Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Trapperdog]

After purchasing a trailer (wags pet) and installing Bushtec hitch, 5 pin wiring harness with plug and J & M interconnect harness the bike and trailer lights functioned erratically. After 3 hours diagnosis I found I had no ground to any of the rear bike and trailer lights. I decided to forgo an isolator and instead wired in-line fuses (less ground) to the trailer harness. I found that J & M harness wired it's ground into pin #4 on the Deutsch connector, which is non existant in the HD rear connectors, 7a and 7b. I checked the manual and ground is indeed pin #5 on 7a and 7b. I also checked an enlarged pic of J & M's harness and as mine, ground is wired to pin #4.
Has anyone else encountered this problem with the J & M harness?
After switching the #4 and 5 wires in the J & M deutsch connector, the lights on both the bike and the trailer now all funtion properly but...
with the ignition on and engine off, I can now slightly hear my turn indicators and a hum over my speakers (Hawg wired system), even with the radio off. The hum is only evedent when the brake/running/signal conversion module is installed (aft of the J & M harness). I am not sure if the sound was there before the trailer install. Enclosed pic of the J & M, notice the w wire spliced with the b/r wire in pin #4, Thanks, Roger

[Chief]

After purchasing a trailer (wags pet) and installing Bushtec hitch, 5 pin wiring harness with plug and J & M interconnect harness the bike and trailer lights functioned erratically. After 3 hours diagnosis I found I had no ground to any of the rear bike and trailer lights. I decided to forgo an isolator and instead wired in-line fuses (less ground) to the trailer harness. I found that J & M harness wired it's ground into pin #4 on the Deutsch connector, which is non existant in the HD rear connectors, 7a and 7b. I checked the manual and ground is indeed pin #5 on 7a and 7b. I also checked an enlarged pic of J & M's harness and as mine, ground is wired to pin #4.
Has anyone else encountered this problem with the J & M harness?
After switching the #4 and 5 wires in the J & M deutsch connector, the lights on both the bike and the trailer now all funtion properly but...
with the ignition on and engine off, I can now slightly hear my turn indicators and a hum over my speakers (Hawg wired system), even with the radio off. The hum is only evedent when the brake/running/signal conversion module is installed (aft of the J & M harness). I am not sure if the sound was there before the trailer install. Enclosed pic of the J & M, notice the w wire spliced with the b/r wire in pin #4, Thanks, Roger

I haven't used the break-out like you, but removing it and testing your radio problem will let you know if it is involved. Who's run/turn/brake module did you use?

[VAZHOG]

After purchasing a trailer (wags pet) and installing Bushtec hitch, 5 pin wiring harness with plug and J & M interconnect harness the bike and trailer lights functioned erratically. After 3 hours diagnosis I found I had no ground to any of the rear bike and trailer lights. I decided to forgo an isolator and instead wired in-line fuses (less ground) to the trailer harness. I found that J & M harness wired it's ground into pin #4 on the Deutsch connector, which is non existant in the HD rear connectors, 7a and 7b. I checked the manual and ground is indeed pin #5 on 7a and 7b. I also checked an enlarged pic of J & M's harness and as mine, ground is wired to pin #4.
Has anyone else encountered this problem with the J & M harness?
After switching the #4 and 5 wires in the J & M deutsch connector, the lights on both the bike and the trailer now all funtion properly but...
with the ignition on and engine off, I can now slightly hear my turn indicators and a hum over my speakers (Hawg wired system), even with the radio off. The hum is only evedent when the brake/running/signal conversion module is installed (aft of the J & M harness). I am not sure if the sound was there before the trailer install. Enclosed pic of the J & M, notice the w wire spliced with the b/r wire in pin #4, Thanks, Roger

Unplug your wiring see if it clears, The Isolator keeps your trailer wiring Isolated from the bikes ECM as well - If it uses more voltage than  the ecm is programed for it will cause the ecm to throw a code, To save money in Manufactor the stock bike wiring is really gone down is guage, That is the main reason for Isolated products to be introduced. Wiring your Lights thru a fuse is okay as long as the fuse is small.

Lewis can explain it better than I can http://electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns-trailer.htm

[hard10]

After purchasing a trailer (wags pet) ...Thanks, Roger

Hold on! I want pictures!

       
Of the trailer that is

[VAZHOG]

http://www.wagstrailers.com/pet_trailer.asp

Can you say G_ _ !

[Trapperdog]

I haven't used the break-out like you, but removing it and testing your radio problem will let you know if it is involved. Who's run/turn/brake module did you use?

Hey Chief, I used H D's module (put it in when bike was new). Even with the break-out removed, I still have speaker indicater noise and hum. Removal of the H D modual eliminates the hum weather the breakout is instaled or removed, but not the speaker ticking from the indicators.

How's your bike doing?

[Trapperdog]

Unplug your wiring see if it clears, The Isolator keeps your trailer wiring Isolated from the bikes ECM as well - If it uses more voltage than  the ecm is programed for it will cause the ecm to throw a code, To save money in Manufactor the stock bike wiring is really gone down is guage, That is the main reason for Isolated products to be introduced. Wiring your Lights thru a fuse is okay as long as the fuse is small.

Lewis can explain it better than I can http://electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns-trailer.htm
Thanks Vaz, I will check it out. After reading about several members problems with isolaters I went with the fuse idea. The trailer does have a lot of lights..do you think I would be better off with an isolater? Thanks, Roger

[Trapperdog]

Hold on! I want pictures!

       
Of the trailer that is

Hard10, Pics to follow when I get the bike and trailer wired properly and out of the barn. Check out Vazhog's link for a preview though.

[Chief]

Hey Chief, I used H D's module (put it in when bike was new). Even with the break-out removed, I still have speaker indicater noise and hum. Removal of the H D modual eliminates the hum weather the breakout is instaled or removed, but not the speaker ticking from the indicators.

How's your bike doing?

TD,

This isn't based on anything but a WAG. You may have a bad/loose ground for the HW amp. Can you go around the amp and see if it's in your radio? Those ground gremlins cause a lot of problems.

My rear lighting circuit now looks like this: Factory Feed : Home-made trailer break-out : Kury run/turn/brake module : home-made saddlebag lid spoiler breakout : Factory fender harness.

I have not noticed any extra noise in the radio, but I don't have the HW amp installed.

The bike is pretty, got a whopping 10 miles on it post rebuild. Hoping to put on many more on Sunday doing some pre-riding for the CHL trip. Now that I think about it, that's how it all began last year.  

[Trapperdog]

http://www.wagstrailers.com/pet_trailer.asp

Can you say G_ _ !

"G_ _" ? OK, you guys can raz me later after everything is working properly and I post pics., The little woman had to have the trailer for our Austrailian Shepard to come along with us. (She rides her own FLHX) Some times ya gotta pick your battles if you know what I mean.

[VAZHOG]

Roger, The Isolator use One thirty amp fuse connected to the + battery that would be a lot easier to find in the dark , holding a flashlight in your teeth, taking the seat off in the rain fiinding that than a bunch of indv fuses wadded up under the seat But hey that just me.  CAll Lewis and will answer any and all of your wiring questions.

[Trapperdog]

TD,

This isn't based on anything but a WAG. You may have a bad/loose ground for the HW amp. Can you go around the amp and see if it's in your radio? Those ground gremlins cause a lot of problems.

My rear lighting circuit now looks like this: Factory Feed : Home-made trailer break-out : Kury run/turn/brake module : home-made saddlebag lid spoiler breakout : Factory fender harness.

I have not noticed any extra noise in the radio, but I don't have the HW amp installed.

The bike is pretty, got a whopping 10 miles on it post rebuild. Hoping to put on many more on Sunday doing some pre-riding for the CHL trip. Now that I think about it, that's how it all began last year.  

I thought of that too, was hoping to avoid pulling the fairing to check on amp grounds but will take a look at amp frame ground!

Get out there and show off that great looking bike!

[Trapperdog]

Roger, The Isolator use One thirty amp fuse connected to the + battery that would be a lot easier to find in the dark , holding a flashlight in your teeth, taking the seat off in the rain fiinding that than a bunch of indv fuses wadded up under the seat But hey that just me.  CAll Lewis and will answer any and all of your wiring questions.

I prefere my head straped lamp though. That is true, I have so many wires under the seat after the tour pack removal it's looking like a rats nest, but neater>Thanks, Roger

[ultrafxr]

Roger, The Isolator use One thirty amp fuse connected to the + battery that would be a lot easier to find in the dark , holding a flashlight in your teeth, taking the seat off in the rain fiinding that than a bunch of indv fuses wadded up under the seat But hey that just me.  CAll Lewis and will answer any and all of your wiring questions.

I know there has been a lot of talk about the isolator and problems with it.  Run an isolator on Bushtec on three different bikes for 9 years and nary a problem.  Vaz I gotta agree with your assessment about one fuse.

[Chief]

Roger, The Isolator use One thirty amp fuse connected to the + battery that would be a lot easier to find in the dark , holding a flashlight in your teeth, taking the seat off in the rain fiinding that than a bunch of indv fuses wadded up under the seat But hey that just me.  CAll Lewis and will answer any and all of your wiring questions.

Fuse? We don't need no stinkin fuse. My thinking is that the rear lighting harnessis already fused so I blew, no pun intended, off that wiring detail. Double fusing a circuit didn't seem necessary.