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[skreminegul07]

Really simple question.

What do you use to grease the fitting on the frame for the steering bearings on an FLH specifically a FLHR frame?

Besides grease 

Thanks

[GC_Super]

I went to the auto parts store and bought a 90 degree fitting so almost any grease gun will fit in that small space and work fine.  I did thjat after I paid for a 10 K service and discovered that they didn't even touch it. Should've known better. My bad. 

[spydglide]

I don't think they pump any grease into them from the factory.  They must just smear some on for pre-assembly and then forget to fill the neck up.....mine was 'empty'.....took a bunch to finely come out.  spyder

[grc]

I use a standard manual grease gun with a rubber hose and standard fitting.  It's a very tight fit, and you really need three hands since you need to hold the fitting on the zerk, but it will work.  I think the smart thing would be to change out the stock zerk for an angled one.  I've seen 45° and 90° zerks, either of which would be much better than the stock part.  I assume they must cost a penny or two more than the straight ones; otherwise I'm sure H-D would make this change in production.

Jerry

[hd-dude]

As others have stated, go to the local hardware or auto parts store and get a 45 or 90 degree fitting. Makes it a much easier job. All bikes that come throught my shop for service get fitted with one

[Spanish Flyer]

That grease fitting is designed (at least on my bike, an FXSTSSE2 08), to overfill the whole place and allow the grease to come out from the bottom and mess all my bike and jeans.
Before my first service (500 miles on my Springer), the grease was already oozing out and dripping, so the guy who put my bike together really made sure I wouldn't need any more grease for the entire life of my bike, if it managed to stay in there.....
Problem with having the grease nipple right in the middle is that in order to reach the top bearing you must fill the whole steering column and THAT grease does not hold in place.
The steering bearings are perfectly happy with a denser grease and better still if it contains Molybdenum; just smear the bearings with it before installing and forget about that lousy grease "thinggy". On all other bikes and as a bike mechanic I know that steering bearings are greased once with the proper grease when installed and that lasts for the whole life span of the bearings (30 - 50.000 miles). I must say however that not having protection seals on top or bottom of the steering column such as in my Springer will allow water to enter and attack bearings very rapidly, so I'm not quite sure what H-D had in mind when they put that grease nipple there and no seals to protect the bearings; at first I thought the assembly guy just forgot about them, but later I found out on the manual that there were no seals on that design 

What to do in my case? best thing would be to dismantle, clean and put the proper grease to each bearing, but I'm to lazy to get involved in such a task, maybe some time this coming winter...  In the mean time maybe H-D comes up with a better design  Knowing that Springer forks have "just" been invented  , we must allow H-D to make some improvements 

Spanish Flyer

[grc]

That grease fitting is designed (at least on my bike, an FXSTSSE2 08), to overfill the whole place and allow the grease to come out from the bottom and mess all my bike and jeans.
Before my first service (500 miles on my Springer), the grease was already oozing out and dripping, so the guy who put my bike together really made sure I wouldn't need any more grease for the entire life of my bike, if it managed to stay in there.....
Problem with having the grease nipple right in the middle is that in order to reach the top bearing you must fill the whole steering column and THAT grease does not hold in place.
The steering bearings are perfectly happy with a denser grease and better still if it contains Molybdenum; just smear the bearings with it before installing and forget about that lousy grease "thinggy". On all other bikes and as a bike mechanic I know that steering bearings are greased once with the proper grease when installed and that lasts for the whole life span of the bearings (30 - 50.000 miles). I must say however that not having protection seals on top or bottom of the steering column such as in my Springer will allow water to enter and attack bearings very rapidly, so I'm not quite sure what H-D had in mind when they put that grease nipple there and no seals to protect the bearings; at first I thought the assembly guy just forgot about them, but later I found out on the manual that there were no seals on that design 

What to do in my case? best thing would be to dismantle, clean and put the proper grease to each bearing, but I'm to lazy to get involved in such a task, maybe some time this coming winter...  In the mean time maybe H-D comes up with a better design  Knowing that Springer forks have "just" been invented  , we must allow H-D to make some improvements 

Spanish Flyer

I keep thinking/hoping that the same guy who finally convinced them to go to sealed wheel bearings after nearly 100 years would get around to mentioning the same idea for the steering head.  And I agree, filling the entire steering head (it almost takes an entire 14 oz. cartridge) is a huge waste and leads to a never-ending mess as the grease liquifies and drools.  I guess it would have been to much trouble to use two fittings, one at each bearing location, with a smaller grease "reservoir".  Oh well, maybe for the 150th anniversary.

Jerry

[tmitchellofpg]

What grease would you suggest to fill the cavity with?  I assume there are some grease types that would do the required job and seep out a lot less then others.
Tom

[hd-dude]

What grease would you suggest to fill the cavity with?  I assume there are some grease types that would do the required job and seep out a lot less then others.
Tom

Do not use the HD grease. It will run out. I use Belray waterproof bearing grease, it seems to hold up well.

[erniezap]

That grease fitting is designed (at least on my bike, an FXSTSSE2 08), to overfill the whole place and allow the grease to come out from the bottom and mess all my bike and jeans.
Before my first service (500 miles on my Springer), the grease was already oozing out and dripping, so the guy who put my bike together really made sure I wouldn't need any more grease for the entire life of my bike, if it managed to stay in there.....
Problem with having the grease nipple right in the middle is that in order to reach the top bearing you must fill the whole steering column and THAT grease does not hold in place.
The steering bearings are perfectly happy with a denser grease and better still if it contains Molybdenum; just smear the bearings with it before installing and forget about that lousy grease "thinggy". On all other bikes and as a bike mechanic I know that steering bearings are greased once with the proper grease when installed and that lasts for the whole life span of the bearings (30 - 50.000 miles). I must say however that not having protection seals on top or bottom of the steering column such as in my Springer will allow water to enter and attack bearings very rapidly, so I'm not quite sure what H-D had in mind when they put that grease nipple there and no seals to protect the bearings; at first I thought the assembly guy just forgot about them, but later I found out on the manual that there were no seals on that design 

What to do in my case? best thing would be to dismantle, clean and put the proper grease to each bearing, but I'm to lazy to get involved in such a task, maybe some time this coming winter...  In the mean time maybe H-D comes up with a better design  Knowing that Springer forks have "just" been invented  , we must allow H-D to make some improvements 

Spanish Flyer

30-50K for neck bearings?  First I've heard of that.  You recommend changing them?

[Dan_Lockwood]

What grease would you suggest to fill the cavity with?  I assume there are some grease types that would do the required job and seep out a lot less then others.
Tom

If I were to pack the head bearings, I would go to my drawer full of exotic greases.        I'd pick the front wheel bearing grease I used to use on my '62 SS.  This grease is for the old style drum Timken bearings and it's kind of stringy, almost like it has fibers of some sort in it.  This stuff has NEVER melted in the container on those very hot summer days.  I will say that when I was repacking the wheel bearings on the '62 SS, it was only about 7 years old.  So that might tell you a little about my age.  Sure wish I had that car back.  '62 SS 409/409 4spd.     

With this stuff it's in my opinion a once in a life pack job.

The only thing I can think of that would wear the head bearings is running dry, that would do it.  Or over time if they were loose they may beat divots in the races where the balls rest in their straight down the road position.  I've really only seen this when they were more or less dry.

Because these bearings do not roll around a full circle, as long as they are kept greased and adjusted, I see no reason they should wear out.

This of course is just my 2¢ worth of useless information. 

[skreminegul07]

BTW, A normal 90 degree Zerk fitting will not install because it will hit the lower tree on the way around while screwing it in.  A 45 degree will work.  I used to have two piece 90 degree so you install the first piece and then the other regular fitting screws into it for the 90 degree.

With the 45 degree, I was able to get the grease gun coupling on and shot the crap out of it with the pneumatic gun.  I never got anything to come out of the top or bottom.  Was it that empty?

Normally three seconds on a fitting and your like a horny gay penguin, blowing seals.

At the NAPA store I also saw that there exists different grease cartidges/tubs for Ford, GM and Chrystler.  Are they trying to sell grease guns?

 

[Chief]

BTW, A normal 90 degree Zerk fitting will not install because it will hit the lower tree on the way around while screwing it in.  A 45 degree will work.  I used to have two piece 90 degree so you install the first piece and then the other regular fitting screws into it for the 90 degree.

With the 45 degree, I was able to get the grease gun coupling on and shot the crap out of it with the pneumatic gun.  I never got anything to come out of the top or bottom.  Was it that empty?

Normally three seconds on a fitting and your like a horny gay penguin, blowing seals.

At the NAPA store I also saw that there exists different grease cartidges/tubs for Ford, GM and Chrystler.  Are they trying to sell grease guns?

 

At first I was saying "nuh uh", but then remembered that I installed mine before installing the forks. Can't you get enough clearance turning the bars full right?

[hdbrad03]

A normal 90 degree fitting usually comes in 2 pieces. Just take it apart and apply 1st piece into neck then screw 90 degree piece into first piece.

 
Brad

[Spanish Flyer]

Hi Ernie,
It is difficult to calculate how long the bearings last when they have no protection seals,  that's why my guess was 30 to 50.000 miles; one way or the other, it's easy to check (or relatively easy, depending on the bike). Just lift the motorcycle so the whole front end is in the air, then tighten the adjustment nut and counter nut till it feels slightly tight; when lose or too lose, if you center the wheel it will easily move from side to side hitting the side stops easily, while when slightly tight, you have to push the steering from side to side. Having done that, move the wheel from side to side and as you pass close to centering the wheel, if you notice the slightest notch in the center as if the steering wants to stay in that place, then you have discovered that your bearing races are notched or worn due to the extra work the races endure while your bike is running on a straight line. This means that the rollers have dug into the races and the whole set needs replacing. If you only replace the rollers, you will be in the exact same situation straight away. To do it properly you must remove the whole front end and install new races and bearings. The procedure is ver similar on all bikes and most of the times the complicated part comes when removing the races from the stem. The miles done before bearing replacement can vary a lot depending on the roads the bike is ridden and if they have been well maintained; sloppy or too tight bearings tend to get damaged sooner, so as the ones that lose their grease and rust. High pressure water guns are one of the worst enemies. That applies on all external bearings such as wheel bearings and swing arm bearings.

Spanish Flyer