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[RedDevil]

I'm running Mobil 1 in all three areas right now, but will probably switch to Redline for the Tranny.  Although "independent" tests show that Mobil1 and and Amsoil are the top brands, I haven't noticed any appreciable differences since swithing from Syn3 to Mobil 1.  Some have claimed that their bikes run a few degrees cooler, mine is still running at the same temp...around 215 normal riding...
Cheers ,
 

[spydglide]

Still running the over-priced HD syn in all holes....coming up on 50K miles on the seeg....still running/shifting great.     har!  spyder

[SirMichael]

 I use Redline in all!!  Redline "Shockproof" is good stuff!!

 Mine was not a CVO, but it was a 113 and I liked the redline oil!!


                                                                                MIKE

[SnakePlisken]

Yea, I too am curious about this. I currently (of course) use the Syn3 and am wondering if I should use something different. I've read about the other oils; but do you think they are really that much better?

[SirMichael]

Yea, I too am curious about this. I currently (of course) use the Syn3 and am wondering if I should use something different. I've read about the other oils; but do you think they are really that much better?

 Redline, Redline, or Redline!!    



                                                                       

                         
                                                       

[grc]

Yea, I too am curious about this. I currently (of course) use the Syn3 and am wondering if I should use something different. I've read about the other oils; but do you think they are really that much better?

Do you change your own fliuds, or have the dealer do it?  If you do it yourself, pick one of the top rated products that you can easily obtain locally (Amsoil, Mobil-1, etc.), buy it in case lots and save some $$$.  If you have your dealer change the fluids, in many cases you won't have a choice since most dealers I've ever encountered only offer H-D fluids in their service departments.

I personally run Mobil-1 V-Twin in the engine and primary, and Redline Shockproof Heavy in the transmission.  This is where I wound up after years of experimenting with other products, especially in the transmission, and I have no hesitation at all about recommending these products to anyone and everyone on this site.  However, I cannot in all honesty state that they are the only products I could recommend, or that other products like SYN-3 are vastly inferior.  All major brands that meet the appropriate API service rating and SAE/ASTM standards will perform satisfactorily (by definition, since they meet those standards).  If you go with an oil with a slightly better wear rating, will you be able to tell the difference?  Not likely unless you put a lot more miles on your bike than the average Harley owner, or keep it for 30 years.  The biggest difference, one that you can in fact quantify, is in using synthetic versus the old "dino" oil (you know, that stuff that H-D told us we had to use rather than synthetic, back before they finally came out with SYN-3).  I would not recommend using a non-synthetic in a late model air cooled Harley engine, period.

Jerry

[spydglide]

Do you change your own fliuds, or have the dealer do it?  If you do it yourself, pick one of the top rated products that you can easily obtain locally (Amsoil, Mobil-1, etc.), buy it in case lots and save some $$$.  If you have your dealer change the fluids, in many cases you won't have a choice since most dealers I've ever encountered only offer H-D fluids in their service departments.

I personally run Mobil-1 V-Twin in the engine and primary, and Redline Shockproof Heavy in the transmission.  This is where I wound up after years of experimenting with other products, especially in the transmission, and I have no hesitation at all about recommending these products to anyone and everyone on this site.  However, I cannot in all honesty state that they are the only products I could recommend, or that other products like SYN-3 are vastly inferior.  All major brands that meet the appropriate API service rating and SAE/ASTM standards will perform satisfactorily (by definition, since they meet those standards).  If you go with an oil with a slightly better wear rating, will you be able to tell the difference?  Not likely unless you put a lot more miles on your bike than the average Harley owner, or keep it for 30 years.  The biggest difference, one that you can in fact quantify, is in using synthetic versus the old "dino" oil (you know, that stuff that H-D told us we had to use rather than synthetic, back before they finally came out with SYN-3).  I would not recommend using a non-synthetic in a late model air cooled Harley engine, period.

Jerry

Yeah Jerry, I think you just really called the bottom line on the oil questions.....it's all boiling down to personal preferences after these facts.  And what's available.....they're all really close and not significantly better or worse.  Some dealers are carrying Amsoil now and that makes it easier to have a choice locally.  Thanks for the post.  har!    spyder

[Hoist!]

Do you change your own fliuds, or have the dealer do it?  If you do it yourself, pick one of the top rated products that you can easily obtain locally (Amsoil, Mobil-1, etc.), buy it in case lots and save some $$$.  If you have your dealer change the fluids, in many cases you won't have a choice since most dealers I've ever encountered only offer H-D fluids in their service departments.

I personally run Mobil-1 V-Twin in the engine and primary, and Redline Shockproof Heavy in the transmission.  This is where I wound up after years of experimenting with other products, especially in the transmission, and I have no hesitation at all about recommending these products to anyone and everyone on this site.  However, I cannot in all honesty state that they are the only products I could recommend, or that other products like SYN-3 are vastly inferior.  All major brands that meet the appropriate API service rating and SAE/ASTM standards will perform satisfactorily (by definition, since they meet those standards).  If you go with an oil with a slightly better wear rating, will you be able to tell the difference?  Not likely unless you put a lot more miles on your bike than the average Harley owner, or keep it for 30 years.  The biggest difference, one that you can in fact quantify, is in using synthetic versus the old "dino" oil (you know, that stuff that H-D told us we had to use rather than synthetic, back before they finally came out with SYN-3).  I would not recommend using a non-synthetic in a late model air cooled Harley engine, period.

Jerry

Jerry, what's your feeling about the recommendation by some to do the initial break-in with Dino oil, then switch? Thanks.

Hoist!

[grc]

Jerry, what's your feeling about the recommendation by some to do the initial break-in with Dino oil, then switch? Thanks.

Hoist!

Howie,

For a modern regular production engine, there is no benefit that I can find to following a protracted break-in procedure using either type of oil.  Modern production engines are machined to much tighter tolerances and use advances like specially coated piston skirts, micro finish bores, piston rings, valve guides, etc. which require much less "break-in".  In other words, if an engine is designed and machined properly the break-in period isn't all that important, other than avoiding obvious issues like overheating.  A strict routine is no longer required, just basic common sense, and synthetic oil has been shown to have no adverse affect on break-in.

The only time I would revert to dino oil for break-in is if I purchased an engine from a builder that specified that requirement (like S&S still does).  Not that I believe they have any scientific proof that their requirement makes any difference, but since you're handing them a pile of money and want them to stand behind their product it makes good sense to follow their instructions.

Jerry

[Hoist!]

Howie,

For a modern regular production engine, there is no benefit that I can find to following a protracted break-in procedure using either type of oil.  Modern production engines are machined to much tighter tolerances and use advances like specially coated piston skirts, micro finish bores, piston rings, valve guides, etc. which require much less "break-in".  In other words, if an engine is designed and machined properly the break-in period isn't all that important, other than avoiding obvious issues like overheating.  A strict routine is no longer required, just basic common sense, and synthetic oil has been shown to have no adverse affect on break-in.

The only time I would revert to dino oil for break-in is if I purchased an engine from a builder that specified that requirement (like S&S still does).  Not that I believe they have any scientific proof that their requirement makes any difference, but since you're handing them a pile of money and want them to stand behind their product it makes good sense to follow their instructions.

Jerry

I agree about factory engines. I might as well be specific now. What about a hand-built, Timken bottom end, S&S crank, 110" custom engine, getting ready to be completed? Thanks Jerry.

Hoist!

[sadunbar]

Jerry, what's your feeling about the recommendation by some to do the initial break-in with Dino oil, then switch? Thanks.

Hoist!

I followed the same rule I always did with the V-8 motors...coated the cylinders, pistons (side walls), rings (and all the other critical areas like cam bearings, cam lobes, lifters, rocker arms, push rods, ect., ect.) with a high quality assembly lube.  In my recent build, I used Redline Synthetic Assembly Lube.  Then I filled her up with Mobil 1 V twin.  After 4 or 5 heat cycles, I drained it all out  - replaced the filter, filled her up again with Mobil 1 V twin...and hope to be good to go!

Scott

[ultrafxr]

Jerry, what's your feeling about the recommendation by some to do the initial break-in with Dino oil, then switch? Thanks.

Hoist!

When I had the BB kit put in my '99 I broke it in with Syn 3.  My '06 melon came with Syn 3.  Ditto my jester and the new engine in the jester.  Never had any problem breaking in.  Just did my initial oil change on new engine and now has Mobil 1.

[grc]

I agree about factory engines. I might as well be specific now. What about a hand-built, Timken bottom end, S&S crank, 110" custom engine, getting ready to be completed? Thanks Jerry.

Hoist!

I forgot to mention one reason that using dino oil for initial fill makes sense; if you intend to dump the initial fill after 50 or even 500 miles, it's a lot less expensive than dumping 4 quarts of the high priced stuff.  What you are basically doing with this type of break-in is using the initial fill oil to perform a final cleaning of the engines interior.  If your engine was machined properly and cleaned properly prior to assembly, shouldn't be necessary to dump the oil that early.

Actually Howie, after all you've gone through you may want to use the old style break-in routine.  It may be worth it just for peace of mind.  Start out with dino oil, go through the heat soak routine with at least 3 repetitions, dump the oil and filter.  Fill with dino oil, run at varying throttle/load settings for 50 miles, dump oil and filter.  Fill with dino oil, run at varying throttle/load settings for 500 miles, dump oil and filter.  Retorque head bolts and critical fasteners, fill with synthetic oil, ride normally (well, normal for most of us anyway).  That is one variation, I believe S&S has their version posted on their web site.

Good luck my friend, I wish you only the best with your new 110.  Assuming this build fixes all the issues, and I have reason to believe it will, you should finally get to enjoy your SERK.

Jerry

[Hoist!]

I forgot to mention one reason that using dino oil for initial fill makes sense; if you intend to dump the initial fill after 50 or even 500 miles, it's a lot less expensive than dumping 4 quarts of the high priced stuff.  What you are basically doing with this type of break-in is using the initial fill oil to perform a final cleaning of the engines interior.  If your engine was machined properly and cleaned properly prior to assembly, shouldn't be necessary to dump the oil that early.

Actually Howie, after all you've gone through you may want to use the old style break-in routine.  It may be worth it just for peace of mind.  Start out with dino oil, go through the heat soak routine with at least 3 repetitions, dump the oil and filter.  Fill with dino oil, run at varying throttle/load settings for 50 miles, dump oil and filter.  Fill with dino oil, run at varying throttle/load settings for 500 miles, dump oil and filter.  Retorque head bolts and critical fasteners, fill with synthetic oil, ride normally (well, normal for most of us anyway).  That is one variation, I believe S&S has their version posted on their web site.

Good luck my friend, I wish you only the best with your new 110.  Assuming this build fixes all the issues, and I have reason to believe it will, you should finally get to enjoy your SERK.

Jerry

Thank you very much Jerry!

Funny you mention that break-in method. I still do that with factory motors too!

Old habits are hard to break. I just figured if I did it the old school way, it would far exceed any mfr break-in requirements, and all my engines would be happier!

Hoist!

[SnakePlisken]

Nice info folks. It seems to me that many do not use Syn3 in their bikes anymore; but it does seem like a very good convenience that you can use this in all 3 holes regardless of the xtra loot spent.  I have met someone who uses mobil in his bike and his oil was still yellow with 5k miles on it. So I still wonder on this topic? I am leaning towards using something different in at least the motor itself. Very good food for thought. Thanx.

- Jim