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[bpalmersheim]

Tonight, while installing the chrome EFI manifold cover and re-installing the chrome backplate, I followed the directions to a "T".  The instruction sheet (for both the backplate and the manifold cover) states to tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 foot pounds.

I was alternatively tightening the breather bolts and got to about 60 pounds on the rear breather bolt and BAM it stripped the threading in the head. 

I fired up the bike and let it run for a little while just idling and noticed a little oil seepage past the new orings...

Dummy me, I just opened the Service Manual (page 4-22) and it states to tighten to 22-24 ft pounds!!!!

What do I do now?  There is no way that you can get 120-144 ft pounds of torque in these things.

[Midnight Rider]

Tonight, while installing the chrome EFI manifold cover and re-installing the chrome backplate, I followed the directions to a "T".  The instruction sheet (for both the backplate and the manifold cover) states to tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 foot pounds.

I was alternatively tightening the breather bolts and got to about 60 pounds on the rear breather bolt and BAM it stripped the threading in the head. 

I fired up the bike and let it run for a little while just idling and noticed a little oil seepage past the new orings...

Dummy me, I just opened the Service Manual (page 4-22) and it states to tighten to 22-24 ft pounds!!!!

What do I do now?  There is no way that you can get 120-144 ft pounds of torque in these things.

Are you sure those numbers are not INCH pounds?  Even the rear axle nut does not take that many foot pounds of torque.  Either the instructions are wrong, or there was a mis read along the line somewhere.

[Twolanerider]

Tonight, while installing the chrome EFI manifold cover and re-installing the chrome backplate, I followed the directions to a "T".  The instruction sheet (for both the backplate and the manifold cover) states to tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 foot pounds.

I was alternatively tightening the breather bolts and got to about 60 pounds on the rear breather bolt and BAM it stripped the threading in the head. 

I fired up the bike and let it run for a little while just idling and noticed a little oil seepage past the new orings...

Dummy me, I just opened the Service Manual (page 4-22) and it states to tighten to 22-24 ft pounds!!!!

What do I do now?  There is no way that you can get 120-144 ft pounds of torque in these things.

120 ft pounds is a lot of torque.  That's a spec for a good sized bolt.  It's either a severe misprint or it's an inch pound spec rather than a foot pound spec.  For comparison's sake 20 ft pounds will be 240 inch pounds.

Did the threads pull out or did a flange break?  If threads pulled out you have a potential option short of buying more parts.  Insert a heli-coil insert.  They're easy to install, relatively inexpensive to buy (in a kit of everything needed to do the job) and the repair is strong.  You'll want to work with a vacuum to catch shavings and other debris.  But the insert is likely your only option.

[bpalmersheim]

From the instructions sheets:

EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD COVER
(REV. 2006-04-05)

Step #8:  

Install the breather bolts through the air cleaner backplate.  Re-install O-ring seals onto each breather bolt.  Install a washer (3) from the kit on each breather bolt.  Align holes in the backplate with the holes in the cylinder heads and install the breather bolts..  Use a 7/16 inch deepwell socket and alternately tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 ft-lbs (13.6-16.3Nm).


SCREAMIN' EAGLE TWIN CAM AIR CLEANER BACKPLATE
(REV. 2005-12-20)

Step #8:

Alternately tighten the two breather bolts to 120-144 ft-lbs (13.6-16.3Nm).

I can't believe they have two instruction sheets wrong...  The service manual states 22-24 ft-lbs.  I should have looked there first.

Is there anyway to fix the threads, other than drilling and re-tapping that I can do on my own without costing a ton of money?  The breather bolts only come in one size!!!  

[Twolanerider]

From the instructions sheets:

Use a 7/16 inch deepwell socket and alternately tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 ft-lbs (13.6-16.3Nm).


I can't believe they have two instruction sheets wrong...  The service manual states 22-24 ft-lbs.  I should have looked there first.

Is there anyway to fix the threads, other than drilling and re-tapping that I can do on my own without costing a ton of money?  The breather bolts only come in one size!!!  

That's a major FUBAR misprint.  13 Newton Meters is about 115 inch pounds (math in my head, sorry not precise).  120 to 144 inch pounds would be 10 to 12 foot pounds.

A 7/16" socket is most commonly going to be used on a 1/4" bolt.  Granted, being unfamiliar with pulling torque you'd simply not know that a little quarter inch bolt would never stand up to 120 foot pounds of torque.  That is an obscenely mistaken torque spec though.

Regarding a fix, however, if the threads are gone you've really only got two options.  Drilling a bit more and using a tap to cut threads for the next larger sized bolt is one option.  The better option, however, is drilling, tapping and installing the helicoil insert.  I know some people don't like to use steel coil inserts in aluminum.  But it's no different in effect then using a steel bolt in aluminum.  So don't worry about it. 

Helicoil lets you use the original sized bolt.  So anything else the bolt holds doesn't have to be reamed out either.  Any parts store will have a helicoil kit.  The kit will include the threaded inserts, a tap and the packet will tell you exactly what size to drill out the hole to use the supplied tap.

[Chief]

I wonder if there is recourse to get HD to take care of it, either pay the dealer to put in the insert, or have HD replace the head?

If the instructions are clearly written, and clearly wrong, you may have a valid point for having them assume the responsibility.

A call to customer service would at least alert them to the problem in the instructions and might get them to take care of it. I think it would be worth a try.

Good luck,

[grc]

The 120-144 should be inch-pounds, which is equivalent to 10-12 foot-pounds or 13.6-16.3 newton-meters (1 newton-meter = 0.737562147 foot-pound). 

As 2lane said, the best way to repair this is with heli-coil (or other brands) thread repair inserts.  It's actually a very easy process, just make sure you maintain straight alignment when drilling and tapping (go slow), and vacuum out all metal chips.  It's been my experience that a good heli-coil repair is stronger than the original thread.

Jerry

[harleyteam]

show those instructions to your dealer,,,,, if he's worth his salt, and honest.  he will get things fixed for you under warantee.  DO NOT  part with those instructions.  keep control of them. let him photo copy them,,, but don't give up the originals(HEY, you never know when you might have to sue)

[Fired00d]

show those instructions to your dealer,,,,, if he's worth his salt, and honest.  he will get things fixed for you under warantee.  DO NOT  part with those instructions.  keep control of them. let him photo copy them,,, but don't give up the originals(HEY, you never know when you might have to sue)

Good point. You may want to mention that you've spoken to a lawyer and he's on standby if you can't get this resolved. This is there (MoCo's) mistake and they "should" make it right for you.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Coolbreeze]

Also, since if your stealership is like My stealership, they will just tell you to pack sand...  trailering the scoot down to the local hot rod or machine shop will probably get it heli-coiled for a $20 and a six-pack of beer....   and they will prolly do a better job than the dealership...  (it's a really simple operation if you have the, uh, background.....)

[rednectum]

remember too that the factory loc-tite can alter threads, 120 inch pounds may be too much in that case. today while removing some bolts from a 103 rocker support, i was cussing the moco thread loc. knowing i will need to tap the holes and inspect threads. factory torque specs go out the window after a snafu like that.

[REGGAB]

remember too that the factory loc-tite can alter threads, 120 inch pounds may be too much in that case. today while removing some bolts from a 103 rocker support, i was cussing the moco thread loc. knowing i will need to tap the holes and inspect threads. factory torque specs go out the window after a snafu like that.

Hey Red, are those my rocker supports?

Henry

[rednectum]

Hey Red, are those my rocker supports?

Henry

nope, another customer. he also had used s100 and not rinsed well, corroded bolts everywhere. was installing some roller rockers, took twice as long as normal. loc tite was white and the full length of the bolts. add that to the normal corrosion you get when parading up and down the beach front and you get a good idea of my language used doing that job. lol

[Coolbreeze]

nope, another customer. he also had used s100 and not rinsed well, corroded bolts everywhere. was installing some roller rockers, took twice as long as normal. loc tite was white and the full length of the bolts. add that to the normal corrosion you get when parading up and down the beach front and you get a good idea of my language used doing that job. lol

You guys are missing the important money saving part of the job here...

You do the deed, and THEN you wash the customers bike, (makes 'em feel special, dontcha know), and then (here's where you ya really save the money guys), you DON'T rinse off the S100, thereby making it okay that you didn't use any loc-tite, because the fasteners won't come off anyway!

uugghhh!    (did I mention that my lovely bride is a lousy rinser?)               (pet peeve alert!) 

[rednectum]

cool breeze, how is it you know about the corrosive properties of S100???