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Author Topic: HOW-TO-----Trailering  (Read 8293 times)

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grmmpy

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HOW-TO-----Trailering
« on: November 20, 2007, 07:56:54 AM »

This is going to sound stupid and I appologize from the get go............

I am going to be trailering my new ride; but I have never trailered a bagger before.  All my others have never been trailered or they didn't have saddle bags.

What is the best way to trailer a bagger?  2 tie downs/4 tie downs?  and where is the best placement.  I know the handle bar straps work great and I have used them before, but the rear end is my concern.

Thanks for all the assistance.
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CVOwner

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2007, 08:06:47 AM »

4 tie downs, 2 on the bars, 2 on the rear. I usually use two ratchet tie downs looped through the rear tire to keep it from swaying or bouncing, some people I've seen loop through the bag guards or the passenger floorboards. I have an enclosed trailer and use a front tire holder called the bike pro.
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Bubba

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2007, 08:21:29 AM »

I use a Wheel Dock   www.wheeldock.com   in the trailer just ride in and push the lock is it is there.  Your bike is secure, as for tie downs I usually put four but I DO NOT go to the  handles bars.  I tie with soft ties slings around the top of the crash bars around the frame and hook a Powertye Big Daddy's 2" tie downs with Ratchet to that and off to the D-ring this will hold the bike well and no stress on the bars.  As for as the back I come off the Passenger floor board supports and slightly anchoring forward just to keep the bike pulling into the wheel chock and to keep the bike from bouncing side to side as if a 900lb Motorcycle does that.  ;D

I had to take my bike to the shop which is 80 miles away and on the interstate at 75-80 mph I had a blow out on my trailer and it whipped around pretty good the bike stayed put boy was I happy so now I thinking about putting two more straps attached to different d-rings just in case.

~bubba~
« Last Edit: November 20, 2007, 08:24:44 AM by Bubba »
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SBB

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2007, 08:25:42 AM »

Gmmpy

Be careful tying to the handlebars. If the bars are not tightened enough in their clamps they will roll down and the bike falls. I use the bars only as a backup and don't have the straps very tight.
Try the frame in front of the motor as high as can be reached, or the fork legs just above where the fender attaches.
Tie down extensions are great for those areas.

Also the saddlebag supports are very flexible and will bend. The passenger peg mounting bracket is a great place to tie the rear down.

Use of a front tire support is a great idea. Plus you can use one of the straps from the Harley shop to lock it in.


Trust me, a fairing rubbing up against a trailer wall is not a pretty site!


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grmmpy

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2007, 08:39:52 AM »

thanks for all the info, I had always been concerned about the fairing rubbing and thought that the front D-rings were a little too far forward for comfort.

I knew about the weakness of the rear bag crash bars and thought that the only solution would be to take the bags off and secure to the frame.

my SE has the rims that I think I can do a loop with from 2 different staps just to keep it from sliding left or right.

I appreciate all the assistance, and will be looking forward to a safe trailering experience.........going to pick up a new enclosed Haulmark low hauler just need to decide on a 12 or 14 footer, it is only $200.00 difference in price and I will only be caring my 2008 SE Ultra and haven't decided if the 2 extra foot is needed.  I know everyone says go bigger and then you won't be wishing you had..........who knows........have a good one and be safe out there
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SBB

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2007, 08:46:12 AM »

thanks for all the info, I had always been concerned about the fairing rubbing and thought that the front D-rings were a little too far forward for comfort.

I knew about the weakness of the rear bag crash bars and thought that the only solution would be to take the bags off and secure to the frame.

my SE has the rims that I think I can do a loop with from 2 different staps just to keep it from sliding left or right.

I appreciate all the assistance, and will be looking forward to a safe trailering experience.........going to pick up a new enclosed Haulmark low hauler just need to decide on a 12 or 14 footer, it is only $200.00 difference in price and I will only be caring my 2008 SE Ultra and haven't decided if the 2 extra foot is needed.  I know everyone says go bigger and then you won't be wishing you had..........who knows........have a good one and be safe out there


OK Grmmpy

You have two post on this site.
That will change.
12' is fine but you will need the extra 2'.
Why? you ask, because the more your on this site the more you will buy.
Then what happens? You get another bike. NOW remember that 2' you didn't think you needed.
Grmmpy, go for the gusto! You will need it if you hang on this site!

Good luck!
And BTW, welcome to the site!
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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #6 on: November 20, 2007, 08:55:57 AM »

Two tie downs to the frame in front of the motor as high as possible, 2 tie downs to the front crash bars (safety backup), 2 tie downs thru the rear wheel, and a tie down thru the front wheel thru the front wheel chock.  Overkill I know, but safe.  I would not put any tie downs to the handlebars.  With the internal wired bars, the center of the handlebars are drilled for wiring, creating a potential break point.

The fellow that bought my 04 SEEG left my house (against my advice) with the bike only tied down to the handlebars in the front and to the rear crash bars.  Somewhere between Illiniois and Kansas, the handle bars broke.  It was sheer luck that he didn't loose the bike off the trailer...  :'(

later...Scott
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REGGAB

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #7 on: November 20, 2007, 09:16:05 AM »

Using a front wheel chock, I tie down with 6 points.  Hog ties around the engine guard and frame where the two meet under the steering neck and tied to floor.  Straps from each front floorboard support tied to floor.  Straps from each passenger footboard support tied to floor.  Very solid. I've never liked tieing to the handlebars, because the steering neck pivot seems unstable to me.  Then there's that strap rub on the inner fairing thing.
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chaos901

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #8 on: November 20, 2007, 09:48:07 AM »

I always put two sets on the front, using the frame just above the engine guard, and one set on the back, most times the frame that goes to the bag supports. 

As the others have stated, the only time that I use the handle bars is as a back-up and not real tight.
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miker

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #9 on: November 20, 2007, 09:56:07 AM »

thanks for all the info, I had always been concerned about the fairing rubbing and thought that the front D-rings were a little too far forward for comfort.

I knew about the weakness of the rear bag crash bars and thought that the only solution would be to take the bags off and secure to the frame.

my SE has the rims that I think I can do a loop with from 2 different staps just to keep it from sliding left or right.

I appreciate all the assistance, and will be looking forward to a safe trailering experience.........going to pick up a new enclosed Haulmark low hauler just need to decide on a 12 or 14 footer, it is only $200.00 difference in price and I will only be caring my 2008 SE Ultra and haven't decided if the 2 extra foot is needed.  I know everyone says go bigger and then you won't be wishing you had..........who knows........have a good one and be safe out there

Like  a gun safe, bigger is better.  Those 2 feet you need, you just don't what for yet.  I have the 14 and it is adequate and I wish I had the extra room for a tack boxes, coolers, gas cans you know stuff like that.

Miker
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deucedog

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #10 on: November 20, 2007, 09:57:58 AM »

I used a 6.5" Pingle Chock for the tire.  Pingle Rachet ties and Sheepskin Soft extension on 4 points of the bike.  No fairing rub.  The important thing is that the D rings on the floor of the trailer have to be heavy duty and mounted (four bolts) with a steel backplate underneath the trailer floor (usually plywood).  Don't use a D ring that's using wood screws to hold them in.

I run a 6x10 Interstate trailer - enough room for only one HD, and long enough by about 1.5'.  I can also fit 2 skinny dirt bikes in there when I need a dirt fix.  ;)
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Hugh Janis

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #11 on: November 20, 2007, 10:04:41 AM »

I don't know if I'm stating the obvious but since it hasn't been mentioned yet....

The 1st strap goes loosely on the kickstand side.  The second goes on the right side and is tightened.  This brings the bike upright and the 1st strap keeps it from falling over.  The straps, when possible should be placed high.  The stresses are a lot more when placed low on a heavy bike with a center of gravity higher than other Harleys.
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Cerdo

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #12 on: November 20, 2007, 06:49:30 PM »

We tow four baggers at a time in a enclosed Pace trailer. Have the wheel stops for the front tires and use three straps. Two straps high up on the handlebars and one strap wrapped around the rear tire and pulling slightly backwards.

We use those soft tie downs and grab the handlebars right near the yoke and where the bar just begins to move upward and have never had a problem rubbing anything. I like to tie them up high to keep them in place and leaning over. The trailer is tight inside and I feel much better having the straps up high keeping this much weight in place.

We take the one rear strap and pass it around the tire and rim two times and then tighten it down. This keeps the rear tire in place and the bikes from sliding side to side and hitting each other. Use a soft micro fiber cloth on the rim!

Towing this way for years and have never had a problem. One close call and one blown tire and the bikes have never moved or hit each other or the inside of the trailer.

All in all I would rather ride than trailer and sometimes we do exactly that. Weather permitting, one guy driving with his scoot in the trailer and the other three riding. Switch off every once in a while. Traveling from Cleveland south in January or February can always be dicey and the WV turnpike in the winter can be outright dangerous. The trailer is a must!

Cerdo
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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #13 on: November 20, 2007, 08:36:29 PM »

Here's an image of how I tie down the front. I removed the chrome trim piece at the bottom of the yoke so I can get the straps over the triple tree piece. Don't like using the handle bars to tie down with. The other set of straps go around the frame and top of the engine guard. I have four more straps on the back, two each side. One on each side to the crash guards pulling forward and one on each side pulling back and down. Overkill I know. I now have a Condor chock. Works great, you can drive into it and get off. The bike is held vertically in place which makes it really easy to tie down.

http://www.condor-lift.com/product.asp?ItemID=1011
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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #14 on: November 21, 2007, 09:26:33 AM »

I run four tie-down straps on my bike when in the toy hauler.  Two w/sheepskin soft ties on the handlebars angled forward (may have to rethink that now after reading these posts), but haven't had any problems, and two on the rear crash bars angled slightly to the rear.  I drive the bike into a Bike Pro wheel chock and it keeps the bike locked in place and standing upright.  I've not had any problems using the handle bar mounting method, but perhaps because my toy hauler has triple axles, it takes a lot of the road harshness out of the ride and the bike doesn't get jostled around as much...I don't know. :nixweiss:
Cheers :2vrolijk_21:,
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« Last Edit: November 21, 2007, 09:31:56 AM by RedDevil »
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