I just got a Craftsman motorcycle lift. I can't find any information on the proper lift points for the SERK. Looks like no matter where I place it, it's going to push the kick stand up. Am I right that that won't hurt anything. Thanks.
I made my low lift many years ago when they first came out. I was at a cycle show/swap and they wanted $379.95 for lifts that were not all that great. I figured I could do better than that, so I did.
Now you can by inexpensive lifts for under $100 that for the most part work pretty good.
You can see from the pictures that on the upper lift plates have gaps in them. I normally have towels on them to protect the frame, I never "finished" the lift by putting rubber on the lift pads, so the towels work.



On the new bike, the '08 SERK, it has the cross frame plate on the bottom under the pan that I try to put between the two angles on one of the pads and it sits down in the gap. This keeps it from twisting on the lift if I move the bike around. I have hard rubber swivel wheels on all four corners and can just spin the bike and lift in a circle, once I get the tires going in the correct direction.
I don't have means to tie a bike to this lift, but on either the old "76 FLH or the new SERK have I felt that I did not need to do that. My lift pads have quite a wide width and span a lot of frame to keep the bike balanced better.
I also have to keep the kick stand out or it will hit my lift pads. I've seen some of the lifts that have cradles on them that will lift right on the frame tubes. This will keep lift pads away from stuff and the kick stand. The only problem is that with both my bikes I have to stand the bike up straight to slide the bike lift under the bike. The SERK is a bit lower than the FLH, but both will work on my lift.
I think you just put it under the frame and see what you have based on your particular lift. I'd have a friend help you the first time to see where the best point of lift will be. I usually have to do this on the FLH. I lift it up just so the tires clear the floor and then try to rock the bike on the stand. If I need to I just lower it back down the move under the frame just an inch or so and lift again. This has worked great all through the tear down and rebuild. On the SERK I put one of the lips on that cross member between the rear lift pad angles and it always lifts great, first try.
Good luck, but I'm not sure I've helped you much.
