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Author Topic: Tiedown Specs  (Read 11038 times)

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Serkcus

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Tiedown Specs
« on: March 27, 2008, 09:12:31 PM »

Having an enclosed trailer built. It's 7 X 12, with a V nose. I want to provide the builder with a floor plan so they can locate the tie down rings in the floor ( decided on no E track ) They will install a total of 8 flush mounted rings in the floor to my specs, as if I knew what I was doing.  :-\  My initial thought (2 bikes) is to place two at each side wall, one in line with the front edge of the front tire with the other about the same placement in relation to the rear tires. Left set will be at approximately 12 ft from rear door, while the right side (wall) set of two will be two feet further back than the opposite side. I think that this will work, but I have no good idea where to place the 4 centerline tie downs., essentially how for apart.? Hopefully, someone here has some valuable insight.
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rednectum

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2008, 07:06:15 AM »

mark floorplan on garage floor with chalk. place bikes and draw where chocks  and d-rings should go. remove bikes and take measurments.
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NukeIT

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2008, 07:10:15 AM »

mark floorplan on garage floor with chalk. place bikes and draw where chocks  and d-rings should go. remove bikes and take measurments.

I would do something similar. make sure to visual the lines that the tie-downs will follow so that they don't interfere with anything on either motorcycle....
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miker

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2008, 07:27:03 AM »

Don't forget to stagger each set of tie down points inside the trailer for extra room.
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LRebel

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2008, 11:18:58 AM »

I would absolutely $pend a few dollars more and add a WheelDock (or something comparable) for each bike.

http://wheeldock.com/
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miker

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2008, 11:53:49 AM »

I used the bike pros...They have been great so far.

http://www.rampconnection.com/page21.shtml
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resqdoc

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2008, 12:30:11 PM »

Completely agree with the above advice for a Wheel Dock, they recommend you place tie downs at the rear of the bike with the straps pulling forward slightly. This system has worked very well for me.

Best chock available period. It is also quick to remove and use when cleaning the bike, storing in the garage, etc.

A friend from Canada showed me a trick to place a D-ring directly behind the bike(s) rear tire. A single tie down run from the D-ring through the rear wheel and back to the tie-down, keeps the bike from moving side to side while the Wheel Dock keeps it upright and secure.

With one bike in the trailer I use the rings on the walls and two straps on the rear of the bike. With two bikes, I switch to the D-rings directly behind the bike tires (2' back, in the floor). This eliminates interference side to side with the other bike.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2008, 12:32:39 PM by resqdoc »
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2008, 01:18:43 PM »

I want to provide the builder with a floor plan so they can locate the tie down rings in the floor ( decided on no E track )


I would have the builder put the flush mounts in a bag and you decide after it is in your driveway.

Two (of many) things I did to my trailer after I got it.

1st, removed the recessed floor chocks and filled in the holes. I replaced the two recessed mounts with 3 Bike Pro floor plates (1 bike in the middle or 2 bikes staggered).

2nd, removed all the flush mount d-rings and installed aluminum aircraft track.


Your best bet would be to have two dressers available when you get the trailer. If you have two bike pro style chocks at the same time that would help.

Any of the ride on step off style chocks will be the way to go, no juggling with the bikes on a side stand.


« Last Edit: March 28, 2008, 01:27:59 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2008, 01:32:39 PM »

I just looked at the "Wheel Dock", similar to the Condor.

My preference was for the Bike Pro. Usually can get the chrome version with a plate for $150 or a little less on Ebay.I just like the Bike Pro more. Mackie Enterprises is the distributor I have used.
www.mackieenterprises.com, 888-411-7267 New Jersey

His stuff costs more at the shows then he sells it on eBay for.

I bought all my aluminum track and hardware from another guy that frequents the shows and is cheaper then Mackie. Plus he supplies the track with all the bolt down hardware.

I'll see if I can dig up his name.

Motorcycle Securing Systems. 800-750-0474, New Jersey, no web site.

This guy is a machinist and works out of garage, literally, I went there to pick up some 12' tracks.

Both of these outfits carry straps, loops, and assorted tie down hardware. Call and get their catalogs
« Last Edit: March 28, 2008, 01:39:24 PM by porthole »
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Talon

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2008, 01:38:09 PM »

Make sure the tiedown D-rings are tied into something more than the flooring, either a big plate under the flooring, or somehow connected to the metal frame. The might work ok for a while, but  if not properly tied into something, as the flooring gets old they could rip out!
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2008, 01:42:05 PM »

Make sure the tiedown D-rings are tied into something more than the flooring, either a big plate under the flooring, or somehow connected to the metal frame. The might work ok for a while, but  if not properly tied into something, as the flooring gets old they could rip out!


The better trailer guys only though bolt them in the cross members. If not you need to use the backing plates that are matched to the flush mounts.

Personally, I would only through bolt through the frame, forget the wood like Talon mentions.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2008, 01:43:06 PM »

Don't forget to stagger each set of tie down points inside the trailer for extra room.


This is a must if you ever plan to have two dressers in the box.
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Trapperdog

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2008, 04:08:45 PM »

We put 2 dressers in our toy hauler and fully agree with all the above. Make sure you plan, measure and triple check your placement of wheel docking system angle to the front D rings, especially if you have lowers as there can be little room to play with. Even with the bikes staggered, the 7 x 12 will get awfully small with the bikes in there and you may have to remove a saddle bag just to go front to back inside the trailer. Make sure you have plenty of tie downs and extra straps. You will find yourself getting very creative with them.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2008, 04:45:35 PM »

This is what my trailer looked like when I got it.

The recessed chocks are nice but it means you have to use a kickstand if you are by yourself.
With a lowered bike you have to lean the bike way over to the right to get the kickstand up, and since my trailer is only 6.5' wide that doesn't leave a lot of room. The bike almost will not sit upright in a recessed chock (lowered bike).

BTW 6.5' is the minimum for two dressers, 7' is just a little better.

The reason everyone is suggesting you place your items carefully is that it will be tight in the trailer. May as well drill all your holes once.

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Serkcus

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #14 on: March 29, 2008, 12:16:31 AM »

Thanks for all the replies, some great info here.  :) I'll muck (mock) up the garage floor this weekend as suggested.  ;D Biggest problem is that the Serk is still chillin in the dealers shop waiting road test after the gasket changes.  >:( Have to rely on moving the Sporty around so it can pretend to be both and just add some dimension to it.  ::)
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