Update: Turns out it was the brand new battery. It’s incredibly frustrating chasing problems around when you think you’ve already eliminated at least one. Oh well, was a good time to clean everything out I guess.
Hoping to get a little confirmation or redirection before I start ordering parts. I’ve searched the forum and haven’t had much luck finding a similar occurrence so I am concerned that maybe I’m doing something wrong.
The other day, my bike would not start after being left on the tender for the previous 24 hours. Didn’t even want to crank over. Just clicked once and then wouldn’t even click. I knew the battery had been getting worse (slower crank, needed to be plugged in to tender if left for more than a couple days) so I figured it was time for a battery.
When I replaced the battery I mistakenly flipped the kill switch off before pulling the fuse and then had to deal with the security alarm until it cycled out. Thought with the FOB I would be able to reset the alarm but no luck, even after changing the battery in the FOB. After swapping out the battery, the bike would not turn on, and instead asked me to ‘Enter PIN’ even with the key fob present. I had input the PIN when I first got the bike, but couldn’t remember if I changed it or just used the previous owners. I cycled through every 5 digit number I could think of but no luck and it just acted like it wasn’t recognizing the FOB. Put old battery back in the key FOB and it worked and enabled the bike to power up, but would not crank and it was only reading 8 volts on the voltmeter, yet showed 12V at the battery. I initially thought voltage regulator might be bad (and possibly what caused the initial issue) but after looking at a schematic I found online, the regulator appears to be in parallel with the circuit so it shouldn’t affect the voltage reading at the gauge (unless it’s shorted). Has anyone had a similar experience or can suggest a test before I replace the voltage regulator?