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[TonyO77]

Anyone have any idea how many miles you can get from the 103 on a 2004 SEEG before it needs a rebuild?

[SIKBIRD]

I’ve got 65k on mine and it runs great, doesn’t smoke or use oil.  Unless you’re redlining every time you take off, you’re good for at least 100k.  With proper maintenance (regular oil changes, cam chain tensioner and inner cam bearing replacement) I would think as much as 150k could be possible.

[TonyO77]

I’m pushing 66k and I redline it a lot but no smoke and I can run with my buddies on their 117s.
I replaced the cam tensioners and cam plate , bearings, and pushrods about 7k miles ago, so I should be good.

[JCZ]

The 103 was a better motor than the 110 that I have 92k miles on.  The 04 is still one of the best paint schemes out of all of the CVO paint schemes.  The only down side to that bike was the suspension and the lack of ABS brakes.  Just my opinion.

[Ironhorse]

I got 83K out of the CVO 103 engine on my 2006. 

I took it to Jim at Metal Dragon and he rebuilt it for me keeping most things stock with a few upgrades.  I had the crank welded, plugged and balanced with the Torrington bearing, up graded the lifters and went with 583 cams. I went with the SuperTrapp SuperMeg 2-1 exhaust. I know I could have picked up a few more numbers with headwork, but I'm not interested in that.  I like to tour. 

[JCZ]

I would suggest doing a compression leak down test first.  If that's good then I wouldn't worry about it except to ride baby ride!

[TonyO77]

The bike still runs great. I was just curious what other people thought about mileage before a rebuilt was necessary. The guys in my club still can’t figure out why they have 14 more cubic inches than I do, but I can still smoke them on takeoff

[Twolanerider]

By Harley standards especially those were a relatively trouble-free engine.  With a couple of exceptions it can be an "if it ain't broke no need to fix it" experience.  Those exceptions, however, are significant.  Cam tensioners and the inner cam bearings.  The tensioners more so than the bearings.  That combination is "while you're in there" pairing though.

I always worried about the stock tensioners enough I changed them at 25k.  They often went longer but I know of too many that failed in that range or earlier.  So that was my limit.  They can be a catastrophic failure. 

Doing it regularly and with just the stock tensioners it's not an expensive job if you're doing the work yourself.  There is no such thing as in inexpensive job if paying hourly rates at the dealership.

There is one worthwhile upgrade to consider if it's never been done.  Requires more parts and more expense the first time but is a real improvement in several areas.  That would be an updated cam plate that uses the newer hydraulic tensioners.  By no means a requirement but an option to consider.  The one thing you don't do, however, is push the stock tensioners many many miles.

[TonyO77]

I did the cam plate inner cam bearings, and added adjustable push rods.
At about 50,000 I started hearing a noise coming out of the cam chest and after a little research, I discovered that the cam tensioners were an issue so I went ahead and replaced them with the upgraded hydraulic tensioners and an aftermarket cam plate.
The tools to do the job was the real expense, especially to pull the inner cam bearings, and then the tool to put them back