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[Coolbreeze]

Aaacckk!  This afternoon my bike developed an annoying rattle, first when I got off the throttle, and then getting off the throttle and when sitting at an idle.  It turns out that the rear brake pedal is now coming in contacts with the forward exhaust shroud as the engine flops around at an idle.  (not so much running down the road, but it's hard to get my head all the way down there to see how close it is.) 
So,
If i put a little floor jack under the motor, I can lift it away form the pedal pretty easy.

I can't find an adjustment on the pedal/master cylinder to adjust the problem away.

I can't find anything loose.

I don't have a manual...(that will get fixed next week... or this weekend on ebay)

My wrench is on a road trip to parts unknown....(Like I SHOULD be, but I seem to have a problem!)


Any words of wisdom guys?  I don't see any BIG issues with changing out the motor mount if I can confirm that that is the problem,  UNLESS that throws the motor out of alignment or some silly chit that I don't know about, (because I was too stupid to pick up a manual....dammit!)

HELP?

[Twolanerider]

Shannon, if it wasn't doing it before and it is doing it now the motor mount is most likely culprit.  There's not an adjustment for pedal position.  Those mounts have been something of a weak spot (assuming it's still your original mount).

If memory serves there have been two revisions to the motor mount.  So look for a B part number.  Alternatively, a better piece than the the stock mount is a Velva mount if you can find one within your time frame.  They're a bit more hassle to install though.  Have to clearance a little (GRIND!) on the bracket that holds the oil cooler in place.  Not a big deal actually.  Just a bit of extra effort.

By the way, I just left the dentist.  So if none of this makes any sense blame him.

[Coolbreeze]

What happens if I keep riding it?

[Twolanerider]

What happens if I keep riding it?

Probably not too much.  Not like you want to head out cross country or be doing wheelies with it.  But a lot of busted front motor mounts get ridden for a long time before someone notices they're broken.

Lay on your belly and look under the front.  See what you can eyeball.

[Fired00d]

I noticed you mentioned you didn't have a manual, and I wasn't sure if you needed a part number. Here is what the front motor mount part # is for my bike 16207-79B if that helps you any.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

I noticed you mentioned you didn't have a manual, and I wasn't sure if you needed a part number. Here is what the front motor mount part # is for my bike 16207-79B if that helps you any.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Have I mentioned lately that I like the dentist  .

[Fired00d]

Have I mentioned lately that I like the dentist  .

You are a sick man. You need help. Let me guess you're adding some liquid spirits on top of what he's already done??

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

You are a sick man. You need help. Let me guess you're adding some liquid spirits on top of what he's already done??

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

thinkin' about goin' for a ride too     


But I digress.  Shannon, look all around that big bolt that goes up through.  Look for signs of a busted mount.  Some (most) you can see if you recognize what you're looking at.  It should give you a decent idea of what's going on.  If you've got a helper have someone else rev the bike a bit against a load while you watch it.  Then you'll really see if or how much the engine is moving.

[Fired00d]

Looking at parts manual looks like to replace motor mount you need to get the pressure/weight off the mount, take the bolt out, insert new mount, replace bolt and your done. Is that correct or what does it take to replace it using OEM parts?

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[grc]

In order to get access to the bolts for the mount to the frame, you need to remove the oil cooler bracket and the voltage regulator.  You can leave the cooler attached to the hoses, just tie it up to the frame crossmember to keep it out of the way.  Remove the lower stabilizer link to the engine, do not loosen the jam nuts or change the adjustment of the link.  As long as you keep the link adjustment unchanged, you won't need to have the powertrain realigned.  With the bike sitting level, use a floor jack to raise the engine just enough to slide the mount out after removing all the bolts.  Slide the new mount into position, loose install the mount bolts, reinstall the stabilizer link if it was removed, align the mount side to side so the center bolt is centered in the mount without binding (the mount holes in the frame crossmember are slotted side to side), tighten the mount to frame bolts and then the center bolt.  If you use the Velva-Ride mount, you will need to purchase longer mount to frame bolts since the Velva-Ride has a 1/2" thick plate where the stocker is maybe 1/16" thick.  As Don noted, you will also need to modify the oil cooler bracket slightly with a grinder to clear the V-R plate.

Jerry

[DCFIREMANN]

Jerry glad to see you are back. You have been missed. Keep up the good work.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[displacing air]

Coolbreeze,

Had exactly the same problem when bike had only 5k on it. Pipes was rattlin
against the brake pedal at idle and felt quite a bit more vibration at idle and lower
rpm running. looked under the motor and the rubber piece was comin apart.
Took it to dealer and they brought it in changed it on the spot. This was on a 06
SEUC. I have no idea how long it had been going...but when it completely goes...
you know it in a hurry.

DisAir

[Coolbreeze]

ahhhh....dammit!      so here's where I am now.

I may "have" to ride the weekend, so waiting ain't an option...   so I go pick up a "c" model mount to tide me over till I get the Velva model.  (that whole "velva" name sounds kinda pornish.... don't it...   anyway)     So I go get it.  AND I GOT A CLYMER BOOK!  woohoo!  I got a boook!   (and it had a good picture, which is typically all I need.  So I pull out the old mount...   (after I loosen up the mount tab on the front of the motor and rotated it out of the way because I was lifting the whole bike when the heads ran up against the frame before the stupid mount would clear because the bottom side of the mount is SSOOOOO deep,)  Then I throw in the new mount, and VIOLA!  same problem, only worse!   Hmmmmm......     Pull out the master cylinder, take it apart, look over the internal stops....    looks like it should, no adjustment,,,  no missing, bent, folded, spindled or mulilated pieces...   Back together with all of that chit....  hhmmmmm.......           SSOOOOOO........     I took a REALLY big screw driver, (read as crow bar), and pushed the exhaust heat shield back away from the offending brake pedal and said...   "stay outa my way, beotch!"   I don't know what the real problem is/was, or if there really was a problem at this juncture,   "could the heat shield have moved?  Did the exhaust itself move a little bit?   do I have a bent frome?  is the new mount too short and I do have a problem and don't know it?    Acckkk!!!!    Everything SEEMS to be okay at this point.   I'll go ride it later and see how it acts....       Thanks for the input you guys...   

funny enough.....   this was the first place I went cuz I knew I get the straight poop here....       god I love this place....   The guys at the stealer said "drop it off this evening, we should havve it back to you by friday next..... "   hmmm, NOT!   

cheers!
 

[Twolanerider]

Ride and enjoy Shannon.  Have a good weekend.

[displacing air]

Do you have kids around the house...maybe one bumped it a little and
didnt fess up...that clearance is so small on mine. If you had the rattle without
the excess shakin...maybe it just got bumped ?

I have teenagers and they are like tornados with legs!

DisAir