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[HWYMAN1]

In December 07, I had cycle rama do an "ultimate street" upgrade. ( top end work). 100 miles after initial build, engine "seized". Now after 2000 more miles, did oil change and found metal particles in drained oil. Long and short, engine now non functional. Aside from the who did what, who is responsible for what, etc. ; how would you approach engine repair. Rebuild? New engine? Different bigger engine? Any opinions are appreciated!

[SEULTRA]

Well, I'd be having a serious conversation with Cyclerama for starters. It would go something like ... if this were your bike and this exact same thing happened to you, what would you think/do? Then ask them to make it right. Their response would dictate what (if any) further action you would take.
A fix? I'd first wait to see what Cyclerama does for you.
Good luck!

[HWYMAN1]

Well, I'd be having a serious conversation with Cyclerama for starters. It would go something like ... if this were your bike and this exact same thing happened to you, what would you think/do? Then ask them to make it right. Their response would dictate what (if any) further action you would take.
A fix? I'd first wait to see what Cyclerama does for you.
Good luck!

to some degree I agree. However, they have had two shots at making the engine "right" and failed. To use a medical analogy, if the eye surgeons performs cataract surgery and blinds you, do you return to him to do surgery on the other eye. I am waiting for their response and will consider what they say, but I am interested what others think about how to go about getting a safe, reliable engine. (obviously this isn't a good situation for me, as I have trekked 250 miles each way x 4 to get this done and it has not worked! ) If aside from how the engine failed, who did the work , etc. , what would someone do if their engine failed not under warranty?

[REGGAB]

to some degree I agree. However, they have had two shots at making the engine "right" and failed. To use a medical analogy, if the eye surgeons performs cataract surgery and blinds you, do you return to him to do surgery on the other eye. I am waiting for their response and will consider what they say, but I am interested what others think about how to go about getting a safe, reliable engine. (obviously this isn't a good situation for me, as I have trekked 250 miles each way x 4 to get this done and it has not worked! ) If aside from how the engine failed, who did the work , etc. , what would someone do if their engine failed not under warranty?

I'll just stick with the question you asked, since getting back on the highway is what matters most.

Interview engine builders.  Ask people who have had work done by those engine builders about their experiences.  Are they pleased with the work overall?  Did they experience any challenges in the process?  Were those challenges resolved to their satisfaction?  Does the work make them smile and give them that "I Love My Motorcycle" good feeling EVERY SINGLE TIME they get on it?  Are they concerned about engine failure ex-post-facto?  Naturally, the brooders (myself included) are going to worry obsessively over the later way more than the collective former.  I'm always listening for ANYTHING different, but to this day............almost 1 year and over 10K miles later.........my builder's work has remained solid and true and honest.........just like the builder who did the work.
You can even do it scientifically using a comparative analysis matrix if you choose to make an involved decision.  The point is, investigate all of your alternatives.  Poll members here who have had engine work performed with which they are happy.  Collect your data, and form it into usable information.  Then make a decision.

Best Blessings to you in your quest for torque and horsepower happiness!

[HWYMAN1]

Well after long and careful consideration, I replaced  the engine with a stock 103 again ($12k later back where I started).  AFter my recent experience I am reluctant to do anything to the engine for obvious reasons. Since all this has happened, obviously the way I "feel" about the bike is not the same. So, here is the big question? 1) keep the bike and get over it!, 2) trade in on 2009 SERG ( 110" engine scares me!), or 3) trade in on 2009 stock road glide with add on 103" upgrade and customize? ( I have carte blanche from the boss to do anything I want!) John

[hunter]

Well after long and careful consideration, I replaced  the engine with a stock 103 again ($12k later back where I started).  AFter my recent experience I am reluctant to do anything to the engine for obvious reasons. Since all this has happened, obviously the way I "feel" about the bike is not the same. So, here is the big question? 1) keep the bike and get over it!, 2) trade in on 2009 SERG ( 110" engine scares me!), or 3) trade in on 2009 stock road glide with add on 103" upgrade and customize? ( I have carte blanche from the boss to do anything I want!) John

All I can say is WOW ...   

[RedDevil]

Well after long and careful consideration, I replaced  the engine with a stock 103 again ($12k later back where I started).  AFter my recent experience I am reluctant to do anything to the engine for obvious reasons. Since all this has happened, obviously the way I "feel" about the bike is not the same. So, here is the big question? 1) keep the bike and get over it!, 2) trade in on 2009 SERG ( 110" engine scares me!), or 3) trade in on 2009 stock road glide with add on 103" upgrade and customize? ( I have carte blanche from the boss to do anything I want!) John

It sounds like you've got money to burn to do all what you've done so far.  If you still like the bike, spend the money and drop a JIMS 120 into it.  Reliable engine and a screamer to boot.  Ask Ken. 

   

[hunter]

It sounds like you've got money to burn to do all what you've done so far.  If you still like the bike, spend the money and drop a JIMS 120 into it.  Reliable engine and a screamer to boot.  Ask Ken. 

   

And later you can convert it to 131"   

[HWYMAN1]

My motorcycle fund was significantly reduced with all the problems with current motor. So whatever I do it can't be in the shop for any reason or I'll have stock engines for the rest of my life! While I would love to have a big Jim's engine, the three options I presented are my choices ( so my carte blanche is relative to those three choices!) Big motivation behind this is, is that my BSR has decided she wants her own bike ( after we saw ABS demo at Milwaukee she decided that safety feature made her comfortable to convert to FSR!). john

[tonysills]

My comments here may not necessarily help you out with your present situation, but I wanted to mention to those interested in doing engine work, they should consider the Harley dealer in Frederick, MD!
I took my brand new 05 SEEG to these folks and had them put in a Woods Bros. cam, clean and polished the valves, and HD race tuner. Their dyno showed 115 TQ and 111 HP!
I know it's not head work, but I got to say, I am impressed with how strong this motor is(103) and it's reliability!
Plus, as an added benefit, the work was done at the dealer, thus giving it the FULL backing of Harley! 19000 miles later, it's as strong as ever!
FWIW

[HWYMAN1]

Update on my continuing saga. Finally logged 500 miles on new engine. First problem was an ECM code. So had PCIII removed and re tuned with SERT. Better! Then after tuning noticed that under hard throttle twist oil pressure nose dived to 0-5 range. At idle fine, and at constant cruising speed fine. Took back to dealer. Ruled out bad oil pressure gauge, not oil filter, not oil cooler. So had them open up cam chest to check oil pump (also good excuse to put in new SE cam plate and oil pump, along with zippers 575 cam). On cruising, dyno, or idle, pressure fine. But back down dyno ramp and pressure again dropped. So waiting on wrench to check oil pan baffles. Anyone else experienced this ? John ( if they can figure it out I might actually get to ride my bike after almost 4 month lapse!)

[HWYMAN1]

Installed the SE oil pump/cam plate, zipper 575 GD cams.See attached dyno.
The oil pressure problem was an internal line during attachment of engine which was crimped by a non OEM line clamp. Now with great pressure readings!

[Unbalanced]

John,

Wow a year later, nice to see you got it all sorted out.  Your dyno sheet graph looks good glad you got it squared away.   

Can you elaborate now as to what happened with your old motor.  The wording seized scares me to death, but wondering how or what happened to the top end that caused the motor to seize, wondering if it turned out to be, a rod, bearing, piston, valve, crank or something else any insight would be appreciated as I have 2 103 engines and getting ready to build out the 2nd one.

Thanks in advance,

[HWYMAN1]

Harry,
Contrary to other opinions, the failure both times was related to front piston/cylinder issues. The exact issue ( clearance, alignement etc. still in debate) but created stress and ultimate failure of piston wrist pin ( then lots of metal shavings inside entire engine).  Currently I can't go into alot more detail, but it was a top end not a bottem end issue. Had I had it do all over again, I would have one of two ways: combo of better flow heads, axtel cylinders and pistons, and appropriate cams, but seeing as this with labor runs in the 5K, would have tried to get a Jim's 120 engine on sale some where  with six hours of labor and year warranty and repariable at any Harley dealer! John