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[Steve_G]

Is there any reason not to upgrade your cams without going to gear drive?  It seems to me the new system in these engines is quite reliable.  I realize that you may have some minute percentage of "slop" in any chain driven system, but you also don't pick up the whine.  Any opinions? 

[Hoist!]

Is there any reason not to upgrade your cams without going to gear drive?  It seems to me the new system in these engines is quite reliable.  I realize that you may have some minute percentage of "slop" in any chain driven system, but you also don't pick up the whine.  Any opinions? 

With the crank runout we've been seeing on the 110's and use of the hydraulic tensioners now, I think you'd be nuts to go gear drive on these things!

JMHO, you guys do what you want!

Hoist!

[Rhino]

Is there any reason not to upgrade your cams without going to gear drive?  It seems to me the new system in these engines is quite reliable.  I realize that you may have some minute percentage of "slop" in any chain driven system, but you also don't pick up the whine.  Any opinions? 

Agreed, chain drives are the way to go with these 110's, unless you actually balance and tru the cranks, then gear drive it. Its a massive effort vs a simple bolt in type chain drive cam.

Rhino(soontobesoakininhsprings)

[rednectum]

yep, lots of runout on the new chinese cranks. cam drive isnt the only concern, whipping out the oil pump is another. be sure to check runout when you open the chest.

[Talon]

With the crank runout we've been seeing on the 110's and use of the hydraulic tensioners now, I think you'd be nuts to go gear drive on these things!

JMHO, you guys do what you want!

Hoist!

If you stay with chain drive I do like Howie, get the new hydraulic tensioners, less drag and shoe ware. I wouldn't call the old style exactly reliable, some people get 15-25k on the original tensioners, but some need to be replaced after only few thousand mikes. A local shop has an old style chain setup on a display stand with a hand crank on it, you can't believe how hard that setup is to rotate by hand! Of course no oil on it, but it's a lot of drag!

As for me if my crank runout is within limits, I'm going gears, if not, new hydraulics!

[Chief]

If you stay with chain drive I do like Howie, get the new hydraulic tensioners, less drag and shoe ware. I wouldn't call the old style exactly reliable, some people get 15-25k on the original tensioners, but some need to be replaced after only few thousand mikes. A local shop has an old style chain setup on a display stand with a hand crank on it, you can't believe how hard that setup is to rotate by hand! Of course no oil on it, but it's a lot of drag!

As for me if my crank runout is within limits, I'm going gears, if not, new hydraulics!

Some get more too. I got 53,500 out of the inner one and replaced it just as a selling point for the old bike. I've still got the original tensioner on the shelf. It would easily go another 20k or 30k. The wear just wasn't that bad on it. I replaced the outer one at 30k because I screwed up and broke it. It didn't need replacing. At 23,000 on the new one, just a smidge was worn. Maybe I was just lucky, but I attributed a lot of it to the Mobil 1 I ran.

You need to check them, but some last really long miles while others don't last worth crap. 

[Steve_G]

If you stay with chain drive I do like Howie, get the new hydraulic tensioners, less drag and shoe ware. I wouldn't call the old style exactly reliable, some people get 15-25k on the original tensioners, but some need to be replaced after only few thousand mikes. A local shop has an old style chain setup on a display stand with a hand crank on it, you can't believe how hard that setup is to rotate by hand! Of course no oil on it, but it's a lot of drag!

As for me if my crank runout is within limits, I'm going gears, if not, new hydraulics!

I'm waiting on an '08 USE, is there a new hydraulic system out since the '08's?
I guess what may be giving people the impression I have the old system is because of the picture of the melon '06 bike here.  -My dealer sold this bike during the Sturgis Rally, and my new one was supposed to be in that same week.  Right after the rally I was informed that I would be SOL  (does that stand for "short" on luck?)  -Anyway the new one is "supposed" to have a 9/14 production date.  I should see it about a week before the snow falls here.  -Retail& Steve

[Talon]

No, didn't know you had a new bike, it already has the new style tensioners.

[Talon]

Some get more too. I got 53,500 out of the inner one and replaced it just as a selling point for the old bike. I've still got the original tensioner on the shelf. It would easily go another 20k or 30k. The wear just wasn't that bad on it. I replaced the outer one at 30k because I screwed up and broke it. It didn't need replacing. At 23,000 on the new one, just a smidge was worn. Maybe I was just lucky, but I attributed a lot of it to the Mobil 1 I ran.

You need to check them, but some last really long miles while others don't last worth crap. 

That's just it, it's a crap shoot, you don't know when they'll give out, need to give them a check every so often, at least the outer ones. I'm going to check mine this fall and also check the runout at that time. This way I will know what setup I need to order for the cam change.