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[DavidM831]

Ok, all you engine experts out there...
I have a 2008 Screamin Eagle Road King, Anniversary Edition with 1500 easy miles on it.
The dealer changed the cams to Woods TW7H with a +4 degree advance gear, adjustable pushrods, Bub 7 True Duals, Heavy Breather Intake and Filter, and the SE Race Tuner. I had another shop dyno the bike and it came out at 101 HP and 121 TQ peaking at 3000 rpm. (perfect for my riding style)
After having them replace one of the scratched heat shields on the driver's side, I brought the bike home (30 miles) with oil all over the transmission, the front cylinder and the rear cylinder about halfway down.
Calling the dealer, they picked it up and diagnosed two blown head gaskets (both the metal gaskets).

My questions to the group are:
1) I want some head work done while it is down, who do you all recommend?
2) Should I do the 113" piston swap at the same time? (the dealer tells me it is just swapping pistons and rings with no barrel work needed).
3) If I do the head work, should I also do the 58 mm throttle body, and have it all dynoed again to match it all up?

What else would you all recommend?

Thanks,
Dave

[Chief]

Ok, all you engine experts out there...
I have a 2008 Screamin Eagle Road King, Anniversary Edition with 1500 easy miles on it.
The dealer changed the cams to Woods TW7H with a +4 degree advance gear, adjustable pushrods, Bub 7 True Duals, Heavy Breather Intake and Filter, and the SE Race Tuner. I had another shop dyno the bike and it came out at 101 HP and 121 TQ peaking at 3000 rpm. (perfect for my riding style)
After having them replace one of the scratched heat shields on the driver's side, I brought the bike home (30 miles) with oil all over the transmission, the front cylinder and the rear cylinder about halfway down.
Calling the dealer, they picked it up and diagnosed two blown head gaskets (both the metal gaskets).

My questions to the group are:
1) I want some head work done while it is down, who do you all recommend?
2) Should I do the 113" piston swap at the same time? (the dealer tells me it is just swapping pistons and rings with no barrel work needed).
3) If I do the head work, should I also do the 58 mm throttle body, and have it all dynoed again to match it all up?

What else would you all recommend?

Thanks,
Dave

Find another dealer!

You can't move from a 110 to a 113 with just new pistons.

[Coyote.]

I wouldn't spend a penny on it if you are going to keep the same cylinders. Unless you want to get a new head gasket every oil change! 

[HogBreath]

Find another dealer!

You can't move from a 110 to a 113 with just new pistons.

According to my calculations, the 113 pistons lack 3 cubic inches of clearance going in the 110 barrels.

[HogBreath]

or is that 1-1/2 cubic inch per barrel?

[Chief]

The 110 barrels have a 4.000" bore. The 113 barrels have a 4.060" bore. Different barrels and also requires machining the case, which causes other problems with the 110 case.

The dealer should know this.

[DavidM831]

Jesus, You guys are really on top of this stuff huh?

I really appreciate all the input, as it gives me ammunition for the dealer, and I don't feel like such a dummy when I'm talking to them.

Any recommendations on who to do the headwork?

[sadunbar]

The 110 barrels have a 4.000" bore. The 113 barrels have a 4.060" bore. Different barrels and also requires machining the case, which causes other problems with the 110 case.

The dealer should know this.

And if you put the motor back together without replacing the cylinders with aftermarket, like Axtell, the odds you will be going thru this again are very good.

If you have your heads done, replace your stock cams with cams that match your headwork.  I used Wes Brown at Cycle Rama for heads and cams and am very satisfied.    There are many other good choices - if you read some of the twin cam section threads, you will find lots of options.  I installed an HPI 62mm throttle body and am happy with it also.

Whatever you do, do it as a matched package, done by a professional.  Sounds like your dealer may be a bit short on experience and knowledge based on his comments to you.

good luck

[DavidM831]

Thanks,
I do understand and agree with the cylinder replacements, but I paid good money for the extended warranty, and I want to make sure that whatever I do does not void that warranty.
There must be a way to do that and still have the engine produce good, dependable power without blowing the head gaskets every 1K miles and then having to invoke the lemon law in CA.

[grc]

Thanks,
I do understand and agree with the cylinder replacements, but I paid good money for the extended warranty, and I want to make sure that whatever I do does not void that warranty.
There must be a way to do that and still have the engine produce good, dependable power without blowing the head gaskets every 1K miles and then having to invoke the lemon law in CA.

I hate to tell you, but you already trashed the warranty when you did the cams and the SERT (at least the warranty on the engine).  You might successfully argue your case if you only have a SERT and you develop a head gasket failure or crank failure, since those are known issues.  Once you make internal mods, however, all bets are off.  Read the fine print on both the regular warranty and the extended service policy.

Jerry

[Fired00d]

Thanks,
I do understand and agree with the cylinder replacements, but I paid good money for the extended warranty, and I want to make sure that whatever I do does not void that warranty.
There must be a way to do that and still have the engine produce good, dependable power without blowing the head gaskets every 1K miles and then having to invoke the lemon law in CA.

The things in red below may have already voided your warranty (if you ask some dealers).....

Ok, all you engine experts out there...
I have a 2008 Screamin Eagle Road King, Anniversary Edition with 1500 easy miles on it.
The dealer changed the cams to Woods TW7H with a +4 degree advance gear, adjustable pushrods, Bub 7 True Duals, Heavy Breather Intake and Filter, and the SE Race Tuner. I had another shop dyno the bike and it came out at 101 HP and 121 TQ peaking at 3000 rpm. (perfect for my riding style)
After having them replace one of the scratched heat shields on the driver's side, I brought the bike home (30 miles) with oil all over the transmission, the front cylinder and the rear cylinder about halfway down.
Calling the dealer, they picked it up and diagnosed two blown head gaskets (both the metal gaskets).

My questions to the group are:
1) I want some head work done while it is down, who do you all recommend?
2) Should I do the 113" piston swap at the same time? (the dealer tells me it is just swapping pistons and rings with no barrel work needed).
3) If I do the head work, should I also do the 58 mm throttle body, and have it all dynoed again to match it all up?

What else would you all recommend?

Thanks,
Dave

The aftermarket parts will not be covered under the extended warranty, and even the MoCo parts you installed (SE Race Tuner) are for "Race Application" only. About the only dealer that might cover these mods (if they are one of the few decent ones around) will be the dealer that installed them. I would suggest you do what you want/need to do to your motor to make it run the way you want it, be reliable, and either cash the extended warranty in or just expect to use it for things you haven't modified. BTW I to have an extended warranty, but if I were to have problems with something pertaining to the mods that I've done more then likely I'd have my bike trailered/shipped back to my dealer so they could fix/repair it.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[DavidM831]

Yeah, I guess I wasn't clear...
The dealer did all the mods, and the same dealer is the one doing the repairs.
They purchased and installed the internal parts and have told me they are covered under both the regular and extended warranty.

[Coyote.]

David,

Hate to tell you this but you need to cash in the Ext Warranty and forget the factory one. You have an infamous 07/08 SE bike and the only way you are going to make it right is doing things to it that will void the warranties. Too many of us have tried the MOCO route and more are giving up each day. Sucks big time for sure. Of course, if you only ride it a few thou a year, you probably won't miss it every 5k or so. 

[hd-dude]

Yeah, I guess I wasn't clear...
The dealer did all the mods, and the same dealer is the one doing the repairs.
They purchased and installed the internal parts and have told me they are covered under both the regular and extended warranty.

David;

Is this San Jose Harley or House of Blunder? I would be afraid, Very afraid. As others have said you cannot do a 113 to this engine without case work. Come see me i am right up the road from you in Hayward. Hannans Machine here in Hayward is who i use for the head work. Top notch work!

I can get Barrels from Rev Performance for the 110" motors.

Jim

[grc]

Yeah, I guess I wasn't clear...
The dealer did all the mods, and the same dealer is the one doing the repairs.
They purchased and installed the internal parts and have told me they are covered under both the regular and extended warranty.

David, unless you got that in writing from your dealer I wouldn't place much faith in it.  Number one, the dealer does not have the authority to change the terms of the factory warranty.  Number two, he doesn't have the authority to change the terms of the ESP either.  So the only way he could "cover" this stuff is through fraudulent claims, or out of his own pocket.  And if he's the type to submit fraudulent claims, he's probably already on the MoCo's watch list.  

Jerry