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[ultrafxr]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?

Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

[Chief]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?

Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

Jerry,

All of the normal culprits responsible for a wobble would normally be associated to some sort of dynamic action / reaction couple. The fact that you've got a low-speed problem, especially at parking lot speeds makes me immediately think tire problem. What you describe sounds exactly the type of result a bent rim on a car produces. At slow speeds, the bent rim is rolling slow enough that it can drive the side-to-side motion of the car in that familiar wiggle. When the speed picks up, it's rolling too fast to move that much mass, so it kind of goes away.

I would look for stuff like tread separation, bubble, wierd tread pattern or other problem with the tire or rim. I don't think you'd see those type of handling issues at that speed from worn parts that weren't worn when you took it in, and aren't even adjusted during the procedure of replacing a tire.

I'd take it back to the dealer and have them ride it. It would be hard to argue that you're trying to gain anything by having them replace a new tire.

Good luck.

[ultrafxr]

Jerry,

All of the normal culprits responsible for a wobble would normally be associated to some sort of dynamic action / reaction couple. The fact that you've got a low-speed problem, especially at parking lot speeds makes me immediately think tire problem. What you describe sounds exactly the type of result a bent rim on a car produces. At slow speeds, the bent rim is rolling slow enough that it can drive the side-to-side motion of the car in that familiar wiggle. When the speed picks up, it's rolling too fast to move that much mass, so it kind of goes away.

I would look for stuff like tread separation, bubble, wierd tread pattern or other problem with the tire or rim. I don't think you'd see those type of handling issues at that speed from worn parts that weren't worn when you took it in, and aren't even adjusted during the procedure of replacing a tire.

I'd take it back to the dealer and have them ride it. It would be hard to argue that you're trying to gain anything by having them replace a new tire.

Good luck.

Thanks Chuck.  I was thinking the same thing - bad tire - since it showed up immediately after tire change.  Do you have any info about the axle wrench not fitting with my Legends?

[Twolanerider]

The immediate before and after has to be the tell-tale Jerry.  Since you've checked assembly issues that would be part of that before and after it's not at all unfair to tell them you've got what is very likely a flaky tire.

[Chief]

Thanks Chuck.  I was thinking the same thing - bad tire - since it showed up immediately after tire change.  Do you have any info about the axle wrench not fitting with my Legends?

I can only imagine that the lower shock mount is larger diameter than the stock shocks so the ratchet mechanism hits. I use a 36mm socket which will have thinner walls than the ratchet wrench you've got. Of course using the socket means the right muffler has to come off to use it.

[Midnight Rider]

Jerry...unless you can find a crow's foot open ended wrench (I was unable to find one), you gotta take something off to use either a socket or the type you have.  Remove the lower shock bolt and swing it out of the way.

I'd say you've got a bad tire, or your rim got bent during installation of the new tire.  Even if you can't see anything on the outside of the tire, if the core is flawed, it could cause the problems you're describing.

[ultrafxr]

Jerry...unless you can find a crow's foot open ended wrench (I was unable to find one), you gotta take something off to use either a socket or the type you have.  Remove the lower shock bolt and swing it out of the way.

I'd say you've got a bad tire, or your rim got bent during installation of the new tire.  Even if you can't see anything on the outside of the tire, if the core is flawed, it could cause the problems you're describing.

Yeah I kinda figured that.  Got 36mm socket but this wrench said it would work without removing right muffler, lol, NOT.  Now I'm wondering if my socket will fit without removing the lower shock bolt.  Damn they do make it a pia to even do simple things.

[stekat]

Had rear tire replaced two weeks ago at dealer and immediately upon leaving dealer I noticed slight low speed wobble that was not there before tire change.  Got home and checked that tire was fully beaded, wheel aligned and axle nut tightened.  Every thing looked fine.  I've put 1,500 miles on new tire and problem still there - especially noticeable when turning from parking lot onto street and accelerating lightly.

Planned to redo the rear wheel torque procedure and bought rear axle 36mm nut ratchet wrench, Kastar p/n 9636 which is made for the baggers.  Wrench will not go on the axle nut because there is not enough space between the nut and the shock eye bolt.  Running Legends - are their eye bolts bigger?
Any help / thoughts apprecieted.  I know it could be swing arm bushings - neck bearings.  But the confusing thing it that it definitely was not there before the tire change and immediately began then.  Bike tracks and runs fine at speed - no wobble, no weave, no vibration.

I use an "Axle Nut Torque Adapter" PN HD- 47925.  It works great for either loosening the axle nut for belt adjustment or removing the nut completely.  Your torque wrench is unaffected as long as you keep the adapter at 90 deg. to the wrench.  Nothing need be removed from the bike.

[Midnight Rider]

Yeah I kinda figured that.  Got 36mm socket but this wrench said it would work without removing right muffler, lol, NOT.  Now I'm wondering if my socket will fit without removing the lower shock bolt.  Damn they do make it a pia to even do simple things.

Jerry...the wrench you have would work with the stock shocks, but the Legends are a bit "beefier" on the knuckle ends, so it won't fit.  I'd lots rather remove the one lower shock bolt than the exhaust pipe though!!  You might even get by if you just loosen both bolts and move the shock out just a bit...it only lacks a few of those red hairs from going over the nut.

[Boatman]

Damn they do make it a pia to even do simple things.

I've found working on mine that nothing is simple.  We give the tech's a hard time and sometimes they deserve it but the work can be a PIA as we know.

I, like others believe the tire is bad or they broke a belt installing it on the rim.

I have the Progressives with thicker shock eyes and the Kastar wrench will barely go on and only in one spot. I stll take the RH side muffler off to use the socket and antiseize the heck out of the muffler inlet and sand the pipe off good before the antiseize.  I bought a wrap strap to take the muffler off the next time.

[ultrafxr]

I use an "Axle Nut Torque Adapter" PN HD- 47925.  It works great for either loosening the axle nut for belt adjustment or removing the nut completely.  Your torque wrench is unaffected as long as you keep the adapter at 90 deg. to the wrench.  Nothing need be removed from the bike.

The Kastar is a rachet and that may make it larger on the od I would think.

[hogasm]

I also have the Kastar  9636 wrench and it will not fit on my bike with the stock shocks. I also have another ratcheting wrench that will not fit either.

The Kastar will fit on Kathy's Street Glide. I guess the swingarms were built on different jigs.

On my bike I use a 36mm socket and have to drop the right muffler.

[ultrafxr]

I also have the Kastar  9636 wrench and it will not fit on my bike with the stock shocks. I also have another ratcheting wrench that will not fit either.

The Kastar will fit on Kathy's Street Glide. I guess the swingarms were built on different jigs.

On my bike I use a 36mm socket and have to drop the right muffler.

Thanks hogasm.  Ain't that special - esp when they specifically say it will fit on FL models so you do not have to remove muffler.

[stekat]

The Kastar is a rachet and that may make it larger on the od I would think.

I measured the HD adapter for you at it's narrowest point (from the bottom of a point to the outside of the tool), it's 0.220".  Also the tool is 1/4" thick steel.  I put either a breaker or torque wrench on it at 90 deg. and find it very easy to use.  But I don't use progressives.  Stop by your dealer and ask to see their tool; see if it slips on the nut from underneath.

PS:  I just checked the clearance to the lower shock mount (stock shocks) with the tool on the axle nut; it's 0.115 (almost 1/8").

[ultrafxr]

I measured the HD adapter for you at it's narrowest point (from the bottom of a point to the outside of the tool), it's 0.220".  Also the tool is 1/4" thick steel.  I put either a breaker or torque wrench on it at 90 deg. and find it very easy to use.  But I don't use progressives.  Stop by your dealer and ask to see their tool; see if it slips on the nut from underneath.

PS:  I just checked the clearance to the lower shock mount (stock shocks) with the tool on the axle nut; it's 0.115 (almost 1/8").

Thanks.