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[sadunbar]

Wildrat
           1st off, you have my sympathy for your disbility. I am in a similar situation having been forced into retirement by physical issues. I just turned 55 and have seen my body go from being able to put  700 miles a day on a bike to being lucky to put in 200. I am sympatico amigo believe me.

2nd, your post above. The only thing I see you doing performance wise is adding a different cam. I'm sure the other members will correct me if I'm wrong, but the cams you can drop into a CVO motor without doing head work are not torque producing cams. They add some HP at the upper end of the RPM range. I would suggest you re-think your position and have your heads worked and install a set of cams intended to work in conjunction with the work done to your heads to produce more torque. I personally prefer Dave Mackie Engineering for this type of set-up. You can call DME and speak with Dave Mackie yourself. The phone number is on their website. There are many many other shops doing top shelf work on heads and they will have their own recommendations on cams. I strongly urge you to look into having your heads re-worked. Price wise, you're talking another $1,000 but it's money very well spent.

Just my $0.02
                     B B

Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque!   

[SBB]

Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque!   

Gotta add to that Scott.


Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun! 

[Boatman]

Do as HML (Henry) stated and get new lifters.  Don't put old lifters on new cams.  (Fueling, S&S, or HD).

Make sure the 510 gear drive cams you order come with the gears (I thought you bought the gears in a seperate kit).  The 510's work well with your stock heads per S&S.


I have the S&S pushrods, but if I were doing it again, I would buy the new SE HD tapered pushrods.

Lastly, Mark at M&M can also sell you the HD SE cam plate, oil pump, and tapered pushrods at least 15% off list.

He doesn't have this stuff in stock but
 

can get it in 7-10 days to you.  Tell him what you need for your 06 88 Streetglide and he will look it up and get it.
 

[sadunbar]

Gotta add to that Scott.


Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun! 

Ahhhhhhh....very true.......

[Wildrat]

I wasn't going to reuse the lifters, just go back with new HD lifters.

Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun!
Money= Independently wealthy thanks to disability checks from the man, I guess it's a man?
Cams = 510G included in the S&S Gear Drive Kit. Cams are fairly cheap, can upgrade them when top end work is done.
Heads= Do that when I do the top end
Throttle Body= Will be done when I tell her, her bike would work better with a larger throttle body. She gets one, I get one by default.
Air Cleaner= Doherty Power Pacc Billet with power vents A/C, already installed.
Exhaust= Bassani Power Curve exhaust with Megaphone muffs, already installed.
It's getting there one of these days.

[REGGAB]

Gotta add to that Scott.


Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun! 

Whew.....Chip you nailed that one down pretty square.  First one is already happened.  The next four are present and accounted for.  Waiting on the exhaust.  Hopefully we'll get to the "fun" before long.

But that first one.......WOW.........that was rough.   

[Wildrat]

Lying bed last night I remembered SpiderMan. My thoughts are with you too man. Yep, got hit with this when I was 42, now I'm 50 and it's not any easier. The first week was OK being off work, but it's been boring ever sense, except when I'm on a ride or doing something I am not suppose to do like this work on the wife's bike. A couple of weeks ago she got an exhaust leak on the front cyl and it took me almost a week to get it fixed. Like I said I'm slow but sure and hurt like heck at the end of a day. I have a radio hobby also and have not been on air for almost 2 years now. I decided to build a room in the garage for my radios, computers, work bench (electronics). It's been being built for about a year, it's close though. I will soon be able to have all my toys in one area, my tools, my bikes, my radios, computers, electronics, reloading equip etc. etc., and it's air conditioned. It'll be fun when done and I will have some where to hibernate.
Well, I'm finalizing my shopping list, so maybe parts will be ordered today or tomorrow. Tools have been sent also, glad George is on top of that stuff.

[Talon]

If you go gears you need to have the crank run out checked first, so before ordering you should have this done.

regardless of that you finally decide on, if your not really wanting to do this yourself, you might check some local independent shops, talk to some other riders that have had work done in your area, you might find someone to do it cheaper.

[Wildrat]

I like doing this stuff, it's mechanical, oily, frustrating at times but the satisfaction of completing the job is better than any drug.
I will check the crank runout.

[meanbean]

This is what I have come up with for my wife's 06 Street Glide, and mine soon, maybe right after hers.
If you see something questionable please tell me.

S&S 510G Gear Drive Camshaft Kit # 49-9470 M&M
S&S Adjustable Push Rod Kit # 49-9961 M&M
S&S Cam Install Kit # 49-9680 M&M
Fueling Press. Relief Spring # 49-5201 M&M
SE Cam Plate and Oil Pump # 25283-07 HD Dealership

I do not have lifters listed because I was told by someone that HD lifters are Good. If you dis-agree please tell me why, and a recommendation.

Thank You all for your Patience and your help. I have not regretted being a member of this forum. I was/am a member of another forum I will not mention and I never got a straight answer. I only regret not finding this site two years ago.

 2 cents from a new guy here............

I like the S&S gears, I ran them in my TC88. Check your shaft run out, if it's more than .0025 - .003, stick with the chain.
I've used the SE adjustable rods, never had a problem with them. Someone told me the SE tubes were a thicker gauge than the S&S's but I don't know that for a fact and I've never ran the S&S's in a motor.
I don't know what a cam installation kit is. What is it, a cam chest gasket? I've used the oven / freezer and arbor press method of gear drive cam installation and it works fine.
There are many expensive cam plates out there, but I,ve never ran one. I never had any problems with the stock plate.
I never used an SE oil pump but I have used Fueling oil pumps and they are good, well made and get 40 psi at 3000 rpm.

Like I said, just 2 cents from the new guy.

[Wildrat]

10-4, the cam plate and oil pump come together from Hardly a Davidson. The cam install kit is incorporated in the S&S gear drive kit, it's the gasket and couple other things. I have a friend with a machine shop and he is going to either let me do it or he will do it himself. When I built auto engines I would use the oven frezzer method also.
Thanks for your input! Parts on the way.

[meanbean]

10-4, the cam plate and oil pump come together from Hardly a Davidson. The cam install kit is incorporated in the S&S gear drive kit, it's the gasket and couple other things. I have a friend with a machine shop and he is going to either let me do it or he will do it himself. When I built auto engines I would use the oven frezzer method also.
Thanks for your input! Parts on the way.

Good luck with your build, post up on the progression.

A friend with a machine shop is a good friend

[Wildrat]

I have all my small parts now, and the lift is setup. All I need now is for the parts I ordered from M&M to show up. They collected the money so I would hope to hear something from Mark soon. I think I will send him an email to see what the stat is. I ordered some Magnecor wires today for the two beast. Hey, that brings up another question.
Do any of you have a different way of removing the connecting line in the front, or do ya just drain the tank, cut the hose and put a new piece of hose on and clamp it?

[hd-dude]

I have all my small parts now, and the lift is setup. All I need now is for the parts I ordered from M&M to show up. They collected the money so I would hope to hear something from Mark soon. I think I will send him an email to see what the stat is. I ordered some Magnecor wires today for the two beast. Hey, that brings up another question.
Do any of you have a different way of removing the connecting line in the front, or do ya just drain the tank, cut the hose and put a new piece of hose on and clamp it?

Assuming you mean the fuel tank? Cut the clamp with a heavy wire cutter and remove it, then a new clamp and your good to go...

But......why are you pulling the fuel tank? Just cut the old pushrods out with bolt cutters. Just make sure the cam is on the base (valve closed, lifter down) before cutting........This will save you a couple hours of labor and gaskets for the rockers. Also depending on what push rods you aquired you may need different push rods tubes to make the adjustment much easier. I like the new SE tapered. They come with the new tubes and new o-rings.

[Talon]

Wildrat, you might just want to run thru this link below, gives you a step by step on changing the cams using adjustable push rods like Jim is talking about. I would use new lifters

Craig

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage1.htm