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[Twolanerider]

The flat sided shank does not go all the way to the end of the locking pawl's shaft.  Just short of the E clip slot it starts to round out again.  That rounding is at least part of why the spring mentioned previously was a problem.  It would pull the part out such that the cable attaching arm wouldn't always engage.

The solution was to ditch the spring and use a spacer instead.  Used a 1/4" flat wisher with the hole drilled out to 11/32" and put it as shown here. 

As you see it here it the black spacer is already on the arm and on the outside of the saddlebag.  The spacer in this location on the inside kept the cable arm properly in place over the flat sides of the pawl so the mechanism could work.

[Twolanerider]

The original lock tumbers on the bikes without power locks won't work.  The tumblers are part of the locking system.  Here's the difference.  New 07 part number tumbler is on the right.  You can order them keyed to match prior year bikes.  If you do this please note that you'll have a 10 day to two week wait on your order for Harley to supply the parts keyed to match.

[Twolanerider]

Assembled it looks like this.  Note that if the latch were closed (upright) that pin would be pointing down.

This image shows the locking pawl in the unlocked position.

[Twolanerider]

This image shows the pawl in the locked position.  It simply captures the pin on the tumbler to keep you from being able to pull the latch assembly open.  Simple but effective.

Note that you can still use your keys if the system has been locked via the electrics.  Using your key will pull the cable manually.  Won't hurt a thing.  It's designed to do this.

One difference to note is that the key can now only be removed when the lock is in its center position.  You can manually lock or unlock but the key must be moved back to center from either deflection to remove.  Just a difference relative to the way the system has to work.

[Twolanerider]

Once it's all installed and you've checked operation and adjustment of anything with any movement to it the mechanism you've installed gets covered by this.  Two longer screws come with the parts package that go in the end two holes.

[Twolanerider]

Put the screws through the fabric lid stop and put the whole thing together.

[Twolanerider]

All buttoned up it will look something like this.  Note there are three harnesses inside this saddlebag.  One goes to the motor assembly driving the saddlebag locks.  The other in the rear is for the saddlebag spoiler.  The gray or silver harness forward in the saddlebag goes to the lighted saddlebag latches.  Don't let the other harnesses confuse things.  They aren't part of what you'll be doing here.

[Twolanerider]

There is enough harness length coming from the motor that this works as a convenient place to tie off the harness you're bringing to the back of the bike.

The saddlebag catch seen here is the forward catch.  Just in front of the shock.

Note that the harness coming off the motor is terminated.  Its wire terminals are already installed (the only ones you won't have to crimp yourself in the entire project).  But their outer housing is not yet pushed on.

I had a rubber grommet assortment here already.  So my easiest solution was to pick one that most closely matched the O.D. of the two wires and their wire wrap that needed to escape the saddlebag.  Then just drill a hole in the bag to match the capture side of the grommet. 

A little packet of grommets is cheap at any parts store.  Would recommend this rather than the larger plastic part supplied in the parts kit.

After the hole is drilled and grommet is installed stick the wires through.  Push on the connector.  And, voila, all hooked up.

One thing to note here.  Be sure you get the two wires oriented correctly relative to how you made this connector's mate.  If you get it backwards the bag would lock when you wanted it to unlock and vice versa.

[Twolanerider]

Once the terminals are pushed through the outer housings don't forget to plug the pin locks on the inside (the little orange bugger).  I mention it because someone who shall remain nameless forget it in one of the four locations you use them on the rear of the bike and bent a terminal.

[Twolanerider]

Note the position of the motor assembly in the outboard rear quarter of the saddelbag in this picture.  The motor housings come with two sided tape already attached.  If you peel it off to stick them down do each side in the outboard rear location.

An option part to this installation would be the new 07 fitted saddlebag liners.  They have a notch for the motor housing and cable.  That notch positions the parts as shown here.

At least as of yet I've not acquired those fitted liners.  Wanted to see whether the originals could be used or not.  If you happen to have the flannel type liners from Drag Specialties that have been around for many years you won't have any problem at all.  They are flexible enough to accommodate the new parts.

If you've got the Harley fitted liners you'll have to cut them to accommodate the new parts though.  Have to cut out for the motor housing and notch along the cable path.   I did that then created a patch with some plasti-foam material that came from Hobby Lobby.  Total extra expense was $10.00.  Still works fine.  Even looks ok.  $10.00 seemed a better option than the $110.00 that the 07 liners would have cost.

[Twolanerider]

Bag on, all parts in the new system completely installed.  All harness work complete and tidied up.  This bag has been locked electrically.  Houston, we are ready for launch countdown.

[Twolanerider]

Parts list if you're interested.  Probably a good idea to get extra of the terminals in case you screw up a crimp (or three or eight).  For whatever reason Zanotti's was much cheaper on this stuff than were other dealers I checked.

[HWYMAN1]

Was reminded this evening that this had never been posted after it came up in discussion in another thread a couple of weeks ago.  If anyone is interested in retrofitting the power saddlebag locks from the 2007 bikes in to previous models it's not a terribly difficult thing to do.  Remainder of this thread will illustrate the install and detail the do-s and don't-s.

First thing to mention is the parts to do the job are surprisingly few in notated HD part numbers.  Also surprisingly inexpensive (relative to common HD standards on such things).  Ordered from Zanotti (far and away the cheapest) the entire parts list was approximately $275.00.  Only costs above that were a few bucks worth of wire.

That wire, however, is the only part that might push some people off this task.  At least right now Harley will sell all the mechanical parts, motors, etc.  They don't have a separate part number for the wire harness to tie it all together though.

Even though it is effectively a stand-alone harness I assume it must be supplied on the SEUCs wrapped within the main harness's insulator.  No part number for the saddlebag lock harness.  So you've got to build your own.  Fortunately it's a simple little harness.  Even more fortunately you can find a schematic for it. 

That schematic is the image attached to this post.  Notes are added to the schematic in four places.  One is a hand drawn diagram of the relays.  You'll use two of these.  They are identical parts.  They are wired differently.  But the relays themselves are identical.

Note the two legs marked as ground wires.  In the larger schematic page they end up in different locations.  Don't let that worry you.  Ground is ground.  You're making your own harness anyway.  So bring them out of the harness wrap close to a good ground point and bolt them down at the same place.  No big deal.  I grounded mine at the bolt on the right side of the frame close to the cruise control switch in the throttle cable.

Another leg is marked as the power wire.  You don't want this hot all the time.  You only want it hot when you've turned the switch on.  If you walk away from the bike with switch unlocked now anyone will be able to turn the switch on and push the button to unlock your saddlebags.  Just something to keep in mind.

I powered it from the back of the lighter.  That location is already fused in a place that doesn't require pulling the fairing.  There is no draw from the new locks during running operation of the bike.  So it's an easy and obvious place to power the system.

Last note is of a diode that must be installed between the legs that run back to the saddlebags.  The motors in the saddlebags operating these locks don't have separate ground, lock and unlock wires.  Just two legs run to them.  With the relays used as they are those two legs alternate between grounding and lock or unlock functions.  Because of that wiring scheme you need this diode installed between those legs.

Don,
that is a great detail written account of "how to".you reallly should consider doing this for harley and all their parts!!! With your instructions even somone as ham fisted as me could make it work!!!!! john
PS do they work the way you thought?

[hdnut]

Nice post Twolane , another sweet job well done!!!

[Twolanerider]

Don,
that is a great detail written account of "how to".you reallly should consider doing this for harley and all their parts!!! With your instructions even somone as ham fisted as me could make it work!!!!! john
PS do they work the way you thought?

Thanks John.  A few of us had asked about this while it was a work in progress.  So it seemed a good idea to show enough detail to allow as many as possible the option of doing it themselves should they be so inclined.  There is a certain small satisfaction to having something there that Harley says you can't have yet  .  That it's also actually very functional is a nice bonus  .

Do the work as expected?  Well....., pretty much.  Before getting in to it too deeply I'd just assumed (based on nothing other than the assumption) that there'd be three wire runs to each lock.  One each for lock, unlock and ground.  The actually put my glasses on to look at the schematic and saw how they'd done it.  So that was a difference.  Not a big deal.  But a difference.

The only downside is that it'll become more important to remember to lock the ignition switch with the key when you walk away from the bike.  Otherwise (even if the bags are locked manually) someone could just walk up, turn on the switch, push the button and unlock the bags.

Granted, if we walked away and left the switch unlocked we probably left the saddlebags unlocked before too.  And I'm actually pretty good about locking the bike if it's unattended.  But it's something to keep in mind.

The obvious alternative would have been to use a remote control system rather than the stock relays.  Would not have been any more difficult to do and the parts aren't any larger physically.  So no problem there either.  Then only someone with the correct keyfob could lock and unlock.

Even have a kit here from Dakota Digital to do it with that was intended for another task.  Almost used it.  But then realized I actually wanted to use the OE switch in the system to show off the stealth install a little.  Otherwise no one would ever know it's there  .