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[LabRat]

OK, did a search and found a smattering of stuff scattered about. I've got an '08 CUSE coming next Friday and looking for advice on breaking it it. I know it's mostly personal choice, but what works with these motors and what doesn't.

I've read all the issues about heat, crank run-out, porous cylinders, etc. I'm really looking for break-in suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

[9 1/2 Beers]

RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT !!!!!!

[RedDevil]

OK, did a search and found a smattering of stuff scattered about. I've got an '08 CUSE coming next Friday and looking for advice on breaking it it. I know it's mostly personal choice, but what works with these motors and what doesn't.

I've read all the issues about heat, crank run-out, porous cylinders, etc. I'm really looking for break-in suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

I followed the instructions in the owner's manual and broke it in the way they recommended.  My engine has performed just fine.  The only thing I did was have the headers, mufflers, AC, and ECM changed before I took the bike from the dealership the first time.  
Cheers ,
  

[Fired00d]

I followed the instructions in the owner's manual and broke it in the way they recommended.  My engine has performed just fine.  The only thing I did was have the headers, mufflers, AC, and ECM changed before I took the bike from the dealership the first time.  
Cheers ,
  

I'll second that... Follow the instructions in the owners manual. I rode mine several thousand miles (1k break-in, and trip to Sturgis and back) in stock configuration before adding pipes, SERT, and SE Breather.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[RedDevil]

I'll second that... Follow the instructions in the owners manual. I rode mine several thousand miles (1k break-in, and trip to Sturgis and back) in stock configuration before adding pipes, SERT, and SE Breather.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

And you can take what d00d says to the bank.  That man has one righteous ride. 
Cheers ,
 

[HUBBARD]

I disagree with the Factory Break-in Procedure.  Ride it from day one according to your particular riding habits.  Anything less tends to make a V-Twin lazy on down the road.  Later--HUBBARD

[RedDevil]

I disagree with the Factory Break-in Procedure.  Ride it from day one according to your particular riding habits.  Anything less tends to make a V-Twin lazy on down the road.  Later--HUBBARD

Hub, You old dog!!!  Welcome back.  How's it doing with the new dealership and the racing.  Good to see you again.
Cheers ,
 

[SilverDawg]

I followed the instructions in the owner's manual and broke it in the way they recommended.  My engine has performed just fine.  The only thing I did was have the headers, mufflers, AC, and ECM changed before I took the bike from the dealership the first time.  
Cheers ,
  

Same here....

[Midnight Rider]

If I was getting a new 110, I would definitely have the exhaust/intake and a break-in MAP added by either a SERT or PCIIIUSB...HD dealer would be more likely to do the SERT.  But, they are not available yet.

First 50 miles, not over 3K, and never a constant RPM.  Allow the motor to decelerate without pulling the clutch in, in the proper gear, of course.  This is known as "fluttering" the rings and will help them seat/seal better because of the greater pressure generated.  First 50 are the most critical, IMO.  After that, just vary RPM all the time, to 500 miles.  The ride it like you want to, although I varied the RPM a bit all the way up to 1K.

If you do your own service, or can get your dealer to use your fluids, dump the Syn3 and go with Mobil 1 VTwin or Amsoil from the get go.  I dumped the Syn3 at 500 miles...used it for "break-in" oil.  Mobil 1 ever since.

[Hoist!]

I disagree with the Factory Break-in Procedure.  Ride it from day one according to your particular riding habits.  Anything less tends to make a V-Twin lazy on down the road.  Later--HUBBARD

Gotta agree! Heat cycle it and seat the rings. Then ride it like you're gonna ride it! Tried it their way the first time on this motor, and it still broke, even w/the mods done right away. These 110's are good motors. They just need a little help. As long as your runout holds up, that is! Hoist!

[mr_magoo]

I just broke mine in like all my bikes.  The first 30-40miles I run the bike thru the gear with hard acceleration then hard deceleration not using the brakes.  What you are trying to do is get the rings to seat. Also drop the syn3 and use reg 20w50 oil in the motor.  I put 50-75miles on the oil and change it and the filter, and again at 500mile.  And us regular oil till I get 5000miles on the motor then switch to synthetic.  Just one mans idea and the world is full of them, hope it helps.

[bpalmersheim]

I have learned over the years that following the manufacturer's instructions on anything mechnical, except critical break-in's have gone to crap within the first year.

Be gentle for the first 50 miles, then ride it like you would everyday.  That's what I have done with my SERK...

Congrats on the purchase.

[LRebel]

If I was getting a new 110, I would definitely have the exhaust/intake and a break-in MAP added by either a SERT or PCIIIUSB...HD dealer would be more likely to do the SERT.  But, they are not available yet.

First 50 miles, not over 3K, and never a constant RPM.  Allow the motor to decelerate without pulling the clutch in, in the proper gear, of course.  This is known as "fluttering" the rings and will help them seat/seal better because of the greater pressure generated.  First 50 are the most critical, IMO.  After that, just vary RPM all the time, to 500 miles.  The ride it like you want to, although I varied the RPM a bit all the way up to 1K.

If you do your own service, or can get your dealer to use your fluids, dump the Syn3 and go with Mobil 1 VTwin or Amsoil from the get go.  I dumped the Syn3 at 500 miles...used it for "break-in" oil.  Mobil 1 ever since.

The info above is great advice.  Since I don't keep anything for an extended period, I have broke in several motors (motorcycles, vehicles, boats, tractors,...).  The advice above is right on the money.  I don't recommend using your cruise control, because when you set the cruise your motor is going to run and the same rpm for an extended period - Not Good.

Ride it gently for the first 50 or so miles (no more than 3000 rpm & up and down through the gears).  Then try to get out and take nice short trip (maybe 100 miles or so (still keeping the rpm's down to no more than 3000 rpm's or so).  The purpose here is to get the motor up to operating temp. and maintaining it for a while and remember to vary the rpm's.  On short rides you may not get the motor up to operating temp and if so it will not be maintained long enough - you need to get out and take a longer ride.

Take it easy and vary the rpm's up to 1000 miles and then drain fluids and change the oil filter.  Then you should be ready to go.

[LabRat]

Thanks for all the great advice. I wasn't getting notified of the responses, so now need to collate them all. I guess the downside of the '08s is there are no tuners out yet because of the changes made with the cruise control and 'fly-by-wire' throttle. Because of that, I'll have to wait before putting on new pipes and an AC.

Definitely agree with the Mobil 1. I've been running their synthetic in my air cooled boxer engines and a new water cooled one. HD's not the only ones with hot engines and the occasional oil leaks. And for those asking for a water cooled HD....P-cars lost their soul when they put in the radiators. Yeah, the cars might perform better, but there was nothing like the sounds and smells of the older Porsches

[mr_magoo]

I talked to Brad at Freedom cycle yesterday and he said in about a week or 2 they would have something for the 08's.  Probably a SERT not a power commander.