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[jpb]

My cruise control stopped engaging recently.  After doing some research I decided to check the throttle cable roll-off switch which seemed to be a common culprit.  I pulled both spade connectors and tested the switch and it was completely open (infinite ohms).  When I rolled the throttle off with adequate pressure the switch closed (0 Ohms).  I repeated the test a dozen times or so and it worked perfectly each time.  The throttle cable is properly adjusted and there is a very slight amount of slack so it is not falsely triggering the roll-off switch.  Went for a test ride and cruise control was still not working.

I pulled one wire off of the roll-off switch and went for another ride and it the cruise worked perfectly.  I pulled the opposite wire off and went for another ride and the cruise control worked perfectly again.  It acts exactly like the switch is providing continuity or partial continuity and causing the cruise control not to engage.  I rechecked the roll-off switch and set the Digital Volt Ohm Meter to its highest megohm setting and still no continuity in its resting state and in any throttle position from idle to full throttle.  Weird.

I pulled off the cruise control connector and identified the pin-outs that lead to the roll-off switch.  I checked each of the two wires from the roll-off switch back to the connector and they had perfect continuity and then I checked them to frame ground and they were open.

I put both spade connectors back on the roll-off switch and checked the continuity between the pinouts at the connector and the circuit was absolutely, completely open with infinite ohms.

I had an old throttle cable laying around with a roll-off switch on it.  I cut the old cable and removed the old roll-off switch and it tested open when not compressed.  I connected this to the bike and went for a ride.  Cruise control would not work.  Pulled off one wire and cruise control works.  Really!

Anyway, I'm baffled and was wondering if anyone else has ever experience this?   

[Dinger1990]

I wonder if it might be as simple as the front brake switch. I had to chase that one for a bit. 

[Twolanerider]

As you've discovered you don't have to have the in-cable switch connected for the cruise to work.  Lots of bikes out there with that unhooked and more that have changed to braided cables and spent less money by getting cables without the switch.  Cruise still works fine and still turns on and off the brake light switches or the master switch.  So you don't have to chase it if you don't want to.

Dealt with one weird bike whose cruise was not working that appeared to be a bad switch (as you're seeing) but wasn't.  That one I chased for an hour before finding a chafed wire at the switch.  Chafing was on the inside.  When unplugged it wasn't in a position to give a problem.  When both wires connected it was just right to give a problem.  Good luck.

[havenolife]

as said make sure your brake light works with both foot and hand leaver

[jpb]

Hello,

Thanks for the great replies.  Thanks Twolanerider.  Been a long time.  Yes I guess i'll just take the easy way out for now.  I even ran two new wires to the pin-outs on the cruise control connector over to the cable roll-off switch ans same sh*t.  This one is just unsolvable.

The brake light works with both the hand lever and the foot lever.  If that was the problem, pulling either of the two wires off the switch wouldn't have worked.

Thanks!