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[Mikko]

My 2007 FLHTCUSE2 blew yesterday oil from crank shaft sensor. The sensor was melted inside and a plastic piece about 5 mm was missing from the head revealing copper wire and magnet head. Before that engine started to ping and lost power. It also came very hot, oil temperature was 156 C (313 F) in a dipstick display.
Now the bike has 1900 km. Oil was changed 200 km ago.
Can this sensor itself have caused the problem by going broken, moved timing advanced and caused overheating? I noticed that there is a new part available, 32707-01C when mine is 32707-01B.

[DavidB]

My 2007 FLHTCUSE2 blew yesterday oil from crank shaft sensor. The sensor was melted inside and a plastic piece about 5 mm was missing from the head revealing copper wire and magnet head. Before that engine started to ping and lost power. It also came very hot, oil temperature was 156 C (313 F) in a dipstick display.
I have installed V&H ovals and  Screaming Eagle air filter. I have put a SERT map that was richest in a cd-rom (pipes and air filter). The bike has run quite well and only very slightly popped during decelaration, so I have been riding about 400 km without problems waiting for a cam change and dyno tuning. I would say that the map is almost perfect. Now the bike has 1900 km. Oil was changed 200 km ago.
Can this sensor itself have caused the problem by going broken, moved timing advanced and caused overheating? I noticed that there is a new part available, 32707-01C when mine is 32707-01B.

Sounds like it was rubbing the flywheel. Check the crank bearing .

[grc]

Others have had the same problem, and it was caused by a defective crank.  The sensor sits in close proximity to the left flywheel, and if the flywheel shifts and wobbles it will strike the sensor and wipe it out.  Depending on the extent of any internal damage, the repair can involve anything from just replacing the crankshaft assembly and sensor all the way to a complete replacement engine.

Jerry

[sedyna]

my 07 fxdse had the same exact problem... the crank had some runout and took out the oil pump... it pumped oil into the crankhalfs and left it there.. my old crank had a stain on it more than halfway up. my dealer found the problem when they pulled the sensor out. i got a whole new lower end (cases) new crank, oil pump, also upgraded the cam plate.. all on the moco... i sent the new crank out to darkhorse crankworks... cant twist it again

[sportygordy]

Join the chity crank club. This happend to me on two new engines, each less then 2000 miles. Didn't have a bike to ride 'at all' through summer of 2007. Reason's the MoCO got their POS back. Chity part for me, i was more then 200 miles away from home when it happend and since i installed after market exhaust and tuner no nearby HD dealers would take my bike. Had to tow the sucker back to my dealer. Good Luck,,,, Your troubles have just begun!!!!!

[Mikko]

I think I order Jims 131 with 62 mm throttle body and manifold right away. It is expensive but so is the bike and there are many summers to come. I could keep the H-D engine as a spare or sell it. What do you think, is 62 mm throttle body too big? Is it OK with SERT? How do the manual(?) compression releases work at Jims engine? Is it possible to have automatic ones that are reliable like S&S has?

[Twolanerider]

I think I order Jims 131 with 62 mm throttle body and manifold right away. It is expensive but so is the bike and there are many summers to come. I could keep the H-D engine as a spare or sell it. What do you think, is 62 mm throttle body too big? Is it OK with SERT? How do the manual(?) compression releases work at Jims engine? Is it possible to have automatic ones that are reliable like S&S has?

If the new engine has manual releases you need not even worry about the ACR's.  They can be easily done away with. 

So you'd get the 110 replaced under warranty if the crank has eaten itself?  Then order the Jim's and have the new 110 to sell or save?

[sportygordy]

I think I order Jims 131 with 62 mm throttle body and manifold right away. It is expensive but so is the bike and there are many summers to come. I could keep the H-D engine as a spare or sell it. What do you think, is 62 mm throttle body too big? Is it OK with SERT? How do the manual(?) compression releases work at Jims engine? Is it possible to have automatic ones that are reliable like S&S has?

YEA... that's your fix and 'my dream.' You have it nailed, 131 inch and the 62 mm throttle body. Not sure where you live, but before you dump your factory motor check with your states DMV regarding getting your new motor regestred with your bikes VIN. I know someone here in Calif that installed a JIMS 131 inch in his 2007 CVO. After he installed the new motor he went to DMV and told them his factory motor blew up and was unrepairable. DMV regestred his new motor to his bikes VIN no questions asked. That makes it a legal beagle. He just dumped his old 110" for 4K to some poor sole on Ebay.

If you don't register your motor to your bike keep your factory motor and carry the new motor's ownership slip that JIMS supply's.

Good Luck, Let us know how you like that set up when you getter done.

[Mikko]

I live in Finland, Europe and here we don't have annual check for motorcycles like we have for cars. I have been just riding with my V-Rod turbo even if it is illegal. Now they are very strict with Euronorm 3 which is something similar to your EPA. By the way, the FLHTCUSE2 costs here 77.500 USD so you would expect decent quality. The Finnish importer of course said that they have never heard of any problems and directed me to contact the closest H-D dealer. The dealer was busy but promised to call back...

[sportygordy]

By the way, the FLHTCUSE2 costs here 77.500 USD so you would expect decent quality. The Finnish importer of course said that they have never heard of any problems and directed me to contact the closest H-D dealer. The dealer was busy but promised to call back...

Don't matter where you buy your Harley, there all made with 'some' cheap Chinese castings.. no matter what. I would go the JIMs if you can swiing it. Hate to aske what your going to pay for that...

[Mikko]

Engine assembled black + diamond cut for fins + 62 mm throttle body w electricals + manifold w electronics, all including shipping and taxes 13.250 USD but it is only 8550 € which I consider acceptable. Maybe I could get 4000-4500 € for 110 motor but might be better keeping it in case annual check up comes and Jims is not ok.

[sedyna]

you guys have big dreams when you already have $27 grand into a bike...     just fix the 110 motor right, and save some serious ching for other toys

[sportygordy]

you guys have big dreams when you already have $27 grand into a bike...     just fix the 110 motor right, and save some serious ching for other toys

YEA,, but, but, but,, thats no fun.. come-on,, the biggest baddest cubic inch motor is what i call fun.. Other toys are gotten with pocket change. Besides, once you put in the Ching to fix the 110, you paid for that big bad 131 inch anyway.. and,, and,,, and,,,, you're not throwing away the Genie's money

[Mikko]

The dealer just called. They are still waiting for the new sensor. They will put it on and measure something (??). Only after that they will be considering dismantling anything. They say there have been before bikes with molten sensor but after changing that they have been OK. Do you have experience of any case that after the oil leak through crank sensor other new parts or new engine/crank have not been necessary?
I doubt this fix is not doing anything good based on what I have been reading here in the forum. If they say it is ok, I just have to ride as long as it lasts. The new Jims engine is on its' way but I have paid for a running, reliable motorcycle (the 2nd most expensive I know) and I will test it hard as long as Warranty is valid. The problem is that here in Finnish Lapland riding season is between May and September so two years warranty is soon gone, especially when the June is now gone in the workshop...the warranty for my bike has started July 12th 2007 here we don't have a possibility of extended warranty. I might be able to ride 5000 km before warranty is over. I also heard that the factory is still sending the gaskets without B or even A for leaking bikes as long as they have them in stock. I think this is criminal and this was the last Harley-Davidson I will ever buy.

[sportygordy]

The dealer just called. They are still waiting for the new sensor. They will put it on and measure something (??). Only after that they will be considering dismantling anything. They say there have been before bikes with molten sensor but after changing that they have been OK. Do you have experience of any case that after the oil leak through crank sensor other new parts or new engine/crank have not been necessary?
I doubt this fix is not doing anything good based on what I have been reading here in the forum. If they say it is ok, I just have to ride as long as it lasts. The new Jims engine is on its' way but I have paid for a running, reliable motorcycle (the 2nd most expensive I know) and I will test it hard as long as Warranty is valid. The problem is that here in Finnish Lapland riding season is between May and September so two years warranty is soon gone, especially when the June is now gone in the workshop...the warranty for my bike has started July 12th 2007 here we don't have a possibility of extended warranty. I might be able to ride 5000 km before warranty is over. I also heard that the factory is still sending the gaskets without B or even A for leaking bikes as long as they have them in stock. I think this is criminal and this was the last Harley-Davidson I will ever buy.

Did you tell them about your new Jims?? If so, I bet they are weaseling themselves out of a new motor you deserve. If your sensor got hot enough to melt, your engine is toast. And more then likely the crank is out of line or shifted. This happend twice on an 07 CVO Ultra i no longer have. Harley's protocol each time was to replace the motor. They didn't want the service department to tear into the bad motor period. If it was me, i would be demanding a new or completely rebuild motor.