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[chainring]

So the new Rineharts arrived today and i am planning on installing them tomorrow.  A couple of questions have popped up that i am hoping to get answered before i start.  First off i am not a total novice at wrenching but i have never done anything to a mororcycle before. 

First thing i noticed was that the exhaust did not come with the rings that hold the pipes to the cylinders.  I suppose i am to reuse the original ones.  This begs a question and thats if they are big enough to slide off the end of the pipes how do they hold them on.  I do not want to wait until i get into this to figure out the answer to that question. 

Next is the ports that the O2 sensors screw into are shorter than the ports on my original pipes.  Will this cause the o2 sensor to sit further into the pipe and create a problem?  Or does it not matter?

Lastly I am concerned about my tune.  I have the 110 and the screamin eagle heavy breather.  I added Xieds shortly after I bought it to get temps down by adding a little more fuel.  Is enough added to counter the lean condition I will probably exacerbate when I install the better flowing pipes?  I would hate to see temps go back up due to me leaning it out all over again. 

Maybe i am worrying too much but i would rather go into this well informed rather than get halfway done and be sorry i started.  Thanks for any input.

[103_RK]

So the new Rineharts arrived today and i am planning on installing them tomorrow.  A couple of questions have popped up that i am hoping to get answered before i start.  First off i am not a total novice at wrenching but i have never done anything to a mororcycle before. 

First thing i noticed was that the exhaust did not come with the rings that hold the pipes to the cylinders.  I suppose i am to reuse the original ones.  This begs a question and thats if they are big enough to slide off the end of the pipes how do they hold them on.  I do not want to wait until i get into this to figure out the answer to that question. 

Next is the ports that the O2 sensors screw into are shorter than the ports on my original pipes.  Will this cause the o2 sensor to sit further into the pipe and create a problem?  Or does it not matter?

Lastly I am concerned about my tune.  I have the 110 and the screamin eagle heavy breather.  I added Xieds shortly after I bought it to get temps down by adding a little more fuel.  Is enough added to counter the lean condition I will probably exacerbate when I install the better flowing pipes?  I would hate to see temps go back up due to me leaning it out all over again. 

Maybe i am worrying too much but i would rather go into this well informed rather than get halfway done and be sorry i started.  Thanks for any input.

You do reuse the snap rings and the part that bolts to the head (which is held in place by the snap rings).  You will more than likely be able to use the o2 sensors as-is or you can reroute them a little to get them to fit.  Take your time and you should have no problems with the install.  I had rineharts on my 03 SERK and didn't have any problems with the install.

[murphy]

Take your time... and NO BEER TILL AFTER INSTAL!!!!

[kojak]

Lastly I am concerned about my tune.  I have the 110 and the screamin eagle heavy breather.  I added Xieds shortly after I bought it to get temps down by adding a little more fuel.  Is enough added to counter the lean condition I will probably exacerbate when I install the better flowing pipes?  I would hate to see temps go back up due to me leaning it out all over again. 
Maybe i am worrying too much but i would rather go into this well informed rather than get halfway done and be sorry i started.  Thanks for any input.
[/quote]
Youre asking the right questions. Get a professional tune is the short answer. Changing an exhaust is a major deal as far as your engine is concerned. I would get a sert.

[grc]

The rings and flanges from the original pipes are reused on the new pipes.  If you have the same experience I've had with every pipe change I've ever done, you may want to stop at a dealer and pick up a couple new rings before you start, as well as a set of port gaskets.  The rings tend to get bent and distorted (and rusty), and new ones will be easier to work with.  And you will need a pair of snap ring pliers to spread them apart, unless your fingers are a lot tougher than mine.  Once you buy the new ones you will see what I mean.

When you're riding under closed loop conditions (normal operating temp, less than 50% throttle, less than approximately 4000 rpm.), your mixture will be adjusted automatically.  However, you will still need to have the mixture checked for open loop operation to make sure it's within safe parameters.  The best advice would be to have the bike tuned with a SERT or other device.  A good tune will eliminate any concerns about running too lean, popping on decel (which is a common problem when going to lower restriction pipes), and should also improve driveability and smoothness.    

Jerry

[chainring]

so this was not a fun day.  it seems as though there is more space between the flange and the port on the new pipes causing me not to have enough stud to work with.  torqued to the right spec there is not enough stud to even protrude from the nut once snugged up.  that was on the front.  the back i could never even get lined up due again to what i think are short studs.  is this common?  anyone ever have to change out to longer studs to get a set of pipes mounted?

[grc]

so this was not a fun day.  it seems as though there is more space between the flange and the port on the new pipes causing me not to have enough stud to work with.  torqued to the right spec there is not enough stud to even protrude from the nut once snugged up.  that was on the front.  the back i could never even get lined up due again to what i think are short studs.  is this common?  anyone ever have to change out to longer studs to get a set of pipes mounted?

Haven't personally run into this since I started buying new rings rather than reuse the old distorted ones.  The reason I say that is that I found when trying to use the old rings that they didn't want to lay into the groove in the flange, and if the ring doesn't fit into the flange properly it will hold it out too far.  Also, I'm assuming you are using new port gaskets???  Make certain the old ones are completely removed before installing the new ones.  Are you using the stock wedge shaped gaskets, or the flat SE version?  The wedge shaped gasket may cause the same problem if the new pipe diameter is a little larger than stock.

Jerry

[chainring]

gaskets are flat.  the ring stayed true when i took it off the old one but you are right about it not necessarily staying where it needs to when everything is getting manipulated into place.  if it wasn't laying where it was supposed to that definately could have contributed to the problem.  i will watch for that when i go out to try again today.  in the meantime i have snapped a couple pictures of the differences in the ends of the old and new pipes.  the old ones were sort of rounded to fit into the exhaust port and i never saw any old gasket when i took them off.  The new one is cut off straight without any rounding. 

[chainring]

that last one was what the original pipes looked like and here is what the new one looks like.  pardon me if this is all totally normal.  i have never worked on a motorcycle before and its not as easy as i found things working on cars. 

[Hoist!]

gaskets are flat.  the ring stayed true when i took it off the old one but you are right about it not necessarily staying where it needs to when everything is getting manipulated into place.  if it wasn't laying where it was supposed to that definately could have contributed to the problem.  i will watch for that when i go out to try again today.  in the meantime i have snapped a couple pictures of the differences in the ends of the old and new pipes.  the old ones were sort of rounded to fit into the exhaust port and i never saw any old gasket when i took them off.  The new one is cut off straight without any rounding. 

The stock HD gaskets get crushed in the exhaust outlet of the head. They won't just fall out normally. You'll have to pry them out. I use Novello Copper gaskets as they don't block any of the exhaust port. But you might still have your old gaskets stuck up in there. Just a thought. Check the heads closer.

Hoist!

[Midnight Rider]

The stock gaskets are conical in shape, so wedge themselves in there pretty tightly.  You'll likely have to use a small bladed screwdriver to pry them out and ensure the mating surface is clean and free of old gasket material.  Right now, by bet is that you've got the old gaskets sitting in the ports.  RH furnishes decent (SE type) gaskets with the pipes, and they will work fine if installed and tightened down properly, and evenly.

Working on exhaust systems is never fun, but just be methodical and you'll get it all lined up properly.  I would recommend high temp silicone when you slip the mufflers on the head pipes (it's red in color), and tighten the chit out of the muffler clamps...but don't strip them.  Also, make sure the clamps are in the right place, which would be about as far towards the head pipe as is possible.  They won't slip back on you if you follow those procedures.

If you've got those thingies that lie to the ECM and make the ratio 14.2, it should run fine, but if it was me, I'd get a tuning device on it and have it dynoed for decent fuel economy at cruising RPM's, and drivability, rather than trying to squeeze every last HP/TQ number out of it.

[110tHunDer]

 
The old gaskets are in there, caked with exhaust soot, so you cannot see them.  Like Terry said, get in there with a small screwdriver and pry part of it up to the point you can grab it with a needle nose pliers and then pull it out.  They have a wire mesh material in them, so are held together pretty good and should stand up to the plier removal process.  There shouldn't be much residue left when you pull them out.  Just clean the area where they seat with some WD-40 or brake cleaner, then put the new ones in.

I think the ones that come with the Rineharts are thinner than OEM, which is probably causing your problem with the flange nuts.  It will take some finesse to get the gaskets back in as they fit tight, so be patient, try to get them started in flush and they should go.

[chainring]

GENIUS!!!!!!  all of you, thank you very much.  Within 10 seconds of work with the small screwdriver i could see what eluded me all of yesterday.  I am so stoked i am going back out now and see if i will now be able to finish the job.  Here is a picture, worth a thousand words and maybe help some other dunce someday.  Thanks guys!

[chainring]

 

ok so i'm done.  sounds like a completely different animal.  much thanks to the input i had from this forum, i wouldn't have gotten this done without you guys.  thanks alot.  just FYI i have been in contact with Ed at the Dyno Difference in Dallas and we are gonna schedule a tune.  for now i am gonna go ride and have a few beers to celebrate when i get back.

[sadunbar]

ok so i'm done.  sounds like a completely different animal.  much thanks to the input i had from this forum, i wouldn't have gotten this done without you guys.  thanks alot.  just FYI i have been in contact with Ed at the Dyno Difference in Dallas and we are gonna schedule a tune.  for now i am gonna go ride and have a few beers to celebrate when i get back.

Your new pipes look great...  Good job sticking with it until you got her done!