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[jpb]

Does anyone know what the stock throttle body size on a 2007 Ultra Classic SE is (FLHTCUSE2) ?

I have read for hours and the choices are 46mm and 50mm.

Which is correct??

Thanks!

JPB

[Hoist!]

Does anyone know what the stock throttle body size on a 2007 Ultra Classic SE is (FLHTCUSE2) ?

I have read for hours and the choices are 46mm and 50mm.

Which is correct??

Thanks!

JPB

46 on the '07, and 50 on the '08's. But the '07 needs a 50 too!

Hoist!

[jpb]

46 on the '07, and 50 on the '08's. But the '07 needs a 50 too!

Hoist!

Thanks Hoist,

I've got the old reliable rear head gasket leak.  I've started the wheels in motion to help solve the problem at my own expense.  I'm going to do the following:

Axtell Cylinders 110
110 Plus Screaming Eagle Heads which are now with Dan Baisley for his Pro-Street head job
HP Inc. 51 MM throttle body with 1.730 intake ports
5.3 gram injectors
Dans geometry corrected roller rockers
Mike Stigman's Custom Domed pistons (coated with offset wrist pins) Also highlighted by Dan
R&R camplate
Woods TW408G cams modified for R&R camplate
Feuling Race Pump modified for use with R&R camplate
Feuling Stud & Head Bolt Kit
Feuling adjustable pushrods
Cometic Gaskets

Too bad about all the above, as I would have been happy as it was with no gasket leak !!

JPB

[Serkcus]

I'll send you a lifetime supply of head gaskets if you'll send me those parts.      Sounds like it's going to be a great build. Would look forward to hearing how it performs when done.

[Hoist!]

Thanks Hoist,

I've got the old reliable rear head gasket leak.  I've started the wheels in motion to help solve the problem at my own expense.  I'm going to do the following:

Axtell Cylinders 110
110 Plus Screaming Eagle Heads which are now with Dan Baisley for his Pro-Street head job
HP Inc. 51 MM throttle body with 1.730 intake ports
5.3 gram injectors
Dans geometry corrected roller rockers
Mike Stigman's Custom Domed pistons (coated with offset wrist pins) Also highlighted by Dan
R&R camplate
Woods TW408G cams modified for R&R camplate
Feuling Race Pump modified for use with R&R camplate
Feuling Stud & Head Bolt Kit
Feuling adjustable pushrods
Cometic Gaskets

Too bad about all the above, as I would have been happy as it was with no gasket leak !!

JPB

You put a nice package together. You might wanna think about a little bigger on the TB. Who matched up all these components? Getting the right combo designed is the key! It's all about the combination that gets it running righteous and makes ya smile!

You're going that far, why not do something with the bottom. If ya don't wanna spring for a new forged crank, send yours out and get it trued, balanced and welded. And do the Timken conversion at the same time. You're putting a lotta bucks into the top end. Another grand or so (with your crank) is a wise investment. Just my opinion. You're doing the right thing though! Good luck with your build.

Hoist!

[RedDevil]

You put a nice package together. You might wanna think about a little bigger on the TB. Who matched up all these components? Getting the right combo designed is the key! It's all about the combination that gets it running righteous and makes ya smile!

You're going that far, why not do something with the bottom. If ya don't wanna spring for a new forged crank, send yours out and get it trued, balanced and welded. And do the Timken conversion at the same time. You're putting a lotta bucks into the top end. Another grand or so (with your crank) is a wise investment. Just my opinion. You're doing the right thing though! Good luck with your build.

Hoist!

I agree with Howie.  If you're doing all of that to the top end, get that factory crank welded, trued, and do the Timken conversion.  I was talking to a performance tech the other day and he said he wouldn't do anything to a 110 to boost it's torque/hp until the factory crank is welded and trued.  He stated that the stock two-piece crank is not strong enough to handle much more torque.  That was disappointing to hear.  So it's one of those "pay me now, or pay me later" type things.  While you have the top-end all torn down, you might as well split the cases and have that crank taken care of too.  Do it right the first time....JMHO.

     

[mr_magoo]

A member here Shortblock Charlie will weld and true your crank for $75.00 which sounds like a good price.

[jpb]

Thanks guys for all the excellent advice.  I know you all are 100% about the crank and Timken conversion.  My runout without the camplate is .0012,  of course I know this can go sour quickly.

I just don't wont to yank the bottom end apart right now, even though I know it is the correct thing to do.

Discussions with Dan Baisley, Chaz and HP Inc, they felt that the 51mm throttle body would be the best choice.  My thinking was around 55mm but I don't know jack so I went with the experts advise.

I hope it all hangs together if I don't rag it out too often.

JPB 

[Rooster452]

Hoist is right, for a little bit more it's great insurance. Did what you are about to do and others have done. I let my dealer do the work to carry on the warranty. They did a similar build to a 110 (no bottom end mods) and after break in put it on the dyno & the bottom end grenaded! The dealer recommended doing the bottom end mods! It's cheap insurance

[Rooster]

Thanks guys for all the excellent advice.  I know you all are 100% about the crank and Timken conversion.  My runout without the camplate is .0012,  of course I know this can go sour quickly.

I just don't wont to yank the bottom end apart right now, even though I know it is the correct thing to do.

Discussions with Dan Baisley, Chaz and HP Inc, they felt that the 51mm throttle body would be the best choice.  My thinking was around 55mm but I don't know jack so I went with the experts advise.

I hope it all hangs together if I don't rag it out too often.

JPB 
I hope you have better luck with those pistons than I did. I had a similar build last summer with se 251 cams and those special pistons. compression was 10.5-1 had no bottom end power pinged bad and got real hot. Stegman spent a lot of time as well as several cams and pipe combo's, it now runs very well. Compression now 9.6-1 and much cooler temps. All my dyno's are on his website under Gaddis.

[jpb]

You put a nice package together. You might wanna think about a little bigger on the TB. Who matched up all these components? Getting the right combo designed is the key! It's all about the combination that gets it running righteous and makes ya smile!

You're going that far, why not do something with the bottom. If ya don't wanna spring for a new forged crank, send yours out and get it trued, balanced and welded. And do the Timken conversion at the same time. You're putting a lotta bucks into the top end. Another grand or so (with your crank) is a wise investment. Just my opinion. You're doing the right thing though! Good luck with your build.

Hoist!

Hoist,

Who do you recommend for the best new forged crank?  You got me thinking about changing it out.  Also who would you trust to do the Timken conversion too.

Rooster has me worried about my piston selection.  I will have to call Chaz, Dan and Mike tomorrow and express the concerns I've heard. 

Thanks,

JPB

[Hoist!]

Hoist,

Who do you recommend for the best new forged crank?  You got me thinking about changing it out.  Also who would you trust to do the Timken conversion too.

Rooster has me worried about my piston selection.  I will have to call Chaz, Dan and Mike tomorrow and express the concerns I've heard. 

Thanks,

JPB

I'm not really on the website right now, so don't tell nobody I answered you.

I used an S&S forged crank. Jims makes a Timen bearing kit that any competent engine builder can use without sending the cases out. Have your engine builder look into it. It'll be worth his investment in the tools for it if he plans on doing more than one job.

I'd also try to stay with flat top pistons and keep compression at or below 10:1. The 251 cams will work well with flat tops. Some of us are using Cyclerama CR 595 cams with good results. With the Timken and no-runout crank, I used a modified version of the CR595 with S&S gear drive, CP flat top pistons, and the head work by Cyclerama for a CR of 9.8:1. You'll also need a larger throttle body for a beefed up 110. These 110's really need to breathe. Big TB and big pipes! I'm thrilled with how mine's running. Need to raise the rev limiter now. This thing pulls like a mutha, and cuts out way to early at 5800RPM.

Start with a competent engine builder and get his advice. But make sure their competent. If they've never done a 110, go elsewhere. But if the guy knows his 110, go by his advice. I had a couple of hassles with Cyclerams, but Wes' design is top notch, and my package works great. Only had it over 120 as of now, but it's easily a 140-150 bike now! And it'll pull right up there too!

Good luck with your build. Read my Cybil II thread from the beginning in the SERK section, to see exactly what I did to my motor. Sadunbar used a smilar package with great results. Others now are getting fed up and taking matters into theirown hands. Been on HD's for too long to let the stock POS 110 bother me. Just get a real engine builder and make one yourself. The right way! After all, it ain't rocket science! FTF & FTW!!!

Hoist!