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[TomBolt16CVO]

Gents,

I ride a 2016 CVO Street Glide.  Love it.  At 30,000 miles now, I am thinking it's time to follow the sage advice of so many of you: lifters, cam inner bearings and new springs.  In addition to this minimalist approach, what else would you recommend to make it bullet proof for the next 30,000 miles?  I asked a local indy shop to recommend a "bullet-proof" package this is what I received for the modest low price of $10k.  S&S Cam Chest Kit, bore/hone cylinders, valve job, new Baker compensator/drivetrain kit, Arlen Ness brake package.  All sounds great until the price.     I'm open to a cam upgrade but don't hate the SE255 cams in it.

There are no new noises, she runs great.  It's stock but for removing the catalytic converter with the Vance and Hine Power Duals, HO mufflers and a pro tune.  106HP; 126TQ.  I ride mostly solo in the country roads of San Diego, CA and take 1-2 long (1,000 mile +) rides/year.  I live in the 2,500 to 4,500 RPM range.  Don't race -- just enjoy the ride.  I will be retiring in the next year or two and want to prepare for more riding in the future.

In a perfect world, I love to hear what the Good, Better, Best packages would look like to you pros here.  I'm more of a reader than poster, but I absolutely respect the opinions on this Board.

[Ironhorse]

I will caveat this response by saying I am most certainly NOT a Harley mechanic.

My understanding is that to truly "Bulletproof" the Twin Cam engine you should start with the crank.  Either send your factory one out to be trued, balanced, welded and plugged (which is what I did), or go with something like a Dark Horse crank.  Either way you should do the Timken bearing conversion.

If you start modifying and upgrading parts on the engine and increasing power, it will have a direct affect on the crank. And since HD cranks are assembled with a press fit, with the added power you run the risk of slipping or "scissoring" the crank. This in turn will chew up all the new cams, lifters and oil pump plate.

Go to YouTube and check out the videos by Kevin Baxter at Baxter's Garage.  He explains all this stuff in detail with engine tear downs showing all the chewed up parts.

Once again this is my understanding if you truly want a "Bulletproof" engine.

[fastfreddy]

 my 2 cents .... if it aint broke ride that sucker.  my 16 RGU just turned 67k and the only thing thats been changed are the lifters (twice) and a fullsac pipe & caned map from steve. i think i got lucky when i bought this one

[JCZ]

my 2 cents .... if it aint broke ride that sucker.  my 16 RGU just turned 67k and the only thing thats been changed are the lifters (twice) and a fullsac pipe & caned map from steve. i think i got lucky when i bought this one

I feel kind of the same way.  My 2013 CVO Ultra Classic at 73,801 miles has been the most reliable motorcycle that I've ever owned.  Stock motor, lifters were changed, Fulsac header and quiet baffles and he tuned it at his shop their in Lake Havasu.  Not for top end performance but just to add a bit of fuel so that it runs a little cooler. 

I've rode this motorcycle all over the US and on both coasts.  I just returned a couple of weeks ago from a 2,400 trip in Ariz., Utah and Colorado Rockies.  It's still ready to go!

I do have plans to have Jim (hd-dude) do a top end job on it in the fall (when it cools down a bit) at his shop, Metal Dragon in Nor Cal.  An excuse for another road trip!

[bad00serg]

Another vote for just lifters and springs, and continue to enjoy that bike.  Spend $10K on a 2016, no thanks!

[Ironhorse]

I do have plans to have Jim (hd-dude) do a top end job on it in the fall (when it cools down a bit) at his shop, Metal Dragon in Nor Cal. 

JC, that's what happened to me.  At 83K I took mine to Jim for a top end job.  When he had the heads and juggs off he discovered that the crank was not rotating freely. I went over to the shop and sure enough it was hanging up ever so infrequently.  I would spin the crank and every now and then it would seize up. It was just a problem waiting to happen.  So at that point I had him do the whole job, complete with sending my crank out to be trued and balanced and all that.

It's been problem free since.

[JKM]

do lifters, valve springs, cam bearing and consider a new cam.  Check crank run-out when doing the cam.  If say less than 0.005", then just ride it.  If you change the cam, make sure to re-tune the bike.

Compensator may go at some point, but it sounds like you don't ride it hard so you should get lots of life out of the stock unit.

[TomBolt16CVO]

Thank you Ironhorse, fastfreddy, JCZ, bad00serg and JKM.  The consensus is in – just as I thought, the minimalist approach.  Change the lifters, valve springs, inner cam bearings and maybe the cam.  I’ll also have the crank run-out checked too. 

You guys are the best on this forum.  I’ll try to pay if forward!  Hope to meet some of you one of these days!

Thanks again!

[JCZ]

JC, that's what happened to me.  At 83K I took mine to Jim for a top end job.  When he had the heads and juggs off he discovered that the crank was not rotating freely. I went over to the shop and sure enough it was hanging up ever so infrequently.  I would spin the crank and every now and then it would seize up. It was just a problem waiting to happen.  So at that point I had him do the whole job, complete with sending my crank out to be trued and balanced and all that.

It's been problem free since.

Yes, I'm aware of that possibility.  Crank run out will be checked at that time.

[georgw221]

Thank you Ironhorse, fastfreddy, JCZ, bad00serg and JKM.  The consensus is in – just as I thought, the minimalist approach.  Change the lifters, valve springs, inner cam bearings and maybe the cam.  I’ll also have the crank run-out checked too. 

You guys are the best on this forum.  I’ll try to pay if forward!  Hope to meet some of you one of these days!

Thanks again!

You might like this.
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=110614.0

[HD Street Performance]

I sold my 2013 to a cvo member from Canada. Stock except cam change to andrews 54 and lifters. I installed new hd black valve seals. Compensator updated to latest Rev. These were my choices for reliability only. Crank had low runout. I changed the springs as well but that was a quality move not a reaction to the internet bs stating stock springs had too much pressure.  They do not and the beehives most use actually INCREASE  seat pressure. The stock valves are large and heavy and need more pressure than the OEM small valve heads. I don't expect anybody to follow my lead but I made changes based on the failures I saw after pulling apart hundreds of sets of 110 heads and the history of lifter failures plus collateral damage.