Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[lvnlg]

My gauge read half full when I top off. It took 4.1 gallons! Guess I will try out the warranty. [smiley=mean.gif]

[shovelhead71]

just requires adjustment of the fuel sender float - pretty standard adjustment - I always do it anyhow - fill tank to the top - makes the float stick and cause it to overadjust - and then again - some are just wacked out of adjustment from MOCO - it is a warranty adjustment

[spydglide]

My gauge read half full when I top off. It took 4.1 gallons! Guess I will try out the warranty. [smiley=mean.gif]

Good luck!  I think that's about par for the course w/ these gas gauges.  But, they're looking good w/ the spun metal faces.   Har!    [smiley=verkleidung056.gif]     spyder

[lvnlg]

Thanks for the info. Is the adjustment something I can do myself or do I need a something something [smiley=confused.gif]

[shovelhead71]

if your bikes under base warranty - let the dealer do it - you already paid for it
if its under extended warranty - there is a $50 deductable - and its still less expensive to have them do it. it may take you several tries to get it right - but if you can explain to the service advisor exactly where it reads with however much fuel in the tank they can get it pretty close - see if he will allow you to talk & explain this to the tech before working on your bike - the gauge might even be the culprit

[roadrunner]

Mine has a similar problem, after the rebuild, the guage will read 1/3 tank and I'll put 4.3 gallons in the tank.  The manual says the tank is 5 gallons, a friend told me they hold 5.5 gallons.  Which is correct and what is considered full.  When I am doing highway riding I can get by with filling up to 1" from the neck, cant do that riding around town, spills out the overflow tube from leaning on the jiffy stand.  Thanks

[grc]

I fill mine just until the fuel reaches the little holes in the overflow, with the bike on the jiffy stand.  So far, no problem with overflowing after a fill-up.  By the way, I have put as much as 5.2 gallons in mine using the above method, so it obviously holds more than that.  As for the gauge, it is just as big a joke as the rest of the gauges.  Mine pegs on the full side for the first 50 miles, drops to 3/4 at 90 miles, 1/2 at 140 miles, 1/4 at 160 miles, and about 3/16 to 1/8 at 180 miles (4.8 gallons to fill).  I have never had the nerve to let the gauge actually touch empty, since this sucker outweighs me by about 640 lbs. and I'd rather not push it to the next gas station.  I plan to make a little modification to the gauge in the near future, and in the meantime I just use the trip odometer and ignore the gauge.

[lvnlg]

You know, at $30,000 plus you think the freaking gas gauge would work!!! Now I guess I will take to the dealer and pay $50.00 dolar deductible. I will hurt someone if they try that chit on me!!! They better just make it right......

[Twolanerider]

You know, at $30,000 plus you think the freaking gas gauge would work!!! Now I guess I will take to the dealer and pay $50.00 dolar deductible. I will hurt someone if they try that chit on me!!! They better just make it right......

I never have (and never would) measure fuel stops by a gas gauge on a motorcycle.  Perhaps it's just old habits not fading easily.  But it's much safer to just know how far I've gone.

[ggraves427]

I have had the dealer check the gas gauge one time. No help.  My other Harley gas gauges were the same way-useless. I use the odometer.  I ran out of gas one time on my SEEG at 170 miles.

[spydglide]

I think we all use the odometer, but why put all those purty gauges on there if they're useless?  Maybe just save the extra weight and leave 'em off if they're non-functional.   [smiley=furious.gif]   spyder

[BLM777]

Never have seen a HD fuel gauge that worked in 35+ bikes.  I get along well with the following routine...set odometer at fillup...stop at 150...rub feeling back into butt and legs...fillup and reset odometer...increase speed to make the next 150 go faster.   [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[Coolbreeze]

Exactly my method BLM...   Except I stop for a quick smoke or pit stop in the middle...  Makes me feel like I didn't miss something...

My gauge is very accurate by the way...   Doesn't move at all for the first 70-80 miles, and then arcs down to zero over the next 70-80 miles, and the bike goes veeerryy quiet at right around 160-170.  (I'm hoping that gets better as it breaks in and after I get a PCIII or RT on it...  )  But when the gauge says empty...  IT IS. [smiley=nervous.gif]

[Twolanerider]

Never have seen a HD fuel gauge that worked in 35+ bikes.  I get along well with the following routine...set odometer at fillup...stop at 150...rub feeling back into butt and legs...fillup and reset odometer...increase speed to make the next 150 go faster.   [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

Now that is frigging poetry man.  Tears.  Big old wet tears.

[grc]

Thanks for the info. Is the adjustment something I can do myself or do I need a something something [smiley=confused.gif]

The adjustment can be done by yourself by bleeding the pressure from the fuel line (pull fuel pump fuse and crank engine several times), then remove the "dash" and the canopy under it.  The tricky part is cutting the clamp on the fuel line to the pressure regulator without dropping pieces into the tank, and then having the ability to install a new clamp when you're finished.  Once the fuel line is removed and the fuel pump/regulator/sending unit assembly is removed, you can then bend the float rod to raise the float to lower the gauge reading.  Unfortunately, this is a trial and error method.  Also, it does nothing the fix the fact that the gauge is non-linear.  On previous bikes, I've done this to make the gauge read slightly above empty when it was time to go to reserve (carb bikes).  On this bike I plan to set it to about 1/8th with one gallon remaining.  

If you are more comfortable playing with wiring, it may also be possible to add a resistor into the circuit from the sending unit to the gauge to lower the readings.  Once again, it won't fix the non-linearity, but at least you can make the last 1/3 more accurate.  I'm planning to look into this once I get the electrical manual.