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[sadunbar]

Awsome stuff Scott! Looks awfully familiar! Wow look at that discoloration. These motors are all doing the same thing. I should'a took pics of that junk. They got some set building motors like this. You're doing the best thing with this motor. I just hopes the bottom holds up now. I'm hearing that the bottom can barely take 96", let alone 110" or 120+ HP. How long you think our bottoms will hold up to the chit we're doing on top? Are the flywheels discolored also?

Now the fun starts. Selecting and collecting all the cool racing chit that goes in! Good luck with the build. Great you can do it yourself. Thanks for taking us along!

Hoist!

Howie,

The flywheels look fine...the bottom end looks solid.  I wish the crank was welded - but I am going to stay out of the bottom end.

Scott

[Fired00d]

I can't say I know the answer to your question, but my opinion is the cylinder wall is thinest in this area, and the blue color is due to heat at this thin area...

Scott

Ok, thanks. I was thinking since you mentioned oil running out when you loosened the cylinder stud bolts that maybe the oil was trapped in there overheating/boiling w/no circulation. Either way whatever the cause was it definitely was something that need attention. Good luck w/getting the total package together and getting back in the wind soon.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Hoist!]

I can't say I know the answer to your question, but my opinion is the cylinder wall is thinest in this area, and the blue color is due to heat at this thin area...

Scott

Absolutely from the heat, but I've seen flywheels discolored from the heat too. And there's no way it should be that hot down there. Mine weren't either. I've seen the flywheels just fall apart after splitting the cases. Pressed fit huh?

I've chosen to stay out of mine too, for now. I'm always gonna worry about the bottom, but I'll deal with that if and when it does grenade itself. Time will tell. But this type of top end should take it. The stuff we're using is good for 175+ HP engines. It should hold up fine in ours. Enjoy yourself!

Hoist!

[110tHunDer]

 
Wow, those are some amazing photos!  Them rear cylinders are definitely running a tad warm, aren't they?   I'm looking forward to seeing what your build consists of, but how many people would have the patience to do what you are going to do to make the bike right?  I mean, for crying out loud, they can't even route the ACR wiring away from the heat of these motors.  What's that say about the rest of the engineering effort?

[sadunbar]

Ok, thanks. I was thinking since you mentioned oil running out when you loosened the cylinder stud bolts that maybe the oil was trapped in there overheating/boiling w/no circulation. Either way whatever the cause was it definitely was something that need attention. Good luck w/getting the total package together and getting back in the wind soon.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

The oil at the base ran out thru the cylinder stud holes - not out of the cylinder.  I never lost compression.  The head gasket at the cylinder bore had not failed.  It only failed at the oil drain return from the top end of the heads.....

[sadunbar]

Wow, those are some amazing photos!  Them rear cylinders are definitely running a tad warm, aren't they?   I'm looking forward to seeing what your build consists of, but how many people would have the patience to do what you are going to do to make the bike right?  I mean, for crying out loud, they can't even route the ACR wiring away from the heat of these motors.  What's that say about the rest of the engineering effort?

The scary part is I would guess most guys drop their bikes off at their dealer and say fix it.  They likely don't see inside it.  New gaskets would not do me much good by themselves, would they...  And yet, the Harley Tech Support will tell anyone who calls that they have developed a new head gasket - and that alone is the fix.  That is right after they act suprised that you have a problem with a leaking head gasket...

Scott

[djkak]

sadunbar,

Great pictures; thanks so much. Could I bother you to take a couple more pictures of both cylinder bores in the natural daylight? The high resolution of your photos allows you to back away from the subject matter a little to ensure a clear focus, while still maintaining a large, detailed image. A couple of pictures of each piston's front and rear skirt would also be great. TIA.

djkak

[rednectum]

teardown photo 4   piston heavily carboned - note vertical heat bands on the cylinder wall at each cylinder stud hole - the front cylinder did not have these vertical blue heat bands...

reference picture 4, is that compression leakage from 4 to 7 oclock? also curious as to why all studs are oily?

those look like httc heads, are they stock or add on? lastly, when disassembling, were head bolts loose?

thanks

[hdbrad03]

Thanks for the pictures. The wife's bike is tore down again at the dealer. At 7165 miles new head gaskets. Now at 19020 miles new liners, pistons and rings front and rear. Valve job on rear head. Valve seal decided to travel with the valve stem pumping oil into cylinder. I will try and get photos to compare.

How is your crank runout? Dealer measured ours and it was ok.

[110tHunDer]

Thanks for the pictures. The wife's bike is tore down again at the dealer. At 7165 miles new head gaskets. Now at 19020 miles new liners, pistons and rings front and rear. Valve job on rear head. Valve seal decided to travel with the valve stem pumping oil into cylinder. I will try and get photos to compare.

How is your crank runout? Dealer measured ours and it was ok.

teardown photo 10  crank runout was .0012

[hogasm]

teardown photo 2  acr wiring insulation melted and stuck to cylinder head

Howie....did you see this.....remind you of something

[Hoist!]

Howie....did you see this.....remind you of something

Everything is all to familiar Brian! Meted ACR wires, excessive heat discoloration, all at the rear. That's where the HG's are blowing. I'm wondering if the blown HG is then causing excessive heat due to oil being blown out, instead of wiping the cylinder walls. Or is the heat causing the gaskets to blow in the first place. Ugly situation regardless. I sure hope what I've done, and what Scott's doing, corrects this, not exacerbates it. I'm glad to hear your flywheels weren't discolored from the heat. Either were mine. The heat seems to be limited to the top end, and primarily the rear cylinder. Scarey chit man!

Red, the studs are wet because the oil fills the cylinder stud holes after it the gasket starts leaking. This is apparent when lifting the cylinders and watching oil pour out from the bottom of the cylinder stud holes, as soon as you lift the cylinder.

Hoist!

[skreminegul07]

teardown photo 2  acr wiring insulation melted and stuck to cylinder head

Thanks for the evidence, I mean photos.  I'm glad my motor was replaced.  It seems to a non engineer that there just isn't enough gasket material geography to alloy an aluminum engine running this hot to seal properly.

How many miles?

Thanks again for the great pictures.

[Bonehead]

I can just about guarantee that every 110 that is leaking at rear of rear cylinder would look exactly like that on the inside. Makes you want to stay close to home doesn't it   Thanks soooo much for the pics.

[Bonehead]

How did the auto chain tensioner look? Mine seems to be very tight and will not release.