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[skreminegul07]

Is it the heat is higher with the rear cylinder?  If the cylinders are milled wrong, then why are the fronts not leaking if the part number is exactly the same?
What is the real root cause here?

[Unbalanced]

This is my best guess / reasoning,

The front is getting more air to keep it cool, my guess as I stated in the other post that it is indeed heat / expansion.   I believe it is a combination of the studs, heads, and juggs expanding and then creating play which the new gasket is supposed to absorb.   I think when the play/movement can no longer be absorbed by the gasket the pressure then finds the smallest of openings pushes the oil out through it and we see a head leak or the oil gets pushed into the stud holes and out the bottom.

We didnt see this issue in the 103's which leads me to believe they took more out of the juggs with the 110 for the bore and this isn't helping us cool the juggs.

/wish we had a definitive answer as I am tired of fixing this every 5000 miles.

[skreminegul07]

This is my best guess / reasoning,

The front is getting more air to keep it cool, my guess as I stated in the other post that it is indeed heat / expansion.   I believe it is a combination of the studs, heads, and juggs expanding and then creating play which the new gasket is supposed to absorb.   I think when the play/movement can no longer be absorbed by the gasket the pressure then finds the smallest of openings pushes the oil out through it and we see a head leak or the oil gets pushed into the stud holes and out the bottom.

We didnt see this issue in the 103's which leads me to believe they took more out of the juggs with the 110 for the bore and this isn't helping us cool the juggs.

/wish we had a definitive answer as I am tired of fixing this every 5000 miles.

Time will tell, but I believe you are correct which means there is no hope for the owners of the 110's.  Even a new motor won't fix this issue. 
Maybe (god help me) Howie is right, bite the bullet and rebuild the top end. 
 

[Twolanerider]

Time will tell, but I believe you are correct which means there is no hope for the owners of the 110's.  Even a new motor won't fix this issue. 
Maybe (god help me) Howie is right, bite the bullet and rebuild the top end. 
 

"No" hope might be a bit too pessimistic.  But at least something significantly different/better in gasketing would be required to withstand the environment over the long term.

[FLTRCVO]

Is it the heat is higher with the rear cylinder?  If the cylinders are milled wrong, then why are the fronts not leaking if the part number is exactly the same?
What is the real root cause here?

I had porous jugs and they were replaced. Simply put, a bad batch of jugs were put on some of the 110's. A bad batch can consist of poor formulation, poor casting and non absolute measurements. Therefore, my theory, a pile of unacceptable jugs are out there and a newly designed head gasket will not be able to correct all the jugs within the bad batch. My dealer has been replacing the jugs on every 110" leaking oil from the head gasket and to date none have returned with head gasket leaks the gaskets used on the heads were 16801-07A.

[Unbalanced]

FLHRSE,

I hope this is the fix, they did not do a porosity test on my juggs as tech services just told them to replace the rear since the front hasn't leaked since the gasket was changed.   1st time they repaired it was with the original gasket and the next 2 times they repaired the leak with the new gasket only this time they also replaced the rear jugg as well.   They also put in new rings.

Time / Mileage will tell.

[Rhino]

It does make sense that IF some rear jugs WERE bad, then no gasket is going to fix that.  A few have had their rear jugs replaced and the problem has not returned. So to be safe, me thinks that it is just as easy to replace the jug when apart for the head gasket, (not a big job at that point at all), so, for my leak I will insist that the rear be replaced with new jug and new style gasket.  Best to cover the options while you can, no sense in returning to the dealer for another gasket problem, that's for sure.   

I think Harry was right, but time will tell, it is probably expansion and contraction, porous or whatever, it should not leak no way when installed properly, especially in the first 10K miles.

To address the rear cylinder problem.  The front cylinder gets plenty of air. But the rear, that is a whole nuther story. I discovered, with some help, that a curious thing occurs when running along with the lowers on our bikes. An area of low pressure is created behind the upper part of the lowers, it acts like an airfoil, a wing, sideways. This leads to the air, behind it, to be more or less a vacuum, no air movement.  To make this simple, next time you ride, set cruise contriol, and place hand in vicinity of air cleaner cover. You will find stagnant air exists there, and rearward to the cylinder.  Ambient temps then control the metal temp, not the breeze, or lack of it. Becasue our lowers are cool, we leave them on. But common sense says take them off in hot weather.  But then, if rain comes, you get wet.  So leave em on, and ride in crosswinds.

Rhino(lowersholdmorejunksoileavethemonalways)

[SilverDawg]

Took my lowers off from day one due to the heat we can have here in Texas... I sure hope that helps and I sure hope I have some different jugs as my bike is a post strike bike

[skreminegul07]

I had porous jugs and they were replaced. Simply put, a bad batch of jugs were put on some of the 110's. A bad batch can consist of poor formulation, poor casting and non absolute measurements. Therefore, my theory, a pile of unacceptable jugs are out there and a newly designed head gasket will not be able to correct all the jugs within the bad batch. My dealer has been replacing the jugs on every 110" leaking oil from the head gasket and to date none have returned with head gasket leaks the gaskets used on the heads were 16801-07A.

This hits my title of this thread, the part is the same for front and rear jugs.  Probability would determine that a failure in a front jug is 50% possible, but not one reported.

[skreminegul07]

It does make sense that IF some rear jugs WERE bad, then no gasket is going to fix that.  A few have had their rear jugs replaced and the problem has not returned. So to be safe, me thinks that it is just as easy to replace the jug when apart for the head gasket, (not a big job at that point at all), so, for my leak I will insist that the rear be replaced with new jug and new style gasket.  Best to cover the options while you can, no sense in returning to the dealer for another gasket problem, that's for sure.   

I think Harry was right, but time will tell, it is probably expansion and contraction, porous or whatever, it should not leak no way when installed properly, especially in the first 10K miles.

To address the rear cylinder problem.  The front cylinder gets plenty of air. But the rear, that is a whole nuther story. I discovered, with some help, that a curious thing occurs when running along with the lowers on our bikes. An area of low pressure is created behind the upper part of the lowers, it acts like an airfoil, a wing, sideways. This leads to the air, behind it, to be more or less a vacuum, no air movement.  To make this simple, next time you ride, set cruise contriol, and place hand in vicinity of air cleaner cover. You will find stagnant air exists there, and rearward to the cylinder.  Ambient temps then control the metal temp, not the breeze, or lack of it. Becasue our lowers are cool, we leave them on. But common sense says take them off in hot weather.  But then, if rain comes, you get wet.  So leave em on, and ride in crosswinds.

Rhino(lowersholdmorejunksoileavethemonalways)

Rhino,
I am on my third head gasket and I do not have lowers on my SE Road King.  Dynas and Springers are seein this as well but less which I might take a stab that the SEUC riders might tend to ride more and rack up more miles than any of the other three models.

[Rhino]

Well then I can take it back.  Unless you are also running the stock setup, which runs to hot always. If you had true duals, an RT or similar and an aircleaner, and still had a leak form, then my theory is weaker.  Let me know.

Rhino

[Unbalanced]

Rhino,

New run on signature for you,

Rhino(mytheoryisweaker)   

[hard10]

Rhino,

New run on signature for you,

Rhino(mytheoryisweaker)   

Rhino(mytheoryisweakerbyacoupleofpoints)

[FLTRCVO]

This hits my title of this thread, the part is the same for front and rear jugs.  Probability would determine that a failure in a front jug is 50% possible, but not one reported.

I run my bike in Southern Nevada, thus, I have the heat, I run it in the @ 4000 RPM range on the open road, I have done the hills enroute to Baker during the heat of the day, I always ride 2 up / 430 lbs, I am intentionally beating / testing this motor since the jugs were replaced. Again, my dealer is replacing both jugs when it comes to head gasket leaks and HD is allowing it, someone knows something at HD. This has been my experience

[djkak]

The 110 cylinders have a cross section which is 1/8” less than a TC96 and although I have not seen a 110 apart I believe that it is reasonable to speculate that the approach used to seal the 96 and 103 cylinders cannot be used with the 110’s; there is simply no room. It is my sense that head gasket leakage is a gasket issue which is proprietary to the 110’s.

The “Bigger Bore” 113 cylinders have a much thinner cross section, 0.155” (5/32”) less than the TC96; which does not allow room for a top end o-ring seal in the head gasket. These cylinders run a laminated coated metal gasket (16104-04) which is similar to the 16101-01 SE high compression gaskets. These gaskets are working well in my personal 113 with approximately 16,000 miles on them.

djkak