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[GOMO]

I imagine that this may have been covered here once before, but since I am new to the board; I am just wondering if any of you have had any success in reducing some of the heat radiating from the SE 110? I have installed saddleshields, an aftermarket fan and the detachable lower fairing kit for those warm days. All have helped a little, but there is still certainly a good amount of heat there - especially in traffic.

[Keats]

I imagine that this may have been covered here once before, but since I am new to the board; I am just wondering if any of you have had any success in reducing some of the heat radiating from the SE 110? I have installed saddleshields, an aftermarket fan and the detachable lower fairing kit for those warm days. All have helped a little, but there is still certainly a good amount of heat there - especially in traffic.

Take a ride on a Boss Hoss it will change your frame of reference on what is "hot".

I no longer complain about the heat any longer after thinking my pants were on fire!

You have done all of the right things, but what is left to do is change the A/F ratio to rich as opposed to lean.  This is the last thing that helps

dual exhausts without the crossover also

[GOMO]

Take a ride on a Boss Hoss it will change your frame of reference on what is "hot".

I no longer complain about the heat any longer after thinking my pants were on fire!

You have done all of the right things, but what is left to do is change the A/F ratio to rich as opposed to lean.  This is the last thing that helps

dual exhausts without the crossover also

I've been looking into this plug & go approach http://www.nightrider.com/parts/ to keep things simple

[DCFIREMANN]

Go buy a fuel injection management program, change your exhaust and air cleaner. Throw some fuel and timing to it and it will be just fine.

TILL THE HEAD GASKET GIVES WAY!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[JHD06]

Installed on 2008 SEUC (lowers off) at Sturgis, in traffic, stop and go, bike seems cooler, idles better,  BUB 7 slip on's, SERT, AC.  A friend installed on his fatboy at the same time, he is also in agreement.  No temp meter to verify, another guy stated his bike dropped 60 degrees in running and talked his buddy's into installing on their bikes  Took 5 minutes to install.  have ridden 4,000 miles since, no problems.  Ultra seems to run cooler than 08 SERK, SERT, RHTD, AC, 251.

[HOGMIKE]

I've been looking into this plug & go approach http://www.nightrider.com/parts/ to keep things simple

Most people trying these resistors are having good luck with them. I assume you are talking about an '07 bagger??
If you wish more latitude in tuning, or going the dyno route a better alternative would be something like a power commander or SERT or similar to allow "dialing in" at all throttle settings/loads.
There are other posts on here to help you make an intelligent decision which way to go!
Hope this helps a bit.

[aushog]

I've been looking into this plug & go approach http://www.nightrider.com/parts/ to keep things simple

I have used them almost a year now, and they help a lot.

Pipes, tuners, and all that might be a better solution, but for my money i"m happy with the IED's.

[ice6900]

I have used them almost a year now, and they help a lot.

Pipes, tuners, and all that might be a better solution, but for my money i"m happy with the IED's.

I agree they will help a little with the heat, but doesnt solve the problem of retarded ignition, go 2 a reputable tuner and get a sert or power commamder and get it dynoèd to acheive better performance result.

[GOMO]

After taking in the comments here and from a few others, I think I'll look into doing the SERT, new air intake and pipes (and get things dyno'd) over the winter months. At this point I might be looking at a set of True Duals.

[skyhook]

I agree that the timing is a big issue also...had my motor tuned last week and it made best power and no ping with +8 in all cells 60% to 100% throttle ( power commander )...almost every cell on the map, even at low rpm, high load, has added timing

[vagabond6542]

What ever you do, get your dealerships OK on it. Especially if there are warranty questions. H-D has made the first two years sacred for no mod's. Just a thought.

But you could try running a colder plug to drop the heat.

[grc]

What ever you do, get your dealerships OK on it. Especially if there are warranty questions. H-D has made the first two years sacred for no mod's. Just a thought.

But you could try running a colder plug to drop the heat.

Sorry vagabond, but a "colder" plug doesn't reduce the operating temperature of the engine.  A "colder" plug transfers heat more rapidly to the cylinder head in order to keep the electrodes in the preferred temperature range and prevent fouling at one extreme and preignition at the other.

If you want to reduce actual engine temps, find a way to pass more air over the cooling fins, or add more fuel to the mixture.

Jerry

[GOMO]

What ever you do, get your dealerships OK on it. Especially if there are warranty questions. H-D has made the first two years sacred for no mod's. Just a thought.

But you could try running a colder plug to drop the heat.

With more and more input from folks, the way to seems to be to install what H-D will OK without a warranty void. I would hate to install something and they tell me whatever problem may come up is no longer covered because I added this or that.

[grc]

With more and more input from folks, the way to seems to be to install what H-D will OK without a warranty void. I would hate to install something and they tell me whatever problem may come up is no longer covered because I added this or that.

If the warranty is important to you and you don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about your dealer, by all means go with something that can be easily undone.  The Nightrider device would definitely be an improvement over stock, but is limited to increasing fuel in closed loop mode.  Next step up would be something like a Power Commander with O² sensor eliminators.  This allows much more control of both fuel and timing, and can also be quickly removed if necessary for warranty considerations.

Jerry

[vagabond6542]

Sorry vagabond, but a "colder" plug doesn't reduce the operating temperature of the engine.  A "colder" plug transfers heat more rapidly to the cylinder head in order to keep the electrodes in the preferred temperature range and prevent fouling at one extreme and preignition at the other.
If you want to reduce actual engine temps, find a way to pass more air over the cooling fins, or add more fuel to the mixture.

Jerry

You are correct in your statement, but, the bigger firing chamber will cool down the head due to more fuel/air mixture in the chamber on every intake stroke. This will knock the temp down.  When anyone, who does AF changes, knows that the more fuel, the more the engine cools. The Plug is the hottest point in the head.
This can be hold as truth with a gasoline engine. Diesels are a different story.
George