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[Twolanerider]

Interesting. Seems like when you disconnected one sensor, it continued to try and tune it. When it smoothed, it must have found the correction for the (missing) sensor.  Must have taken a little time to revert back to open loop when it discovered it was missing. Wonder if the autotune tried to correct it, and when it found it was trying to correct outside of a known parameter due to the missing sensor, it then switched to open. Or for some other reason I do not know..  So I guess my test will be to disconnect at a cruise config, let it try and fix itself, then shut it off.

Did you have an opportunity to do it at anything other than idle? I think if done a a higher rpm, it may take it way off, but still rideable, and then rear up with problems at restart.

If it did revert to open loop, then perhaps trying to restart the bike would not be possible. Especially if in a mode other than idle when it occurs.  Perhaps it would have converted to open loop, but not before it skewed the settings for that one cylinder.  Worth a try, but I'll have my good map handy to put back in, and I will also do a monitor log to see the results.  Hmmmm.  Wonder if the software allows activating closed loop with one sensor out of the 'loop'.  Wonder if it makes a difference to the software if the front or rear is disconnected independently too.   Oh boy, another experiment...  This started when I saw one of our members had a shutdown, and no restart due to a bad sensor.  Lots of trouble, and no information. Perhaps this will be one of those things to keep in the brain as a troubleshooter in the event it happens to one of us that use.......it.



Rhino

Only did it the two times.  First time was while at idle.  It then responded as previously described.  Shut the bike off.  Plugged the sensor back in to see what restart would be like.  It spun over perhaps one or two more times then had been normal.  But then started and ran normally and was back in closed loop.

After that shut the bike off again.  Unplugged the sensor with ignition switch off.  Bike started normally and ran as previously described.  Shut it off again and the next restart was normal.

Never tried any more than that.  Did reload the map that had been read out of the ECM before I started screwing with it.  But did not experiment more than those two cycles.

[Rhino]

I don't want to play with the bootlegged version, these are discussions trying to make (the current one) break so to speak..  Please wait till the official site versions are out. 

The new software is out, it's fine, but the firmware upgrade is yet to be released. 
Anyway, the software, ...certain enablers of it....will not work until the firmware is released.

The problem with the early release is that it is not a final, and does have some bugs.  I really do not want to have any remnants left in my ecm that cannot be removed, and it may happen if you are using the beta version, because it may not recognize that version when the new one is installed over it.  I think I am trying to explain, but I hope you get the point.  The final version will wipe out complete old version, beta may not have that capability.  I don't think I need that risk, the whole thing is not related to going faster anyway, so hooo cares..

Hope this helps.

Rhino

is this the bootlegged version 45 that is appearing everywhere except the official site?

TN

[TN]

might work with my beta bike.....


thanks

TN

[Rhino]

might work with my beta bike.....
thanks

TN

SPEW!
Rhino

[RDJ ROADKING]

RHINO i have a ? i put my rinehart true duals back on and have rode around 600 miles with the #313 map it will ping bad in the 3 to 4 thousand range even when i let off the gas to shift gears i retarted the timing in the ranges it helped so but not much so i did what u told me to do when i had the dd fatcats on, i clicked the afr over ride and set it at 13.0 and there is no pinging so far how much is the difference between 13.0 and 13.021 to stop the pinging and if i leave it at 13.0 will it auto tune if i was to get some bad gas .......thanks for the help ..........

[just-us-6]

Ok, I think I am going to have to learn more about this thing. The only person who has ever had the disc in a computer is the dealer and Zippers, therefore I have no idea what map is in there?? I also don't know what throttle body I have because when I told Zippers that I had the Muscle 113 with there throttle body they did not know which throttle body it was. Is there a manual that I can read on the thundermax so I have some kind of idea what I am doing before opening the program and where do I get it? I am also getting pinging and am running premium gas, can I add octane booster or will it damage the sensors?  I don't think a trip to Florida for Biketoberfest is in the cards for this year to get it tuned.

[rednectum]

Ok, I think I am going to have to learn more about this thing. The only person who has ever had the disc in a computer is the dealer and Zippers, therefore I have no idea what map is in there?? I also don't know what throttle body I have because when I told Zippers that I had the Muscle 113 with there throttle body they did not know which throttle body it was. Is there a manual that I can read on the thundermax so I have some kind of idea what I am doing before opening the program and where do I get it? I am also getting pinging and am running premium gas, can I add octane booster or will it damage the sensors?  I don't think a trip to Florida for Biketoberfest is in the cards for this year to get it tuned.

www.thunder-max.com for pdf manual

[Rhino]

Yu have a ? is important.   If you know tuning, you can play with the timing, otherwise you can easily exacerbate the problem.  Like R said, read the manual first, makes things very clear. If not, we are here to help as best we can if you follow advice step by step.  So, let me know exactly what bike engine, and acc. are currently running the motor. I can tell you which map, or confirm, then importantly, you will need to clear out all the old offsets, but must be done carefully, according to manual.

Rhino

RHINO i have a ? i put my rinehart true duals back on and have rode around 600 miles with the #313 map it will ping bad in the 3 to 4 thousand range even when i let off the gas to shift gears i retarted the timing in the ranges it helped so but not much so i did what u told me to do when i had the dd fatcats on, i clicked the afr over ride and set it at 13.0 and there is no pinging so far how much is the difference between 13.0 and 13.021 to stop the pinging and if i leave it at 13.0 will it auto tune if i was to get some bad gas .......thanks for the help ..........

[Rhino]

Never use an additive, ever!. It can mess up the sensors, and would give false readings, and then try to correct for those false readings.  Not a good thing. I am surprised that Zippers did not know what TB you had.  So, did your dealer order and install this particular package??  It is important. 

Give me details about your bike, year, model, and as many engine mods you made, including exhaust.  We can go from there. The software needs to be downloaed to your computer. Free.   You should read the manual.  www.thunder-max.com   it is a PDF file, can be viewed easily..
Rhino

Ok, I think I am going to have to learn more about this thing. The only person who has ever had the disc in a computer is the dealer and Zippers, therefore I have no idea what map is in there?? I also don't know what throttle body I have because when I told Zippers that I had the Muscle 113 with there throttle body they did not know which throttle body it was. Is there a manual that I can read on the thundermax so I have some kind of idea what I am doing before opening the program and where do I get it? I am also getting pinging and am running premium gas, can I add octane booster or will it damage the sensors?  I don't think a trip to Florida for Biketoberfest is in the cards for this year to get it tuned.

[RDJ ROADKING]

Yu have a ? is important.   If you know tuning, you can play with the timing, otherwise you can easily exacerbate the problem.  Like R said, read the manual first, makes things very clear. If not, we are here to help as best we can if you follow advice step by step.  So, let me know exactly what bike engine, and acc. are currently running the motor. I can tell you which map, or confirm, then importantly, you will need to clear out all the old offsets, but must be done carefully, according to manual.

Rhino

                                                                                                                                                     ok this is what i have a 2005 roadking with 95", se air filter, stock throttle body, 37 g cams,heads done to a 9-8-1, rinehart true duals, with the preformance baffles, This is what i had before same engine stuff but dd fatcats with standard baffles used map # 275  which is for a 95",rode well over a 1000 miles it never would stop pinging so i put in map #315 and no more pinging and ran great and good gas miliage but i just could'nt get use to the sound of the exhaust. So i had the bungs welded into the rineharts and put in map#395 which is for a 95" was pinging alot so i put in map#313 still pinging even when i let off the gas shifting between gears so i put it to 13.0 on the over ride and it does not ping.............

[rednectum]

                                                                                                                                                     ok this is what i have a 2005 roadking with 95", se air filter, stock throttle body, 37 g cams,heads done to a 9-8-1, rinehart true duals, with the preformance baffles, This is what i had before same engine stuff but dd fatcats with standard baffles used map # 275  which is for a 95",rode well over a 1000 miles it never would stop pinging so i put in map #315 and no more pinging and ran great and good gas miliage but i just could'nt get use to the sound of the exhaust. So i had the bungs welded into the rineharts and put in map#395 which is for a 95" was pinging alot so i put in map#313 still pinging even when i let off the gas shifting between gears so i put it to 13.0 on the over ride and it does not ping.............

if i read that correctly, you had no pinging with fatcat, then installed true duals and cant stop the pinging.
look in your head temp logs and tell us what they say, exhaust pulse may be packing heat into the head??? just a thought, but ran across this before while trying to build a quiet muffler for 2-1. head temps rose, pinging, reinstalled old muffler, pinging stopped, head tmps went down-------its a shot in the dark, but confirmation will help with diagnostics. i usually find you can add more timing, not have to take it away, and by adding more fuel to kill ping---you are also lowering temps??

[Rhino]

Yes, what Red Said.
R

if i read that correctly, you had no pinging with fatcat, then installed true duals and cant stop the pinging.
look in your head temp logs and tell us what they say, exhaust pulse may be packing heat into the head??? just a thought, but ran across this before while trying to build a quiet muffler for 2-1. head temps rose, pinging, reinstalled old muffler, pinging stopped, head tmps went down-------its a shot in the dark, but confirmation will help with diagnostics. i usually find you can add more timing, not have to take it away, and by adding more fuel to kill ping---you are also lowering temps??

[RDJ ROADKING]

Yes, what Red Said.
R

I will check the head temp when i get my bike back have a lifter rattle and getting it adjusted to see if that will help or i'll have to get new one's........ When i emailed zipper's about the pinging they sent me a tech support sheet saying how to reset everything on the sheet it says to have all 4 boxes checked in the closed loop processing. But on the paper that came with it it says to leave the box unchecked that says idle air control override (module) if i am understanding this right u leave the box for air fuel override unchecked also if u want it to tune to the map u load. So what boxes are u guys checking.........thanks i attached the paper they sent me.............

[Rhino]

After reading this post, I am not sure I am the one to help.  If you have a setup matching the TMAX map offereings, fine, but outside that box, you need to be using a shop with a dyno.  I also don't understand how to adjust a lifter. Could you explain? Finally, please read the entire manual, it clearly outlines the setup, and also includes the troubleshooting charts you provided.  The autotune feature needs to be checked closed loop in MAP and when linked, MODULE.  Leave IAC overide unchecked. Leave AFR override unchecked.    This allows the MAP to function as designed.
Rhino

I will check the head temp when i get my bike back have a lifter rattle and getting it adjusted to see if that will help or i'll have to get new one's........ When i emailed zipper's about the pinging they sent me a tech support sheet saying how to reset everything on the sheet it says to have all 4 boxes checked in the closed loop processing. But on the paper that came with it it says to leave the box unchecked that says idle air control override (module) if i am understanding this right u leave the box for air fuel override unchecked also if u want it to tune to the map u load. So what boxes are u guys checking.........thanks i attached the paper they sent me.............

[sadunbar]

After reading this post, I am not sure I am the one to help.  If you have a setup matching the TMAX map offereings, fine, but outside that box, you need to be using a shop with a dyno.  I also don't understand how to adjust a lifter. Could you explain? Finally, please read the entire manual, it clearly outlines the setup, and also includes the troubleshooting charts you provided.  The autotune feature needs to be checked closed loop in MAP and when linked, MODULE.  Leave IAC overide unchecked. Leave AFR override unchecked.    This allows the MAP to function as designed.
Rhino

Rhino,

  Perhaps RDJ Roadking has adjustable length pushrods??? 

Scott