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[SilverDawg]

Ok, I know Hoist is in the middle (or end) of rebuilding his 110.  My thread topic is what components would you use if you were to "give up" on the stock set up for the 110 engine, and go for new heads, pistons, cams, etc.

Please list what size and type of components you would use for each of these areas, as well as any other mods required to handle the new beast.  I guess I'm saying what would you use to make your 110 a 113!!

Please list some rationale and links if appropriate. 

There may be a few of us who will want to do this if we cannot get a high level of confidence that the MoCo will get the 110's right.  This thread could be a great reference for us who will go down this road in the future.

John

[Hoist!]

Ok, I know Hoist is in the middle (or end) of rebuilding his 110.  My thread topic is what components would you use if you were to "give up" on the stock set up for the 110 engine, and go for new heads, pistons, cams, etc.

Please list what size and type of components you would use for each of these areas, as well as any other mods required to handle the new beast.  I guess I'm saying what would you use to make your 110 a 113!!

Please list some rationale and links if appropriate. 

There may be a few of us who will want to do this if we cannot get a high level of confidence that the MoCo will get the 110's right.  This thread could be a great reference for us who will go down this road in the future.

John

You can buy a Jim's 120 and have that built properly before you install it. Or you can do many things to this engine if you're gonna split the cases. First step is to make a more reliable bottom end by doing a Timkin bearing conversion, and welding the flywheels so they can't shift at all, and have the assembly balanced. You can bore to different piston diameters and/or change flywheels as well. I personally wouldn't go thru the trouble of boring the cases for only 3 cu in's. I'd probably go to 124 at that point. I don't think I'd stroke it further. But you can rebuild it as a 110 too, do the bottom end right, use stock barrels, forged pistons, get new or rebuild your heads, cams, camplates, oil pump, blah, blah, blah and get a bulletproof 110 that puts out 140 ft-lbs of Tq and is extremely reliable and rideable. Most of you are on Touring Bikes and just want a strong reliable motorcycles. This can easily be done to your existing motor for about $7500 out of your pockets. But your engine would put a stock HD to shame! That's my take on it, for what it's worth!

Hoist!

[SilverDawg]

Thanks Howie,

I hope to get some more posts like yours on this with some other ways to improve "the grenade".

My bike is a 3/07 mfg. date.  I wonder if they actually took the time to address all of the inprocess bikes while the strike was going on....No Way....

[Rhino]

Hi Cobalt,

How far do you want to go? I am at 118/105 with a bolt in cam, soon to be at 135/160 with nitrous.  Simple, clean and relatively cheap.  Front wheel up in 1 -2 -3. Nitrous will be 1-2-3-4-5-6 I think I will definately scare myself.  But I was quite thrilled with just the Redshift 575 however.

Rhino



Ok, I know Hoist is in the middle (or end) of rebuilding his 110.  My thread topic is what components would you use if you were to "give up" on the stock set up for the 110 engine, and go for new heads, pistons, cams, etc.

Please list what size and type of components you would use for each of these areas, as well as any other mods required to handle the new beast.  I guess I'm saying what would you use to make your 110 a 113!!

Please list some rationale and links if appropriate.  

[Unbalanced]

Cobalt,

Are you considering going to the 113 to get reliability or are you going there to get all out performance or some mix of them.
Are you willing to stay all harley or are you just looking for a good combination.

Let's say you want to replace your's with a stock 113.

Then you have the cases bored, 113 juggs, 103+ heads, 113 pistons/rings, Gaskets, 260 cam.

Now supporting cast.
1.  Timken Bearing (cases are coming apart to do your boring might as well do the timken at that point.)
2.  High Flow Oil Pump
3.  SE / Fueling / S&S / Jims Lifters
4.  Roller Rockers  ~ Usually want to do this when your going over 600 lift.  Add a little noise in top end.
5.   upgrade of the clutch (Rivera Pro Clutch) or at least a VPC to start.
6.  Larger Throttle body 53 - 55 mm
7.  Stepped pipes to allow the motor to breath.
8.  Cometic Head Gaskets.
9  adjustable push rods and tubes
10 bearings

Scenario 2
Pistons
Have the heads worked on
53 - 58 mm throttle body
2 into 1 pipe  D&D or Road Rage
Cam of the Head Builder or their choice to match their headwork. 
Gear Drive / bearings
Some other choices on Cams are Mackie 630, S&S 625, S&S 640, T-Man 650, Woods w9f or w9b.

[SilverDawg]

Cobalt,

Are you considering going to the 113 to get reliability or are you going there to get all out performance or some mix of them.
Are you willing to stay all harley or are you just looking for a good combination.

Let's say you want to replace your's with a stock 113.

Then you have the cases bored, 113 juggs, 103+ heads, 113 pistons/rings, Gaskets, 260 cam.

Now supporting cast.
1.  Timken Bearing (cases are coming apart to do your boring might as well do the timken at that point.)
2.  High Flow Oil Pump
3.  SE / Fueling / S&S / Jims Lifters
4.  Roller Rockers  ~ Usually want to do this when your going over 600 lift.  Add a little noise in top end.
5.   upgrade of the clutch (Rivera Pro Clutch) or at least a VPC to start.
6.  Larger Throttle body 53 - 55 mm
7.  Stepped pipes to allow the motor to breath.
8.  Cometic Head Gaskets.
9  adjustable push rods and tubes
10 bearings

Scenario 2
Pistons
Have the heads worked on
53 - 58 mm throttle body
2 into 1 pipe  D&D or Road Rage
Cam of the Head Builder or their choice to match their headwork. 
Gear Drive / bearings
Some other choices on Cams are Mackie 630, S&S 625, S&S 640, T-Man 650, Woods w9f or w9b.

Unbalanced,

Thanks for the reply. I guess I should clarify to your point.  I am looking for solid RELIABILTY..vs super top end performance.  Still want it to move, but I am really into great torque.  However, I really want to be able to count on this bike on long trips, so RELIABILITy with performance is the key.  I;m not opposed to going aftermarket vs. Harley.  Just want the stuff to be dependable.

Thanks again and feel free to provide more input if this changes things.

[Hoist!]

Unbalanced,

Thanks for the reply. I guess I should clarify to your point.  I am looking for solid RELIABILTY..vs super top end performance.  Still want it to move, but I am really into great torque.  However, I really want to be able to count on this bike on long trips, so RELIABILITy with performance is the key.  I;m not opposed to going aftermarket vs. Harley.  Just want the stuff to be dependable.

Thanks again and feel free to provide more input if this changes things.

That's why you use proven bulletproof race chit! That way you get both performance and reliability. The combination of components you select will determine ridability. You don't have to go radical to use quality racing chit! Hoist!

[Unbalanced]

Cobalt,

Going middle of the road is probably the best answer for performance and reliability.   You should consider talking to a named builder with the information I posted above and have them make suggestions of what cam / headwork you should consider.   

The other point let us say you decide to go with the 120" engine you would still want to ensure that the supporting hardware was also in place for the build.   for example upgraded clutch, high flow oil pump, lifters throttle body.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Money was not really asked about but that is where you have to start really.

 But you can build a 124 for the cost of a jims 120 that will out perform most out there not not break the bank

One set of ductile iron cylinders
JE pistons
One set R&R cast heads
roller rockers
push rods
True and balance you stock crank add pro plug
55-60 mm t/b
custom ground 62 cam
timken upgrade
bore cases

Power wise on pump fuel you would be in the 150 area. Cost wise on less than a Jims engine.

Now do not forget with all the extra power the drive line needs to be looked at as well.

My list is one that is made up of nothing but top end parts that will run for a exteme amount of miles. The cylinders alone are buller proof, they are round and we also cut the heads to match them in a round set up. The overall look is killer once done. It does not look stock but the final product is killer.


Add ons like NOS are nice but the down side is amount of power until bottle is empty, ensure a spot on tune, NOS has no issue with buring holes in pistons if you go lean. As well I do not think that it is a good idea to be used on a regular basis with out first doing some upgrades to the bottom end to be able to handle the increase in stress on the rods, crank, bearings, and pistons.  This is not a put down to the bottle as i have a set up on my street rod and if used correctl and the engine is built to handle it then great. I hit my little stroker motor that makes 528 to the rear tires on pump fuel for another 225 worth of spray. I run twin bottles to keep psi up as you will get more runs on twin bottles tied together.  Vs amount of runs per bottle. The bottle temp is the biggest issue and the smaller the bottle the more it effects you psi under a run.


 Turbos are gaining popularity cost wise they seem to be in the 5000 range the increase on stock engines is very good, down side is look and the bulky look.

Super chargers are nice but again size wise they are huge and you need to use one that is in the left side of the engine not right the pinion shaft is not capable of properly supporting the stress of a blower on the right side. This is something that we have learned the hard way. I knwo they sell them but the destruction they can do to the crank is almost always a total loss on the engine as it takes out the case's in the process.

Or maybe leave it stock and save the money for a vacation some where??  HA HA   I feel like I need a week or two off to blow off some steam.  In at 5 am out at 5 pm 6 days a weeks is burning me out that is for sure.