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Author Topic: Tiedown Specs  (Read 11033 times)

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sadunbar

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #30 on: March 29, 2008, 10:29:40 PM »

The trailer was "Rhinolined" to seal the entire bottom. Able to just hose it out for cleanup.

That is an excellent feature...  I have done the same thing in the past.  Makes keeping things clean a much easier task...
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #31 on: March 29, 2008, 10:31:48 PM »

I split the beaver tail as I wanted the ALT to go all the way to the rear, so it would be through bolted into the frame.

I also moved the beaver tail rearward. In its original position it could have an interference issue with the center or right side bike.

And it has actually caused damage to another members 05 SEEG. (small dent in the rear fender) when we were driving through those chitty roads (I95) in New York.

Moving them back allows the flaps to lay on the floor when the door is closed. Before they would bounce between the rear door and the tailpipes on the bike.

Until you hit that big bump and the bike bounces up a little bit and comes down on the flap  :-[
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:44:12 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #32 on: March 29, 2008, 10:41:37 PM »

That is an excellent feature...  I have done the same thing in the past.  Makes keeping things clean a much easier task...


It is nice and it adds some traction, especially when rolling the bike out of the trailer.

But, it ain't cheap  :o
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resqdoc

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #33 on: March 29, 2008, 11:16:20 PM »

Does this mean you are not using any straps in the front?

Even though my Bike Pro chocks hold the bike securely I would never travel without two straps going up to the front end someplace.
Too much lateral load without the "triangular" support.

Yes, The Wheeldock is sized to snuggly fit your front tire. No wobble or side to side rock. Much more rigid and higher reaching than a pingle.

A single tie down goes through the bottom/front edge of the front wheel (Wheeldock frame through front rim to other side of Wheeldock frame) to absolutely secure the bike from moving backward.

It might be easier to picture by going to their website and viewing the short videos or here is the owner's manual http://www.wheeldock.com/pdf/Wheeldock_Manual.pdf

A major benefit of this system is it allows the suspension to flex as you go down the road (ever ride inside a trailer going down the road?) Extra strapping and "triangular support" defeats the purpose.

I've towed many ways, many miles. This is the most effective system I've seen; it also happens to be much less complicated and easier to use.
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #34 on: March 29, 2008, 11:32:19 PM »

Much more rigid and higher reaching than a pingle.


Same with the Bike Pro. I don't care for the Pingle, too small.

A single tie down goes through the bottom/front edge of the front wheel


I'm doing the same except I am going over the tire.


A major benefit of this system is it allows the suspension to flex as you go down the road) Extra strapping and "triangular support" defeats the purpose.


Same with the way I do it. I use the extra straps to stop the side to side movement.
BTW, the Wheel Dock instructions and the video specify straps up high to steady the bike.


ever ride inside a trailer going down the  road



The main reason I got the torsion axles, and two of them at that.

Without straps mounted up high there would be undue stress on the lower third of the wheel, I don't care whose chock you use. I just wouldn't trust the wheel not to get bent or the chock to fail.
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resqdoc

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #35 on: March 29, 2008, 11:46:46 PM »

Porthole, excellent points. From the pictures of your set-up you too have developed a secure system (through some of the same trial and error I've experienced no doubt).

Basically, we agree on trailer lay out and securing the bikes. However, the rear straps in the wheel dock video do stop the bike from wobbling side to side, as well as "tail wagging."

In your final pictures you do an excellent job of showing how secure your set-up is. You do mention doubling the straps for really long trips.....that's 12 straps per bike. I'm using 3 and holding fast on some really rough Southwest roads.

The important thing is paying attention to the underlying concepts we are both speaking to.  :drink: :drink:


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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #36 on: March 30, 2008, 12:30:38 AM »

Basically, we agree on trailer lay out and securing the bikes. However, the rear straps in the wheel dock video do stop the bike from wobbling side to side, as well as "tail wagging."


You didn't mention you were using the rear straps. The way you presented it it appeared you were using only the the front "through the wheel" strap.

I don't care for the way they just go over the seat in the video and prefer to grab either the rear bar (behind the seat) or the saddlebag guards, with 2 instead of one tie down.

In your final pictures you do an excellent job of showing how secure your set-up is. You do mention doubling the straps for really long trips.....that's 12 straps per bike.


I guess I should have been a little clearer on that I might double up some of them not all. And that is only because I have a sufficient number of loops and straps


In your final pictures you do an excellent job of showing how secure your set-up is. You do mention doubling the straps for really long trips.....that's 12 straps per bike. I'm using 3 and holding fast on some really rough Southwest roads.


I haven't tried just using rear straps instead of the front and rear. Have to give it a whirl next time.

I use a minimum of 4, one over the front wheel, 2 from the upper forks (not compressing the forks though) and one around the rear wheel. Actually, with the trailer Rhinolined and the rear wheel strap snugged down the bike doesn't dance at all.

My thoughts about adding a few extra for long rides is piece of mind and any 2nd strap is not made as tight as the primary, sort of a backup.

Judging for your screen name you already know "chit happens". You just never know.

That last picture you are talking about I did not remove the wheel strap after putting the two upper  straps on.
But I have come to feel having a strap around the rear wheel pulling rearward can't hurt.
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old wrench

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #37 on: March 30, 2008, 08:34:46 AM »

 :2vrolijk_21: Nice trailer Port, seems like those trailer are just like the bikes you have to add to them even if you had them built or built them the way you wanted it, there is always something else you find out you need or need to change. Is that a fire extingusher by the door hehehe are you a fireman, just funnin ya. Then spare tire inside ooohhhh ya, the winch for the dead ones, rhino lined that stuff is sweet, they are just like the bikes a guy can just keep addiing to them. Looks good dude  :pepper:

Tell me one thing how many friends did you have pop out of the wood works when they found out you had a trailer  :drink:
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #38 on: March 30, 2008, 08:26:43 PM »

:2vrolijk_21: Nice trailer Port, seems like those trailer are just like the bikes you have to add to them even if you had them built or built them the way you wanted it, there is always something else you find out you need or need to change.


If I do it again it will be a lot different, and I didn't think of a few things while I was having it built.


Is that a fire extinguisher by the door hehehe are you a fireman,


Yes it is and yes I am.
I only put it there though because I needed one on my little boat, and a two-pack was cheaper then
one  :2vrolijk_21:

Then spare tire inside ooohhhh ya,
the winch for the dead ones,
rhino lined that stuff is sweet,
they are just like the bikes a guy can just keep adding to them.


Spare tire actually turned out to be in the way, wish I had put it in the floor.
The winch is good
Rhino is good and expensive
Did you look close to the front of the trailer?
Battery charger 1800 watt inverter, 110 circuits, and more coming. Maybe air and awning this spring.


Tell me one thing how many friends did you have pop out of the wood works when they found out you had a trailer  :drink:


Actually only one, and it was my offer.

And when Howie broke down in my neck of the woods he didn't know I had the trailer
« Last Edit: March 30, 2008, 08:51:52 PM by porthole »
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old wrench

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #39 on: March 30, 2008, 08:37:40 PM »

Did you look close to the front of the trailer?
Battery charger 1800 watt inverter, 110 circuits, and more coming. Maybe air and awning this spring.


Actually only one, and it was my offer.

And when Howie broke down in my neck of the woods he didn't know I had a the trailer


I had one that we gened with air and a roll out awning, put fold down bunk beds in it. You could park the bikes under the awning at night and stay in the trailer, catch a camp ground with a shower. But my wifes ideal of roughin it is a black and white TV in the motel room.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #40 on: March 30, 2008, 08:52:42 PM »

I'd prefer a regular toy hauler, but in a pinch I could make do.
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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #41 on: March 31, 2008, 01:15:10 AM »

Port:

Thanks for sharing your insights on the trailer.  In your photo, I saw the inverter, winch, fire extinguisher, storage for unused straps, and tracks as well as the modified beavertail.  What else is on your front wall?

And if you were building a new trailer, what would you do different on your next trailer??

...mark
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #42 on: March 31, 2008, 10:34:10 AM »

Thanks for sharing your insights on the trailer.  In your photo, I saw the inverter, winch, fire extinguisher, storage for unused straps, and tracks as well as the modified beavertail.  What else is on your front wall?


I use this trailer as a small mobile office for my part time work too. Also a Dive support trailer if needed.
•   Marine 30 amp bulkhead connector.
•   The horizontal piece of aluminum angle on the right front is for a small table / desk
•   Marine VHF
•   Battery (C-cell) powered LED light next to door for when the main battery in switched off.
•   Battery selector switch. Three is a deep cycle battery, forget the size but it is larger then a group 27 and smaller then a 4D.
•   2/0 battery cables for batteries and inverter.
•   There is also 2/0 cables running from the switch to the front of the trailer with a connector that matches my truck, which has a 2/0 cable all the way to the battery.
•   There is a small rack next to the door to hold a SCUBA tank
•   12 volt cigar lighter outlets for phone chargers and as well as a charging station for marine VHF portables
•   I also put an electric jack on the front
•   Around the entire perimeter at the roof line is 110 rope light, good for general lighting but still need a task light (1 DC and 1AC fluorescent light)
•   Ever see those telescoping flag poles? There is a vertical mount on the front of the trailer for a flag pole.
•   There is also a flat panel heater mounted on the front wall.

I will be redoing all the electric stuff in the front. I am in the process of making a panel that will fit right in the forward V for all the breakers and misc stuff (DC & AC)
The marine battery charger really doesn’t cut it for what we do so I have a new RV style converter charge in the garage waiting to go in.
I use the inverter for “clean power” to use with a computer etc, so the 10 amp marine charger was not able to keep up with the demand. Some of the lights are 12 volt and some are 110.
There is also a Honda 3000is generator in the shed when needed.


And if you were building a new trailer, what would you do different on your next trailer??
 
This trailer is a “low profile” motorcycle trailer. Most of the trailers I looked at were available in a “low pro”. The advantage to the low-pro is obvious, they are lower. But most of them use torsion drop axles. That is good. Overall lower entry height and the better ride of the torsion axles. But, all the low-pros are only 5’6” inside.
Thule was the only manufacturer that offered to do an increase in height. Mine is a low-pro with an extra 6”. Even 6’ when you are using the trailer for other things ends up being a little low.
So:
•   14’ with a V instead of 12
•   Minimum of 7’ wide maybe even the full 8’ I don’t keep this in my garage.
•   6’6” interior height with a 6’ door (leaves room for an awning)
•   Still use a lowered platform if available
•   Stay with the all aluminum construction
•   Spare tire in the floor
•   Pre spec the wiring (outlets etc)
•   Recessed side lighting
•   Reinforced boxed frame in the roof for eventual AC installation
•   Stay with the “no rivet” sides
•   I thought about having the ALT recessed in the floor, but I really like the Rhinoliner.
•   There are other things but the next time I won’t be looking to have the trailer delivered in 6-8 weeks so I can give it more time to lay everything out.

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RJ749

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #43 on: March 31, 2008, 10:57:27 AM »

Duane, thanks for all the detail and the pics of the trailer.  Setting up my 8 X 24 for 6 bikes if they fit.  4 baggers and 2 DWG's.

Might have to buy a new 8 X 28 if they don't.  I'm about due for a new trailer anyway, my current Featherlite is looking a bit worse for wear with over 100k on it and a few dents and dings from the hired help cutting corners etc.

Just not sure I want the extra 4'.

Anyway, thanks again for the pics.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #44 on: March 31, 2008, 11:12:29 AM »

Setting up my 8 X 24 for 6 bikes if they fit.  4 baggers and 2 DWG's.

Might have to buy a new 8 X 28 if they don't.  I'm about due for a new trailer anyway, my current Featherlite is looking a bit worse for wear with over 100k on it and a few dents and dings from the hired help cutting corners etc.

Just not sure I want the extra 4'.



If you just use it for bikes you can get away with a lot fewer extras.

If you are going to set it up for 6, why not all dressers? My thoughts on my mine were originally for a dresser and something else. If I had thought 2 dressers from the beginning it would have been wider.

I'm guessing that 6 baggers in 24 feet might start to push the limit, but since yours is 8' wide couldn't you stagger them a bit?

Not the normal stagger but like this?

|      |
  |  |
|      |

A 28' is about 32' long, starts to make for a lot of trailer.

Although - if you have it built to order you could put a head and holding tank in, maybe a genset and some ...........................

Of course, everything is still dependent on your tow vehicle. I can pull a lot with mine, but I can't pull the 5th wheel I would like, and I like my truck, so the trailer will match the truck.

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MV 2013

1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it
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