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[JjR]

I read somwhere that the 103 had different shift points because the motor was stroked? As I remember you should not upshift from 4th untill your going 50mph?

I have a 03 SERK and with its power I'm often tempted to shift early but after hearing this now I do not know?

TIA,
John

[Midnight Rider]

I read somwhere that the 103 had different shift points because the motor was stroked? As I remember you should not upshift from 4th untill your going 50mph?

I have a 03 SERK and with its power I'm often tempted to shift early but after hearing this now I do not know?

TIA,
John

IMO, the motor should not be allowed to run below 2K RPM's at any time after 1st gear.  Adjust shift points accordingly.  50mph is as low as mine will go in 5th gear (06 SEUC w/5 speed tranny). 

[grc]

I read somwhere that the 103 had different shift points because the motor was stroked? As I remember you should not upshift from 4th untill your going 50mph?

I have a 03 SERK and with its power I'm often tempted to shift early but after hearing this now I do not know?

TIA,
John

John,

The following is from the owner's manual for a SEEG2, transmission upshift speeds:
1st to 2nd - 15 mph
2nd to 3rd - 25 mph
3rd to 4th - 35 mph
4th to 5th - 45 mph
As you can see, H-D didn't see fit to specify different shift points for the 103.

Lugging is not just about low rpm, but is a combination of load and rpm.  If you want to putt through town at 1600-1800 rpm to keep the noise down, no problem.  Just remember to downshift before accelerating, to reduce the load on the engine.  And don't grab a big handfull of throttle at low rpm, ease into it. 

Jerry

[Hoist!]

No such thing as different shift points. There's different gearing and cam timing, etc. All this determines what the bike's power band will be. Never go below 2000 RPM except first gear!!! Period!!! From there, you can either be in the bike's power band or just ride. Being in the power band is where all the fun is. You can expand or shorten that with cam and/or gearing changes. But there are no defined shift points, except not to lug or over-rev the engine. The rest is up to how you're setup and how you ride! Hoist!

[PHAZE]

I've had a tech at Bumpus tell me that these 110 engines should really be operated above 2500 RPM.  I've done a littlee experiment trying to stay above 2500 and not shifting as much until I'm over 3000 and even up to 3500 RPM.  I've had my fuel mileage go from 32 to 34 MPG up to 42 to 44 MPG. 

I'm running the D&D Fatcats with standard baffle, K&N high flow filter, and SERT.  The bike was dyno tuned producing 100 HP and 119 ft. lbs. of torque.  I assume that your filter/pipes set up might effect when to shift and fuel economy.

[Hoist!]

I've had a tech at Bumpus tell me that these 110 engines should really be operated above 2500 RPM.  I've done a littlee experiment trying to stay above 2500 and not shifting as much until I'm over 3000 and even up to 3500 RPM.  I've had my fuel mileage go from 32 to 34 MPG up to 42 to 44 MPG. 

I'm running the D&D Fatcats with standard baffle, K&N high flow filter, and SERT.  The bike was dyno tuned producing 100 HP and 119 ft. lbs. of torque.  I assume that your filter/pipes set up might effect when to shift and fuel economy.

In the power band and on the cams baby! Run it where it's efficient. You can feel the difference in the way the bike responds. Only way to ride 'em! Hoist!

[JjR]

I've had a tech at Bumpus tell me that these 110 engines should really be operated above 2500 RPM.  I've done a littlee experiment trying to stay above 2500 and not shifting as much until I'm over 3000 and even up to 3500 RPM.  I've had my fuel mileage go from 32 to 34 MPG up to 42 to 44 MPG. 

I'm running the D&D Fatcats with standard baffle, K&N high flow filter, and SERT.  The bike was dyno tuned producing 100 HP and 119 ft. lbs. of torque.  I assume that your filter/pipes set up might effect when to shift and fuel economy.

Dont have a 110 I have a 103

[skreminegul07]

Is this indeed true about running 2500-3500 on the 110 Stroker?  I'm used to the 2000-2500 range and find it annoying that I have to shift a lot more than on my previous 88's.  I thought it was due to the 6 speed and the new ratios.

When I'm close to 3000, the motor sounds like its over revving, but I'm open to learn.  I know there will be more power above 3000 and if there is more mileage then......sweet! 

Now if I could only get the two oil leaks fixed.............................

[Hoist!]

Is this indeed true about running 2500-3500 on the 110 Stroker?  I'm used to the 2000-2500 range and find it annoying that I have to shift a lot more than on my previous 88's.  I thought it was due to the 6 speed and the new ratios.

When I'm close to 3000, the motor sounds like its over revving, but I'm open to learn.  I know there will be more power above 3000 and if there is more mileage then......sweet! 

Now if I could only get the two oil leaks fixed.............................

3000's where you're actually feeling the cams kick in. That's where your motor starts getting happy! Happy between 3000 and 4500. You'll feel it start to stop pulling at about 4500, and don't bother taking it over 5 grand. There, you're better off in the next gear by that point. It's all in the cams. You have a redline of 5800 and a rev limiter. Don't worry about overrevving it. You won't. And don't worry too much about mileage. Just have fun with it. The mileage is what it is, after it's perfectly tuned! Hoist!

[JjR]

3000's where you're actually feeling the cams kick in. That's where your motor starts getting happy! Happy between 3000 and 4500. You'll feel it start to stop pulling at about 4500, and don't bother taking it over 5 grand. There, you're better off in the next gear by that point. It's all in the cams. You have a redline of 5800 and a rev limiter. Don't worry about overrevving it. You won't. And don't worry too much about mileage. Just have fun with it. The mileage is what it is, after it's perfectly tuned! Hoist!

So what about the 103?

[Hoist!]

So what about the 103?

Don't know what cams you're running, but it's the same for every engine. You can feel when cams kick in. Refer to your dyno sheet. Follow your torque curve. You can see where they kick in on the sheet, and where they fall down. That's your power band. Find it and stay in it, and you're bike will seem to ride so much better! Hoist!

[JjR]

Don't know what cams you're running, but it's the same for every engine. You can feel when cams kick in. Refer to your dyno sheet. Follow your torque curve. You can see where they kick in on the sheet, and where they fall down. That's your power band. Find it and stay in it, and you're bike will seem to ride so much better! Hoist!

My 103 has the Reinheart True duals, stage 1 and PCIIIR otherwise stock, my dyno sheet is here:
http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/Northshore_Dyno002.jpg

Any suggestions?

TIA,
John

[Hoist!]

My 103 has the Reinheart True duals, stage 1 and PCIIIR otherwise stock, my dyno sheet is here:
http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/Northshore_Dyno002.jpg

Any suggestions?

TIA,
John

John, you can see that cam kicks in at fairly hi RPM, about 3500. It pulls good to over 5 grand. That's your power band for this engine setup. Changing the cams wiil help expand that to lower RPM's as well, and prduce better overall TQ across the board. Otherwise, you'll find yourself keeping the revs up to stay in it. A cam getting you closer to 100 ft-lbs by 2500-3000 RPM will make your bike feel so much more rideable. Other guys have recommended cams for the 103. Try looking at those posts and decide from there. Hoist!

[Midnight Rider]

My 103 has the Reinheart True duals, stage 1 and PCIIIR otherwise stock, my dyno sheet is here:
http://www.angelfire.com/il3/twins/Northshore_Dyno002.jpg

Any suggestions?

TIA,
John

John...you've got the same setup as mine, with approx the same numbers.  If you're just putting around, as GRC mentions, it's OK to let the motor go below 2K, without a load on it.  I just got back from a trip to WV, VA, NC, TN, running in the mountains almost the entire time.  When I ran the Dragon, two up, the bike never got below 3K, and was in the 3-5K range almost the entire run, but that was a fairly aggressive run, and I wanted to stay in the bike's powerband for both acceleration out of turns, and braking effect going into them.  On the Blue Ridge Parkway, at a more leisurely pace of 45-60mph, I ran the bike in 4th and 5th gear almost all the time...more often in 4th, from 2200-4K rpm.  That was loaded, and two up.  The stock 103 cams like to run best from 3K up, but it's perfectly OK to run them down in the 2K area...just don't expect much if you accelerate from that rpm without downshifting...like grc said, just roll into the throttle gradually so you won't lug the motor.  My shift points are dictated more by rpm than by mph.  Typical shift points for me when I'm just riding around are 3000-3500...my motor seems to be happier doing that.

[Hoist!]

John...you've got the same setup as mine, with approx the same numbers.  If you're just putting around, as GRC mentions, it's OK to let the motor go below 2K, without a load on it.  I just got back from a trip to WV, VA, NC, TN, running in the mountains almost the entire time.  When I ran the Dragon, two up, the bike never got below 3K, and was in the 3-5K range almost the entire run, but that was a fairly aggressive run, and I wanted to stay in the bike's powerband for both acceleration out of turns, and braking effect going into them.  On the Blue Ridge Parkway, at a more leisurely pace of 45-60mph, I ran the bike in 4th and 5th gear almost all the time...more often in 4th, from 2200-4K rpm.  That was loaded, and two up.  The stock 103 cams like to run best from 3K up, but it's perfectly OK to run them down in the 2K area...just don't expect much if you accelerate from that rpm without downshifting...like grc said, just roll into the throttle gradually so you won't lug the motor.  My shift points are dictated more by rpm than by mph.  Typical shift points for me when I'm just riding around are 3000-3500...my motor seems to be happier doing that.

That's the key, and you can feel this! Terry just described above, exactly what you can see on your dyno chart. Hopefully you're getting a feel for what we're talking about now. Hoist!