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[arcticdude]

I added the saddlebag lid spoilers to mine and decided I really hated having 2 connectors to get the bags off.  So here's the parts list to convert the 2 connectors to a single 6 pin deutsch per side.

74106-98BK, need 2
74156-98, need 2
74146-98, need 2
74116-98BK, need 2
74190-98, need 6
741901-98, need 6                            About $50 total (but I bought 10 pins instead of 6)

The first 4 numbers are the plastic connectors and associated locks, while the last 2 numbers are the actual electrical connectors.  The only thing I don't have so far is the dummy pins to plug the remaining hole in each connector.  I've got them someplace, just ahven't found them yet.  The existing lock connectors do not need any wiring changes, only swapped to the larger 6 pin housing, while the spoiler wiring needs the flat pins changed to the round style.  You use half of the parts on one side and the remaining for the other side.  It's taken about 1.5 hrs from absolute start to typing this note, and I'm pretty anal about my electrics, so I also did some rearranging of the existing to suit my tastes.  At least now when a tech rips the bags off, I've only got to fix one type of connection!

[naitram]

 

[Twolanerider]

Did a conversion like that a long time ago to combine the spoiler's connector and the connector for the lighted saddlebag latches.  Was nice and convenient having it all in one plug.  Used a four wire deutsch as that was all that was needed to carry the three lighting functions and a ground for both lights.

Then, later, added the power saddlebag locks.  Now got two plugs again.....

(So now there's a Saturday afternoon project for next winter  )

[arcticdude]

I thought about combining the grounds, but since electrical problems often result from a loss of ground I decided to keep things completely separate and use the 2 grounds.

[Twolanerider]

I thought about combining the grounds, but since electrical problems often result from a loss of ground I decided to keep things completely separate and use the 2 grounds.

As long as the connection is good it won't matter.  It's called "common" for a reason.  The ground I chose was the one supplied back through the accessory harness. 

At the time I was wanting to fit it all in a four pin connector.  Now I'm even more pleased they're combined as later when the power lock connections get moved over it will all fit in a six pin connection.  The saddlebag locks are a polarity switching dedicated pair downstream from a set of diode protected relays.  So no commons in them to share.

[arcticdude]

You may call it a common, but once you draw too much amperage through a given wire size you're still creating problems.  If you only needed one ground, why not just have one long wire with multiple taps as it snakes it's way all over the bike?  Because it's a disaster waiting to happen.  You'll continually be chasing ground problems or overheating problems.  I fully agree with combining grounds when the situation calls for it, and given the likelyhood of trying to unlock and having the brakes on with all the other lites is rather small, there shouldn't be a problem.  But LEDs can be strange birds sometimes, that's why I chose to have independant grounds in this situation.  My goal was to only eliminate the double connectors.  The reversing polarity with downstream diodes only creates 2 grounds and 2 hots with only 2 wires.  You've still got the same loss of ground problem that can occur- and typically does at the most inopertune moment.

[Twolanerider]

You may call it a common, but once you draw too much amperage through a given wire size you're still creating problems.  If you only needed one ground, why not just have one long wire with multiple taps as it snakes it's way all over the bike?  Because it's a disaster waiting to happen.  You'll continually be chasing ground problems or overheating problems.  I fully agree with combining grounds when the situation calls for it, and given the likelyhood of trying to unlock and having the brakes on with all the other lites is rather small, there shouldn't be a problem.  But LEDs can be strange birds sometimes, that's why I chose to have independant grounds in this situation.  My goal was to only eliminate the double connectors.  The reversing polarity with downstream diodes only creates 2 grounds and 2 hots with only 2 wires.  You've still got the same loss of ground problem that can occur- and typically does at the most inopertune moment.

John, in that case it's two separate grounds (initially) because it's two separate accessories added independently and without consideratoin of each other.  So of course they've got their own runs.  Neither are OE installation and each is designed for after the fact and separate installation.  So of course they are separate runs.  But it's only two little LED lights.  Light draw.  Very light draw.  And well within the tolerances for the 16-18g that is the common on the accessory circuit. 

There really is no issue with running them together.  If the bike had been originally designed with both the spoiler and latch lights as OE installations the OE harness would have only run one ground to each side and split it off inside.  Guaranteed.  They do it elsewhere after all.

In our case, however, the separate accessories have their own dedicated harnesses and runs simply because each is expected to be installed as a stand-alone.  The two aren't considered in tandem. 

That doesn't mean we can't clean it up and make it easier for our own particular application.  Doing such won't cause any particular problem later (assuming our crimps and other work is satisfactory of course [and mine is]).  No reason to worry unnecessarily over such things.  Alternatively, even if there is some problem later it's only one run to track down rather than two.  So troubleshooting is quicker.

[Hoist!]

I'm not so good with this electrical stuff. My painter is installing the B/I Saddle Bag Lid Spoilers as part of the paint job he's doing on my Hard Bags for the SERK. Does anyone have wiring diagrams and the simplest way to wire these on a SERK3? I of course need to remove them easily, but don't mind disconnecting 2 plugs. I'd rather avoid drilling holes in the bags though? Anyone have a simple, concise solution for wiring these? TIA.

Hoist!

[arcticdude]

Hoist,
I don't know if you can get away with out drilling holes in the inside wall of the bags.  You could try closing a cover with the wire running between the lid & bag, but I think you'll find that it's either too much initially or you'd end up slowly "cutting" the wire from repeated open/close cycles.  The bags are ABS and drill easily, compared to the fiberglass ones.  I've done 4 sets so far.  It's tough to decide to drill (and has been each time) but once you do, it works just fine.  I've always taped my holes, so have never had a problem with paint chipping.  I'd definitely recommend doing the drilling before the painting if that's an option.  If you have electric locks, the hole for those can be used for the lights too.  I opened up the grommet on mine, so both wires (locks and lights) would go through without too much constriction. I also copmbined connectors, so I've only got one hole and one connection per bag.  The accessory connector under the seat has a 12V, a brake and a ground which you plug the harness into to power the lights.  You should be able to get it all straight real easy.

[Hoist!]

Hoist,
I don't know if you can get away with out drilling holes in the inside wall of the bags.  You could try closing a cover with the wire running between the lid & bag, but I think you'll find that it's either too much initially or you'd end up slowly "cutting" the wire from repeated open/close cycles.  The bags are ABS and drill easily, compared to the fiberglass ones.  I've done 4 sets so far.  It's tough to decide to drill (and has been each time) but once you do, it works just fine.  I've always taped my holes, so have never had a problem with paint chipping.  I'd definitely recommend doing the drilling before the painting if that's an option.  If you have electric locks, the hole for those can be used for the lights too.  I opened up the grommet on mine, so both wires (locks and lights) would go through without too much constriction. I also copmbined connectors, so I've only got one hole and one connection per bag.  The accessory connector under the seat has a 12V, a brake and a ground which you plug the harness into to power the lights.  You should be able to get it all straight real easy.

Thanks for the info. No power locks. And there were never Hard Bags on the bike before. Do you have any step by step instructions/diagrams for me to go by. Also, what is the exact location for the holes in each bag and what size hole? I'll have the painter drill them before painting them. Thanks a lot! Hoist!

[arcticdude]

Hoist,
Once I get home I can either fax you a set of directions, email them to you or bring them with me to Nelson.  Which would you prefer?
Arctic

PS: The hole is drilled about 2" down and just in front of the shock cut out.  You can put it anyplace you want/fell it works best.  A precise location isn't needed.  Just someplace where you can make the electrical connection.

[Chief]

Thanks for the info. No power locks. And there were never Hard Bags on the bike before. Do you have any step by step instructions/diagrams for me to go by. Also, what is the exact location for the holes in each bag and what size hole? I'll have the painter drill them before painting them. Thanks a lot! Hoist!

Hoist, don't over-complicate this. It's real simple. The instructions will spell it out how to do the mechanical and electrical installation. Be patient and everything will be cool when you get your shiny new bags.

[Hoist!]

Thanks for the info gang! I spoke to Gene and he's used these before. He plans on drilling the holes for the wiring before final painting. I asked him to include all the paperwork that comes with the Spoilers, so I'll have the Wiring Diagrams. Hopefully, it'll be as easy as you guys say to do the wiring. Someone said you use the Aux power connection under the seat. I have a 12V Cig lighter adapter under there too. Is there a splitter for that Aux power connection under the seat? Thanks again! Hoist!

[Chief]

Thanks for the info gang! I spoke to Gene and he's used these before. He plans on drilling the holes for the wiring before final painting. I asked him to include all the paperwork that comes with the Spoilers, so I'll have the Wiring Diagrams. Hopefully, it'll be as easy as you guys say to do the wiring. Someone said you use the Aux power connection under the seat. I have a 12V Cig lighter adapter under there too. Is there a splitter for that Aux power connection under the seat? Thanks again! Hoist!

Probabaly not a splitter installed, but there is a splitter in the P&A book.

[arcticdude]

Or you can make your own splitter with as many tails on it as you want.  I had a 1 to 4 on the 01 Ultra.  Worked great.  The factory goes 1 to 2, about $20.