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[Helijet]

 Was a nice day so decided to take my 2008 Ultra CVO ( 150 miles on the OD ) out for a tour. She started up right away, let her warm up for a minute then slowly drove away. My son and I had just reached the second intersection when we had to stop ( red light ). As we were stopped, I had both front and rear brakes held. I noticed that the rpm was around 3000 and would not come down AND the bike was wanting to move forward!! Yes, I had the clutch fully PULLED in. As the traffic started to move I gingerly let out the clutch and was prepared to use the kill switch if the bike started to get away. We got moving safely but No way....this was wrong!!

 Prompty headed to the local Harley shop and kept the bike running while I yelled at the lot boy to get a tech. The tech came out and we watched the rpm finally settle down to under 900 but the bike still wanted to move forward. We shut down the bike as he wanted to take a closer look. He got on and found the clutch did not have enough " let out " for his liking and felt that what may have happened was that the clutch was grabbing even when fully depressed and fooled the ecu into thinking that more rpm was needed to prevent stalling. Interesting..... he also found that the hydraulic clutch lines had air in it. Since getting the bike I could rarely get it into Neutral will running but I thought that this was just part of the break in. There were times I had to resort to shut off the ignition and then I could hit Neutral.

 So, after 15 minutes of tinkering in the back..my bike came out and the tech said she is good to go. Well, I can get the bike into Neutral now and after an hour ride the problem has not reoccured but I got to say.....that was a problem I have never run into in 15 years of riding! 

Your thoughts....

 Dean

[grc]

The clutch drag due to air in the lines is nothing new, many  of us had the same problem on earlier model years as well.  Looks like the MoCo still hasn't got their act together on the hydraulic clutch assembly process.

It's hard to figure how a dragging clutch would create a high hanging idle, but since your bike has the throttle by wire system I guess anything's possible.  I would be more inclined to believe there was an intermittent problem with the TBW system, since there have been a few reports of throttle grip sensor problems.  If it comes back, have the dealer check out the throttle sensor.

Jerry

[fj4069]

The clutch drag due to air in the lines is nothing new, many  of us had the same problem on earlier model years as well.  Looks like the MoCo still hasn't got their act together on the hydraulic clutch assembly process.

It's hard to figure how a dragging clutch would create a high hanging idle, but since your bike has the throttle by wire system I guess anything's possible.  I would be more inclined to believe there was an intermittent problem with the TBW system, since there have been a few reports of throttle grip sensor problems.  If it comes back, have the dealer check out the throttle sensor.

Jerry

ecm looks at vehicle speed vs engine load. felt load due to clutch and  no vehicle speed and kept idle up so as not to stall bike is my guess.

[napalm]

I HAD A SIMILIAR PROBLEM ON MY '07 seuc.....IDLE RPMS KEPT CLIMBING....DEALER FOUND THE BUTTERFLY VALVUE IN THE INTAKE WAS STICKING OPEN.

KEEP ANY EYE ON IT!!!

NAPALM

[rednectum]

havnt seen a DBW throttle body, does it still use IAC?

[old wrench]

havnt seen a DBW throttle body, does it still use IAC?

The one I worked on yesterday did and it had a little piece of mill chip under the seat, had 85 miles on it he didnt want to go back to the dealer, he had just rode it home from. Pulled cleaned and reinstalled worked fine.

I think some of the problems with the TBW or FBW which ever you want to call it is the rider, when you start the bike turn it on and let all the lights clear the ECM is finding its start set points and a fast flip of the switch and hit the start button before it can is not good. Keep your hand off the throttle while starting and while SHUTING down the bike, electronics are great but they can be a pain in the rear sometimes 

[resqdoc]

I experienced a hydraulic fluid leak due to a loose fitting when mine was new. I'd arrive at an intersection, squeeze in the clutch. The clutch wouldn't completely disengage. I'd have to grab both brakes, hold on tight until I could shut it off, to keep from being pushed out into the intersection.

I tightened the fitting, bled and refilled the system. No problems since. Spooky deal though!

[SPIDERMAN]

Sorry to hear of your problems, but a HUGE  for having the Kill Switch Front and center in your mind.

Please tell this story to all of your riding buddies and make a point of talking up the Kill Switch on the ready part

B B

[Helijet]

Thanks guys for all the input. I appreciate the knowledgeable and experienced feedback. We went out again today with no issues but I will keep an eye on both the clutch and throttle mechanisms. The kill switch now has a big red label plastered on it as well.

Ride safe
Dean

[Gecko]

I've had the "can't find neutral" thing since late last season; maybe it is air in the line.  Add that to the list of things that have gone wrong and are yet to do so on this disaster of a drive-train.  There isn't going to be a "110-inch" engine for the 110th anniversary models if this keeps up.

[old wrench]

I've had the "can't find neutral" thing since late last season; maybe it is air in the line.  Add that to the list of things that have gone wrong and are yet to do so on this disaster of a drive-train.  There isn't going to be a "110-inch" engine for the 110th anniversary models if this keeps up.

Air will work out eventualy, but you need to bleed it and make sure. To tight of a primary chain can cause it, even though HD has the auto adjuster on there bikes now 07 and 08s, I have heard of some that has to be reset. Another is to tight of drive belt, that needs to be checked because not only will it make it hard to find neutral it will also cause the needle bearing in your main drive gear to walk out, you will end up with a tranny oil leak, then its a full tear down on the tranny to pull the drive gear and install a new bearing set. So check the adjustment it just takes a sec,  a little loose is a lot better than a little tight. 

[SneakyPete]

Sorry to hear of your problems, but a HUGE  for having the Kill Switch Front and center in your mind.

Please tell this story to all of your riding buddies and make a point of talking up the Kill Switch on the ready part

B B

BB, thanks for reminding us of the importance of a kill switch.  I, like many others I suppose, leave our kill switch on and just use the battery switch to start and stop the bike.  Makes you forget you have the thing.  I think I'll go back to using it on a routine basis.  Thanks again

[naitram]

i use the kill switch everytim i shut the bike off, its second nature to hit it, ive heard too many stories of peopl getting hurt to want to have to think about where its is if i need it

[Capo]

I'm batting about .750 with the kill switch-heightening that awareness factor by 10!

[Fired00d]

I have always used the "kill" switch to turn my engine off, and remembered reading/hearing somewhere that the kill (engine off/run switch) should always be used to kill the engine. I just took a look in my Owners Manual and this is what they have...

ENGINE OFF/RUN SWITCH

The engine off/run is located on the right handlebar control group.

The engine off/run switch turns the engine ON or OFF, and should be used at all times to stop the engine, especially in an emergency.

1. To stop engine, push the engine off/run switch to position marked OFF.

2. Turn the the ignition/headlamp key switch to the OFF position.

Not sure the MoCo's reasoning, but from this incident it sure makes a good practice to be in/learn.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d