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[kona76]

So, how do the other mechanical types; ya know, the ones who are always messin' around with Air Flow, Squish, CAms, SERT and other controllers, Pistons and engine builders....how do you do the break in period so often? I have upgraded an engine that was semi "new" and upgraded to what I think is pretty damn good parts. Don't ya'all have to do the pistons "ring seating" properly every time you tune up with most mods?

I am questioning the 500 miles or more break in period. Originally, when I purchased the FLSTFSE I was explained the benefits and agree with that logic. So how do the wizard's who change their cams like they change their socks go about breaking in and waiting for the 500 miles to pass, how do ya'all go about the redundant long waiting time.

And for that matter how long do you actually wait? 500 miles was the consensus and it will take days upon days to be able to stretch our rides out?

What RPM limit do you all put on while in the break in period? I am staying under 25,000 until 100Miles leaves the building.

[Fired00d]

So, how do the other mechanical types; ya know, the ones who are always messin' around with Air Flow, Squish, CAms, SERT and other controllers, Pistons and engine builders....how do you do the break in period so often? I have upgraded an engine that was semi "new" and upgraded to what I think is pretty damn good parts. Don't ya'all have to do the pistons "ring seating" properly every time you tune up with most mods?

I am questioning the 500 miles or more break in period. Originally, when I purchased the FLSTFSE I was explained the benefits and agree with that logic. So how do the wizard's who change their cams like they change their socks go about breaking in and waiting for the 500 miles to pass, how do ya'all go about the redundant long waiting time.

And for that matter how long do you actually wait? 500 miles was the consensus and it will take days upon days to be able to stretch our rides out?

What RPM limit do you all put on while in the break in period? I am staying under 25,000 until 100Miles leaves the building.

A cam swap doesn't require a break-in period. You can have the cams changed and bike dyno'd at the same time.  Piston change/ring job is different. There is a break-in period for the rings to seat to the cylinder walls. Usually anywhere from 500 - 1000 miles for that.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[kona76]

A cam swap doesn't require a break-in period. You can have the cams changed and bike dyno'd at the same time.  Piston change/ring job is different. There is a break-in period for the rings to seat to the cylinder walls. Usually anywhere from 500 - 1000 miles for that.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Goes to show ya the vast extent of my knowledge, huh? So, the question goes further to Rings, Pistons and the such who do multiple changes and results oriented testing. That is a lot of ground work, still. Probably do multiple design testing simultaneously amongst simular platforms (88's, 103's, 113's etc..) . Is that correct?

[Taildraggerdave]

Hello Mike,

You could try heat cycling your engine instead of the 500 mile break in.  The lower end of the engine is already broken in.  The new cams will break in or fail within 15 minutes so you'll have that covered pretty quick.  The only thing you really are breaking in now is the piston and rings.  Did the cylinders get replaced or just honed?  I see in the other thread that you got new pistons to go along with it.

Heat cycling is getting the entire engine up to temp then shutting it off and letting it cool completely.  Then repeat.  and repeat again. 
This allows all the parts in the engine to develop their relationship with each other.  I will agree that as your engine runs longer (miles), your rings will wear in better and performance will go up.

Run the engine for 5 minutes then cool.  Then 10 minutes and cool, etc.  Use a big house or garage fan to keep air blowing over the engine.  The main thing to remember when riding on the new engine is to avoid lugging the engine as this causes cylinder pressures to skyrocket.

Lastly, I've broken in a few Cessna airplane engines and you know how that is done?  Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes to check for leaks and anything obvious.  Shut it down for a few minutes to check for leaks, etc again.  Call the tower, haul ass over to the runway and take off.  Fly the thing at full power for an hour and land.  This is a bit of a tangent and there are higher performance airplane engines that would require a somewhat different approach but I am just trying to illustrate how many different methods there are to "break in an engine"

Dave

[Hoist!]

Hello Mike,

You could try heat cycling your engine instead of the 500 mile break in.  The lower end of the engine is already broken in.  The new cams will break in or fail within 15 minutes so you'll have that covered pretty quick.  The only thing you really are breaking in now is the piston and rings.  Did the cylinders get replaced or just honed?  I see in the other thread that you got new pistons to go along with it.

Heat cycling is getting the entire engine up to temp then shutting it off and letting it cool completely.  Then repeat.  and repeat again. 
This allows all the parts in the engine to develop their relationship with each other.  I will agree that as your engine runs longer (miles), your rings will wear in better and performance will go up.

Run the engine for 5 minutes then cool.  Then 10 minutes and cool, etc.  Use a big house or garage fan to keep air blowing over the engine.  The main thing to remember when riding on the new engine is to avoid lugging the engine as this causes cylinder pressures to skyrocket.

Lastly, I've broken in a few Cessna airplane engines and you know how that is done?  Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes to check for leaks and anything obvious.  Shut it down for a few minutes to check for leaks, etc again.  Call the tower, haul ass over to the runway and take off.  Fly the thing at full power for an hour and land.  This is a bit of a tangent and there are higher performance airplane engines that would require a somewhat different approach but I am just trying to illustrate how many different methods there are to "break in an engine"

Dave

Great post Dave. This can't be stated better! That's exactly how to heat cycle an engine. My only comment is that the dealer should have already done this for you. Check with them. It's part of a top end job. Hoist!

[kona76]

Hello Mike,

You could try heat cycling your engine instead of the 500 mile break in.  The lower end of the engine is already broken in.  The new cams will break in or fail within 15 minutes so you'll have that covered pretty quick.  The only thing you really are breaking in now is the piston and rings.  Did the cylinders get replaced or just honed?  I see in the other thread that you got new pistons to go along with it.

Heat cycling is getting the entire engine up to temp then shutting it off and letting it cool completely.  Then repeat.  and repeat again. 
This allows all the parts in the engine to develop their relationship with each other.  I will agree that as your engine runs longer (miles), your rings will wear in better and performance will go up.

Run the engine for 5 minutes then cool.  Then 10 minutes and cool, etc.  Use a big house or garage fan to keep air blowing over the engine.  The main thing to remember when riding on the new engine is to avoid lugging the engine as this causes cylinder pressures to skyrocket.
Lastly, I've broken in a few Cessna airplane engines and you know how that is done?  Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes to check for leaks and anything obvious.  Shut it down for a few minutes to check for leaks, etc again.  Call the tower, haul ass over to the runway and take off.  Fly the thing at full power for an hour and land.  This is a bit of a tangent and there are higher performance airplane engines that would require a somewhat different approach but I am just trying to illustrate how many different methods there are to "break in an engine"

Dave

What's shakin' Dave? Long time no see. Hey, what exactly do you mean by "Lugging the Engine"?

I had the heat cycle procedure done before I picked up my ride. The guys at the shop explained my break in will be a continuous type of heat cycling as the rides get longer per day. I've put almost 400 on it already, and just getting some more miles after this post.

Hope you can come by some day soon. Love to see ya.

Kona76
Mike K.

[Taildraggerdave]

I would say any continuous running below 2000 rpm is lugging.  Anytime the engine is close to pinging would be lugging at least as far as this example is concerned.  Glad to hear the bike is back on the road and running well.

[kona76]

I would say any continuous running below 2000 rpm is lugging.  Anytime the engine is close to pinging would be lugging at least as far as this example is concerned.  Glad to hear the bike is back on the road and running well.

Thanks for defining the lugging part.


I would like to say here that you have a mighty fine looking ride. An inspiration to all of us.


Kona76
Mike K.