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[hogasm]

Have read a few articles on heat treating internal parts of the motor to help it run cooler. One company was www.jet-hot.com

www.hpcoatings.com

www.calicocoatings.com/

What parts are being treated in the twin cam motors and is it worth it?

[reo]

Ive known a few to use Jet-Hot inside the pipes including Hubbard. The pipes run much cooler and they get the heat out of the motor better. They actually will change the tuning of the motor requiring a re-map. The coolest thing is they keep the pipes from turning blue so you don't see the blueish reflection from chrome parts on the motor reflecting the backside of the pipes.


Roy.....

[Dan_Lockwood]

Ive known a few to use Jet-Hot inside the pipes including Hubbard. The pipes run much cooler and they get the heat out of the motor better. They actually will change the tuning of the motor requiring a re-map. The coolest thing is they keep the pipes from turning blue so you don't see the blueish reflection from chrome parts on the motor reflecting the backside of the pipes.


Roy.....

As you guys probably would expect, the streetrod, muscle car, automotive aftermarket in general, uses all types of ceramic insulating coatings.  Jet-Hot and HP are brands that I believe use the same basic ceramic coatings as all the other guys.  Maybe they have a different blend to keep it to their name only, who knows.

Anyway, one of the many car magazines I subscribe to did a test on painted headers versus coated headers.  I would think that chrome would fall into the same category as painted in that I don't think chrome has any insulating qualities.

They use a laser pyrometer and they were getting over 500 degrees on the painted header pipes and it was less than half with the coated pipes.  They do help get the heat out of the motor a lot better, as to the tune of the motor with or without the ceramic coating, they didn't say in the article.

I've got V&H new Dresser Duals setting in the box just waiting for my new SERK Annie.  If I wait for the PCM III to come out for the '08, I would think I'd have tons of time to get them coated.  I'm not sure though if I can just coat the inside.  For that matter if the pipes were bare and the ceramic coating was silver in color, wouldn't the shields pretty much cover up the pipes themselves?



Here's a picture of the headers I had on my Willys.  I had to cut them all apart and then re-weld them as they were BBC headers and I used them on a 392 Hemi.  I bought 2" universal bends and just cut and welded until I had what I needed.  These were ceramic coated, but not by one of the big guys, it was a local coating place and they did a great job.  It cost me $350 do do both headers and the tailpipes.



Here is a picture of what they looked like after one season of running the car, about 6k miles.  Keep in mind that they were blasted everytime I drove the car with road gunk from the from tires.  You can also re-polish the ceramic coating to bring back out the luster of the coating.  I think I read somewhere they even have a "chrome" look coating.

I'm going to check with a local coating guy here in St. Louis and see if he can do the inside of the two pipes without having to remove the chrome from the pipes.  I say that because I'm sure the chrome is on the inside as well, just not polished.

I'll everyone know how it turns out.

Later dudes and dudettes....

[Talon]

I want to coat my stock pipes inside and out, with the heat shields on you won't even see the coating. I'm going to clean up the Y pipe connection on the inside and then get them coated and slip on my V&H classics.

[Scooterhair]

I have used HP coatings a few times and loved it.
If you are doing your stock pipes I would have the inside done only. It will still get the heat out and the exhaust speed goes up.


Scooter   

[reo]

I want to coat my stock pipes inside and out, with the heat shields on you won't even see the coating. I'm going to clean up the Y pipe connection on the inside and then get them coated and slip on my V&H classics.

I totally agree with Scooterhair, just get the inside done. As I said in my previous post: the pipe you see under the heat shield will not even blue, this is of course unless your getting some old pipes done they will still remain blue.

[Talon]

Well I was going to do inside and out to keep corrosion down, can't get behind the heat shields to clean easily, might make putting it back together a little harder, might have to remove a little coating from the connectons, but for the long haul I think it'll look better where you can see it and keep it cleaner. They already look a little off color and are a little blued at the heads.

Here's a thread that explains the uses of these coatings for anyone wanting to know more.

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/137_0312_cermamic_coating_tech/index.html

[hogasm]

In talking with the guys at Jet Hot, they have a new formula that resembles chrome. When they have done pipes with this coating on the inside and outside, they say that it blends in very well with the chrome heat shields.

I am planning to have both inside and outside done. Only $135 for both.

Being on the ocean, this should help cut down on the surface corrosion also.

[reo]

In talking with the guys at Jet Hot, they have a new formula that resembles chrome. When they have done pipes with this coating on the inside and outside, they say that it blends in very well with the chrome heat shields.

I am planning to have both inside and outside done. Only $135 for both.

Being on the ocean, this should help cut down on the surface corrosion also.

Is that for the falsie too....just kidding.

Good price I payed more for that three years ago just doing the inside of a set of Rinehart stagers.


Roy....

[hogasm]

Thought i would bring up a little problem that has occurred. I had the heads powdercoated cobalt blue and then  diamond cut.

Problem is that a thermal burn at 600 degrees for 2-4 hours needs to be done before thermal coating the combustion chamber. HPC does not want to do this with the heads powder coated. They are afraid that the higher heat will cause the powder coat to burn.

Guess what I am trying to say here is.... don't put the cart in front of the horse. Do a little homework before doing your build.

[spydglide]

Thought i would bring up a little problem that has occurred. I had the heads powdercoated cobalt blue and then  diamond cut.

Problem is that a thermal burn at 600 degrees for 2-4 hours needs to be done before thermal coating the combustion chamber. HPC does not want to do this with the heads powder coated. They are afraid that the higher heat will cause the powder coat to burn.

Guess what I am trying to say here is.... don't put the cart in front of the horse. Do a little homework before doing your build.

I'm waiting with great anticipation on what you're gonna do now.. ...spyder

[Twolanerider]

Brian, is there any way that a little Easy Off might help this process along ?






























 

[SneakyPete]

Brian, is there any way that a little Easy Off might help this process along ?


































 

Too cruel Don

[Puzzled]

For internal parts in my race car motor I have them cryrogenically treated. Jet-Hot and such is a coating thus leaving a build up. Jet-Hot should be left for exhausts and bumpers not for use on go fast engine parts.

[spydglide]

For internal parts in my race car motor I have them cryrogenically treated. Jet-Hot and such is a coating thus leaving a build up. Jet-Hot should be left for exhausts and bumpers not for use on go fast engine parts.

Do the proper authorities know of this?  har!  spyder