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[tmitchellofpg]

I haven't noticed any posts concerning what is required to maintain the hydraulic clutch. Does anyone have input on it.
Tom

[VAZHOG]

I haven't noticed any posts concerning what is required to maintain the hydraulic clutch. Does anyone have input on it.
Tom

Same as the DOT 4 Brake Maintance (Uses the same stuff Change) (Every 24 Months)

[grc]

I haven't noticed any posts concerning what is required to maintain the hydraulic clutch. Does anyone have input on it.
Tom

Tom,

The only "official" maintenance is to change the DOT4 fluid every two years, same as called for with the brakes, and a visual inspection for leaks every 5k miles.  My personal addition is to remove the hand lever once per year to clean out any and all gunk and then lightly lube the pivot.  If you decide to do this, use a dry film lubricant so you don't wind up attracting dust and dirt.

Jerry

[tmitchellofpg]

Thanks for the information.
Tom

[EZRIDN]

Tom,

The only "official" maintenance is to change the DOT4 fluid every two years, same as called for with the brakes, and a visual inspection for leaks every 5k miles.  My personal addition is to remove the hand lever once per year to clean out any and all gunk and then lightly lube the pivot.  If you decide to do this, use a dry film lubricant so you don't wind up attracting dust and dirt.

Jerry

Jerry,

Why would the "official" maintenance schedule be set for every two years to change brake/clutch fluids?  Is this just another way of HD drumming up business?  I don't know of anyone ever doing this to their automobiles on a regular basis...what would make a bike command such a schedule like that? Am I missing something here?  My pickup has a hydraulic clutch set up and the thought never occurred to me to ever change fluids in the 90k miles that I have driven it.  (insert head scratching noises here)

ez

[hd-dude]

This 2 year change is related to the use of the DOT4 fluid. HD changed to DOT 4 fluid from the previously used DOT 5 fluid because of the air bubbles that DOT 5 fluid gets. DOT 5 fluid is also not compatible with DOT 4 fluid as it is silicone based. Any brake fluid over time accumualtes moisture. Moisture in the fluid lowers the boiling point in the fluid. When it boils it thins and become ineffective, Thus the 2 year change interval.

[Fired00d]

This 2 year change is related to the use of the DOT4 fluid. In previous years the DOT5 was used and it did not have that requirement.

Jim,
Save me from investigating further which fluid will be in my '04 SEEG? This question/concern had me checking to see when I should have mine replaced but I couldn't find anything in service or owners manual. TIA.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[hd-dude]

Jim,
Save me from investigating further which fluid will be in my '04 SEEG? This question/concern had me checking to see when I should have mine replaced but I couldn't find anything in service or owners manual. TIA.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

You have DOT 5 in yours, I would still change it every cople of years due to moisture.

[Fired00d]

You have DOT 5 in yours, I would still change it every cople of years due to moisture.

Thanks.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[grc]

Jerry,

Why would the "official" maintenance schedule be set for every two years to change brake/clutch fluids?  Is this just another way of HD drumming up business?  I don't know of anyone ever doing this to their automobiles on a regular basis...what would make a bike command such a schedule like that? Am I missing something here?  My pickup has a hydraulic clutch set up and the thought never occurred to me to ever change fluids in the 90k miles that I have driven it.  (insert head scratching noises here)

ez

ez,

Basically, if the system remains totally leak free and isn't opened (check fluid levels with the sight glass only), a two year interval is overly anal.  However, since the non-ABS bikes have very simple hydraulic systems and use just a small volume of fluid, it's no big deal to flush and replace the fluid.  People or shops with pressure bleeders can basically just pump new fluid in one end and collect the old fluid at the other end at the same time.  If done right, you won't even introduce any air into the system.

The reason for the overly cautious schedule has to do with the fact that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid attracts and holds moisture, and the manufacturer wants to CYA in case of any liability claims.  Any time the fluid is exposed to the atmosphere, it will "suck" moisture right out of the air.  That moisture causes two major problems, the first being to lower the boiling point of the brake fluid.  If the brake fluid boils, you don't get full pressure applied to the brake pads and your stopping distances get much longer.  The second problem is that the moisture in the fluid tends to cause corrosion in the components of the system (ever had a brake caliper where the piston became stuck?).  So even though most folks don't flush and refill the brake systems of their vehicles, it is a good idea to do so.  And if you do a lot of mountain driving or towing it is even more critical.  As for the hydraulic clutch, obviously you don't have the safety issue like with the brakes, but you still have the corrosion potential.  

Those with DOT5 (silicone) fluids also need to look at flushing and refilling occasionally.  While DOT5 doesn't attract moisture like DOT3/4, if any moisture does get into the system if will separate out at certain points in the calipers, cylinders, and lines and cause corrosion issues.

Jerry
  

[Midnight Rider]

ez,

Basically, if the system remains totally leak free and isn't opened (check fluid levels with the sight glass only), a two year interval is overly anal.  However, since the non-ABS bikes have very simple hydraulic systems and use just a small volume of fluid, it's no big deal to flush and replace the fluid.  People or shops with pressure bleeders can basically just pump new fluid in one end and collect the old fluid at the other end at the same time.  If done right, you won't even introduce any air into the system.

The reason for the overly cautious schedule has to do with the fact that DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid attracts and holds moisture, and the manufacturer wants to CYA in case of any liability claims.  Any time the fluid is exposed to the atmosphere, it will "suck" moisture right out of the air.  That moisture causes two major problems, the first being to lower the boiling point of the brake fluid.  If the brake fluid boils, you don't get full pressure applied to the brake pads and your stopping distances get much longer.  The second problem is that the moisture in the fluid tends to cause corrosion in the components of the system (ever had a brake caliper where the piston became stuck?).  So even though most folks don't flush and refill the brake systems of their vehicles, it is a good idea to do so.  And if you do a lot of mountain driving or towing it is even more critical.  As for the hydraulic clutch, obviously you don't have the safety issue like with the brakes, but you still have the corrosion potential.  

Those with DOT5 (silicone) fluids also need to look at flushing and refilling occasionally.  While DOT5 doesn't attract moisture like DOT3/4, if any moisture does get into the system if will separate out at certain points in the calipers, cylinders, and lines and cause corrosion issues.

Jerry
  

Jerry or Jim...when I changed out my calipers, I could not find any fresh DOT 4 fluid (had some used cans,but they were old so was afraid to use them), so found Valvoline "racing" fluid, which I believe is synthetic, but it says on the can that is is completely compatible with all DOT 3 and 4 fluids.  Do you know anything about this product?  Mine are basically completely flushed and replaced with this material, as all lines/calipers have been replaced at one point or another in the past year...when I did my bars earlier, then front calipers, then stainless braided and new calipers on the rear.  It's supposed to be equivalent to DOT 4.   It's working just fine, so I guess I don't need to worry about it.  Here's a link to the product

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=51


Here's another quick comparison of various fluids I found    http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake%20Fluid%20Comparison.htm

[hd-dude]

I have no personal experience with this but as long as its compatible you should be fine, especially since you have flushed the system and replaced lines and brakes.

[Midnight Rider]

I have no personal experience with this but as long as its compatible you should be fine, especially since you have flushed the system and replaced lines and brakes.

Thanks, Jim...I figured as much.  I also figured that since it's synthetic, it might not harm the paint if one got clumsy.