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[kona76]

So, I have been avoiding my OCD for over a month now. That won't last too long though. This round of upgrades, I chose not to score some chrome stuff, and went to my new engine (2005 with 7500 miles). Hopefully the attached photo is the invoice for my SEFB's upgrades. The Woods cam and gear setup started the project at $2, 200.00.

Now with additional equipment I am up to $5172.84 Timken bearing, Fueling Oil Pump etc. plus labor. Over 5K and no chrome!!.

I think the price is high, somebody else think so too?

[SPIDERMAN]

To help you compare, I spent $4,000 upgrading LD from a 96" to a 103". That included new Screamin Eagle performance cylinder heads,cylinders,pistons,gaskets,cams,bearings,pushrods, high tensile stud kit, SERT, Screamin Eagle Slip-on mufflers and labor. And the work was done at a H-D dealership, not exactly the least expensive place around for shop rates.

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[kona76]

To help you compare, I spent $4,000 upgrading LD from a 96" to a 103". That included new Screamin Eagle performance cylinder heads,cylinders,pistons,gaskets,cams,bearings,pushrods, high tensile stud kit, SERT, Screamin Eagle Slip-on mufflers and labor. And the work was done at a H-D dealership, not exactly the least expensive place around for shop rates.

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Spiderman,

Wow. I started off  trying different stealers and found a great place for parts, but the same upgrades from my latest was quoted $3,500 more on this work, plus a "We didn't do this to your bike, Mike" attitude. Ya know? Plausible deniability, works every time.

[nidan]

Sounds familiar , of the 6k plus I've spent on my WG3 all but the seat and grips have been for performance goodies.  They have plenty of goodies everywhere else

[AUSSIE_FLSTFSE]

So, I have been avoiding my OCD for over a month now. That won't last too long though. This round of upgrades, I chose not to score some chrome stuff, and went to my new engine (2005 with 7500 miles). Hopefully the attached photo is the invoice for my SEFB's upgrades. The Woods cam and gear setup started the project at $2, 200.00.

Now with additional equipment I am up to $5172.84 Timken bearing, Fueling Oil Pump etc. plus labor. Over 5K and no chrome!!.

I think the price is high, somebody else think so too?

It looks pretty close to 50/50, parts/labour. I would think you could have got the parts a bit cheaper, the hourly rate @ $75 seems fair also, but the amount of hours could be a bit high!. But are you happy? what does it go like? what is the CR now? What did they do to the heads. Going to all that trouble another 5 - 600 (for new jugs & case boring)you could have gone to 113

Cheers
Aussie

[kona76]

It looks pretty close to 50/50, parts/labour. I would think you could have got the parts a bit cheaper, the hourly rate @ $75 seems fair also, but the amount of hours could be a bit high!. But are you happy? what does it go like? what is the CR now? What did they do to the heads. Going to all that trouble another 5 - 600 (for new jugs & case boring)you could have gone to 113

Cheers
Aussie

Aussie My Friend,

I think we're going 10.5:1 for compression, at least that was the goal. The extra money went towards the Diamond Cut for the heads. If you want to talk about hours, I still don't have my ride yet. They farm out the work and do mostly assembly, teardown, suggestions etc.

I started to go to the 113". In fact, my goal was the 120-125 torque range. I wanted a monster to pull my bloody stumps and leave my torso behind. I might have achieved this but the cost was much higher than expected. In all, I should have purchased better but for now, I just want my ride back. In Los Angeles, the days are warm (too warm) and the nights very cool; my favoirite time of the year for riding into the night. I still have 2 weeks to wait. Last year it was the surgery, lost 2.5 months. This year, the bike gets the surgery for a recovery period of 2 months and breakin again for 500 miles. That will teach me, huh?

[AUSSIE_FLSTFSE]

Aussie My Friend,

I think we're going 10.5:1 for compression, at least that was the goal. The extra money went towards the Diamond Cut for the heads. If you want to talk about hours, I still don't have my ride yet. The farm out the work and do mostly assembly, teardown, suggestions etc.

I started to go to the 113". In fact, my goal was the 120-125 torque range. I wanted a monster to pull my bloody stumps and leave my torso behind. I might have achieved this but the cost was much higher than expected. In all, I should have purchased better but for now, I just want my ride back. In Los Angeles, the days are warm (too warm) and the nights very cool; my favoirite time of the year for riding into the night. I still have 2 weeks to wait. Last year it was the surgery, lost 2.5 months. This year, the bike gets the surgery for a recovery period of 2 months and breakin again for 500 miles. That will teach me, huh?

Kona,

10.5 & your stock type heads dont have provision for compression releases, you may find the need for a 2.0kw or 2.4kw starter  only another 5 bengies!!

Cheers
Aussie

PS: Starting to a bit cooler here now.(60's in the early am & peak in the early 80's) But to make things worse I am just off to the airport to go to Auckland (NZ) for a 5 days. I will find out about cold over there probably run around 50 - 60F. Thats starting to get a little to fresh for me!

[kona76]

Kona,

10.5 & your stock type heads dont have provision for compression releases, you may find the need for a 2.0kw or 2.4kw starter  only another 5 bengies!!

Cheers
Aussie

PS: Starting to a bit cooler here now.(60's in the early am & peak in the early 80's) But to make things worse I am just off to the airport to go to Auckland (NZ) for a 5 days. I will find out about cold over there probably run around 50 - 60F. Thats starting to get a little to fresh for me!

I have many doubts about the bike's builder forecasting capabilities, I'll ask them while there is still time and the engines out of the bike. Thanks for the heads up {again}.

[SPIDERMAN]

Aussie My Friend,

I think we're going 10.5:1 for compression, at least that was the goal. The extra money went towards the Diamond Cut for the heads. If you want to talk about hours, I still don't have my ride yet. They farm out the work and do mostly assembly, teardown, suggestions etc.

I started to go to the 113". In fact, my goal was the 120-125 torque range. I wanted a monster to pull my bloody stumps and leave my torso behind. I might have achieved this but the cost was much higher than expected. In all, I should have purchased better but for now, I just want my ride back. In Los Angeles, the days are warm (too warm) and the nights very cool; my favoirite time of the year for riding into the night. I still have 2 weeks to wait. Last year it was the surgery, lost 2.5 months. This year, the bike gets the surgery for a recovery period of 2 months and breakin again for 500 miles. That will teach me, huh?

It is my understanding that using stock heads, 10.5 / 1 is theoretical compression while actual compression hovers at close to 10 / 1. As such, the use of compression releases is not a must, but would certainly add to the life of your stock starter. Since the bike is going to be down to the cylinder base anyway, why not have the heads machined for the compression releases ? I've got them in my 07 103 build-up and have not as yet seen any sign my stock starter is getting tired. Remember, it's not how much you spend, it's how you spend it.
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[kona76]

Ok, I accept the values of total dollar vs. dollars spent wisely.

I was at the builder this evening. I asked about the compression and wear on the starter. He explained the compression release will be drilled and tapped near the spark plugs: two pushbuttons and explained to me about release making it easier for the startup.

I thought I was being wiser than some by asking: "What else makes things easier for the engine?".  That's when he sold me on Screamin Eagle roller rockers. Another $400.00. And we worry about OCD, HA ! I say. This performance upgrade is costing closer to $6,000.00. and my OCD only cost $4,500.00 last month.

I am sick with the OCD AND THE Horsepower / Torque monster. Get me a nurse. And a beer.

[SPIDERMAN]

Ok, I accept the values of total dollar vs. dollars spent wisely.

I was at the builder this evening. I asked about the compression and wear on the starter. He explained the compression release will be drilled and tapped near the spark plugs: two pushbuttons and explained to me about release making it easier for the startup.

I thought I was being wiser than some by asking: "What else makes things easier for the engine?".  That's when he sold me on Screamin Eagle roller rockers. Another $400.00. And we worry about OCD, HA ! I say. This performance upgrade is costing closer to $6,000.00. and my OCD only cost $4,500.00 last month.

I am sick with the OCD AND THE Horsepower / Torque monster. Get me a nurse. And a beer.

This is just my opinion and I may get jumped all over here, but roller rockers aren't really of much use unless you're running well in excess of .600 lift on your cams.

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[kona76]

This is just my opinion and I may get jumped all over here, but roller rockers aren't really of much use unless you're running well in excess of .600 lift on your cams.

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Think I am running .650 lift with the Woods Cam. They told me alot less friction, less noise, almost all S&S motors now come with their own Roller Rockers, smoother operation.....I heard them for over an hour. Don't quote me on the specs, I am totally not knowing the details.   

[SPIDERMAN]

Think I am running .650 lift with the Woods Cam. They told me alot less friction, less noise, almost all S&S motors now come with their own Roller Rockers, smoother operation.....I heard them for over an hour. Don't quote me on the specs, I am totally not knowing the details.   

Those are big cams for a street bike dude. If you've got the cash to pay for the roller rockers then go for it. They do reduce friction and noise. Let us know how this turns out and do me a favor ?  If you post a dyno chart will you post the one that shows Elapsed times for the curves. Most good shops give you 2 charts, seems like everyone on this site neglects to post or talk about the one showing ET. That's what you notice more than anything when you have your bike amped up. How quickly it does what it does. That's what wins the red light challenge. That's why I'm always saying dyno charts are for bench racing and not for where the rubber meets the road. sorry I'm off on a 

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[kona76]

Those are big cams for a street bike dude. If you've got the cash to pay for the roller rockers then go for it. They do reduce friction and noise. Let us know how this turns out and do me a favor ?  If you post a dyno chart will you post the one that shows Elapsed times for the curves. Most good shops give you 2 charts, seems like everyone on this site neglects to post or talk about the one showing ET. That's what you notice more than anything when you have your bike amped up. How quickly it does what it does. That's what wins the red light challenge. That's why I'm always saying dyno charts are for bench racing and not for where the rubber meets the road. sorry I'm off on a 

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Spiderman, 

I understand your request. I don't know if I have ever seen a dyno chart with an ET as a selection. I certainly will ask for one. I also want definitive results charted for the simple reason: That's why we want dyno chart results in the first place; data.

In the modern era, it's not the information that defines our next move; it is the management of collected data, then making intelligent decisions effective and more reasonable.

I will ask about the ET charts availability.

[SPIDERMAN]

A dyno chart without the ET line is essentially worthless because you have no sense of how quick the bike is. All you know is that it develops x amount of TQ at X RPMs and x amount of HP at X RPMS. What the ET chart tells you is how long it takes to get to the various points on the curve. A really good set of cams should get you to Max TQ in 3.5 seconds or under. Anything under 3 seconds and you've got one kick ass ride. Say your buddy is running 115 TQ and 105 HP but it takes 4.5 seconds for the motor to climb to that 115TQ number. Now say your bike is only running 105TQ and 100 HP but it hits the 105TQ number at 3.5 seconds. You've got him beat and beat bad. Course once he gets his revs up he pulls ahead but by then the next light turns red and you've won. This is what I mean by the redlight challenge. You're gonna win every time with lower overall numbers if you get to em quicker. Now out on the highway doing a 5th gear roll on, your buddy is gonna win and if he's smart, that's the only time he'll want to run anyone. Most guys like this will make some excuse why they don't do the redlight challenge, but in truth they know their running motors that develop those big numbers at high RPMs. Usually with long duration, high lift cams. So you see why cam grinding is such a science and knowledge of cam grinds is everything if you want a certain type of power.

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