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[BlueFlames]

Finally got my 07 SERK back from the dealer after a month of waiting due to a broken Dyno.  After reading hundreds of threads here about mods, looking at Dyno numbers and also reading about some major engine warranty issues I decided to go with the dealers recommendation of the SE257 cam instead of a Zippers or Freedom.  Also did the V/H slip-ons and SERT.  My feeling is that the dealer will be more willing to work with me on warranty issues by going with their recommendation.  Since I paid for the extended warranty, I thought this to be the "safe" route at least for now.

Upon picking the bike up though I am less than impressed with the Dyno results.  I know that Dyno's all read different and I don't care whether my #'s are higher than anyones else's.  I DO care though that my numbers are LOWER than all others that I have seen. Since getting the Dyno sheets I have scoured this site and started collecting all the useful 110 dyno information I can find.  I have put it into a spreadsheet to use for Comparison. I will attach that sheet to a following thread.

My bike not only has pretty much the lowest numbers across the board, including as compared to some bikes with only an exhaust and SERT.  In addition it is the ONLY one that experienced any decreases as compared to the "before" numbers.  In addition there are hundreds of 103's with similar mods that seem to have higher numbers than my 110.

I have considered that this particular Dyno may just read lower than the rest.  When I look at the comparisons as well as the increases from my own baseline compared to others that just does not seem to explain it.

My questions are:  Should I be concerned or unhappy with these results?  If so, what issues should I discuss with the dealer?  They have been very good to work with and I expect them to take my concern seriously.  I would like some additional advice or knowledge in order to prepare for my conversations.

Thanks.............

Doug

[BlueFlames]

Spreadsheet

[BlueFlames]

Dyno Sheet

[BlueFlames]

AF Sheet

[Fired00d]

How does the bike feel when riding? What is the seat of the pants dyno telling you? Do you feel more TQ/HP now then you did before?

Comparing your results to other bikes on other dyno's can be misleading. They only true (IMHO) way to compare dyno runs from different bikes is if they are both run on same dyno, same day, with conditions the same (temperature/humidity/etc.).

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[BlueFlames]

I agree and was hoping my concerns would go away with a twist of the throttle.  As you know the weather here has not been cooperative lately.  Have ridden it some, but not as much as I would like.  It runs strong, but always has.  After not having it for a month and with the new pipes making it a lot louder I just can't tell any significant difference. 

Which I guess answers the question.....

[hd-dude]

A couple of observations;

The AF ratio on the before run (red) is very lean and perfectly flat at 18+. I question its validity.
The AF ration on the after run is also very lean in the 2k-2.5k range.
The VH slip ons on the stock head pipes is also limiting your performance.

Keep in mind also that you are comparing cams from Zippers and FCC that were specifically designed for the 103 motors. The 257 cam was not. I know Zippers is working on a cam specifically for the 110 and FCC had thiers out. Both are gear driven and that in itself is also good for a couple of HP.

[BlueFlames]

HD-Dude

When I picked the bike up the tech said something about the stock baffles making it hard to get an A/F so since they were just running a baseline they didn't use the sensors.     

Do you think the lean a/f in the lower rpms could be the reason my "after" numbers are lower than my stock numbers all the way up to 3200 rpm?

I understand about the 103's and the cams specifically designed for them.  All the #'s in my spreadsheet are from 110's though and some of them don't have any cam modification at all.  Still seems like I should see more than a 6 lb. torque increase between 3 & 4000.

Really think a pipe change will help those mid-range torque numbers significantly?

Thanks for the help!!!

[Talon]

I think the 257 cam really needs head work and also works better with higher than stock compression. I'm not an expert, but are you comparing numbers with people that might have made these changes?

[BlueFlames]

Talon,

Thanks for the suggestion.  Did not want to get into head work at this point, so I hope it can be improved with better tuning, other changes, etc.

Unfortunately at this point there are not that many 110 dyno sheets out there to find.  I have compared all of the ones I can find and noted the differences.  The ONE big difference is that my torque numbers are lower than ALL of them, including bikes with only a pipe change.  In addition mine is the only one I have seen where the "after" numbers are actually lower than the stock numbers anywhere in the rpm range.

[hd-dude]

HD-Dude

When I picked the bike up the tech said something about the stock baffles making it hard to get an A/F so since they were just running a baseline they didn't use the sensors.     

Do you think the lean a/f in the lower rpms could be the reason my "after" numbers are lower than my stock numbers all the way up to 3200 rpm?

I understand about the 103's and the cams specifically designed for them.  All the #'s in my spreadsheet are from 110's though and some of them don't have any cam modification at all.  Still seems like I should see more than a 6 lb. torque increase between 3 & 4000.

Really think a pipe change will help those mid-range torque numbers significantly?

Thanks for the help!!!

Not using the AF sensor clarifies the reading on the first run. That will not affect the baseline HP/TQ numbers.

The lean numbers early on could be affecting it some but not a lot. The cams that come stock in the 110 are designed to bring the torque on early. I have not yet seen the specs on them. The 257 cam is a bit of a late bloomer with its 252 intake and 260 exhaust duration. You would want a cam with durations about 240 to bring the torque up and on earlier.

At least one of the numbers in your sheet is from a 103. Roger's bike with the FCC 14 cams is a 05 SEEG. I am not sure on the others but I don't recall members with 110's making cam swaps.

Pipes would definatley help some but in all honesty I do not think the 257 cam was a good choice for this motor.

[BlueFlames]

hd-dude,

Thanks again for the advice!!! Also for straigtening me out on Roger's Dyno, I knew you did the work on that one, but for some reason I thought it was a 110.  I have looked at so many of them they are hard to keep straight.

Will post again after talking to dealer.

[Ghost Rider]

BlueFlame,

When you picked up your bike we're you instructed to re-break in the engine, and/or bring the bike back for a re-tune on the dyno after a thousand miles?  Is it possible that they did not run the bike at full power on the dyno?  Once you have the break in done and take the bike back, they will dyno tune it at 100% power, and should see higher torque and HP numbers.  Just a thought.

Later,
Ghost

[BlueFlames]

They said there was no break-in period needed and the "after" dyno run goes right to 6200, which I believe the is the rev limit with the SERT addition.

[d o g o l s]

loks good your dyno