The floor is cut out for the round welded in tie downs and are flush with the top of the garage floor.

I can have a total of 35.75" wide reinforcement bars, which I think I should put in.  B&W says that any floor that will support a bike will work to mount the Biker Bar to.  Although having a bit of each under bed mounting plate in contact with a cross brace of some sort would be even better.

Because I have just the two outside "I" beams and the one center stamped channel, my under bed mounting plates will not "grab" anything but plywood.  But what I plan on doing is using 1.25" x 1.25" x .25" x 35.75" angle iron as my two cross members and as you can see from the individual end screen shots that there's only a couple inches between the under bed plate and the "I" beam or center channel.  Since the "I" beam is .25" and the under bed mounting plates are .25" thick, I plan on bolting the under bed plates through the floor and through the angles.  I'll use 5/16" carriage bolt to sandwich the plates between the floor and the angles.  The end of the angle iron at the center channel will need to have a 1/16" thick spacer between it and the channel to allow for the 1/4" under bed plate.

The "I" beam end will just be a straight forward sandwich without any spacers needed.  I'll bolt the angle iron ends to the outside "I" beam and the center channel.  Carriage bolts there as well.



Here is the blow up of the inside channel connection.



Here is the blow up of the outside "I" beam connection.



So with all that said, should I look at any other means to attach the Biker Bar to the garage floor?  I plan on using some plastic plugs to fill the 5/8" main attachment holes when I'm parked and have the inside Bike Bar removed.

I'll have ( 5/16" carriage bolts holding the under bed lower plates in place plus the added strength of the angle iron and the 1" thick plywood floor.  I could upgrade the carriage bolts to 3/8", but not really sure with the sandwich effect if the 3/8" would do any more than the 5/16" bolts.

I plan on making up enough to mount two Biker Bars into the floor.  That way I can take both Harleys or the '09 CVO and a Honda Helix.  Plan ahead I say...   Although I don't think a Honda Helix will have quite the same stress, but being able to take both Harleys to Sturgis could be fun.  I've had both bikes at Sturgis, but not the same years.  The Shovelhead ran 1500 miles my first year there without any issues, just wash and ride it.

You guys that run with the Biker Bars, do you think that I'm going to be good enough without actually having one or both of the under bed mounting plates directly bolted to a cross member?

Any suggestions or concerns would be greatly appreciated.  This is just in the pre-cut stages, so changes can still be made in the plans.

Thanks in advance.